[xrad]

From other post, much K+N /air filter discussion....So how about for the dirt from the intake that gets by the rings?? What is the best oil filter...?

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[PhilG968]

I use the K&N HP 4001 Synthetic.
Very pleased, don't see any reason to change.

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[PorscheDude]

I just got a Canton.
Although I have not installed it yet.

I bought a case of purolators (on eBay for $40) for my 944 about 6 years ago,
which i am still using in the 968.

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[barth7]

I have always used the Mahle, but have though many time about switching to Canton due to the mess. 180k+ miles on mine with no issues, so maybe I need to stay the course.

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[Scott Collins]

I have used the Mahle. I have used the K&N, which I really liked because of the easy way to get a socket on the top and just spin it right off.

Just installed a Canton and did the first oil change at RS Barn. Very easy to install and no problems that I could detect with oil pressure or filtering. How would I know anyway? Car is running better than ever. Small problem with the Canton system is that in my case, two wrenches had to be used to get it off because the turning the top was also turning the cylinder. But at RS Barn they have such tools, and it was easy. If I had tried to do this at home, I would have been without the proper wrench and extension to hold the cylinder while turning the top against it. Once this was done, and the top was off, it was a snap. Just take out the old filter element and drop in a new one and screw the top back on. No more pint of old oil getting all over everything. Nice.

Ordering new elements was easy - just called Canton and got new filters in the mail two days later. I guess they are about the same price as new K &N's so I am not going to save money, but I will have a cleaner job and will throw less product out to the landfill.

I will leave judgement about filtering capability to the experts. But outside of that, I will say +1 on the Canton, so far.

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[bob blackwell]

Another satisfied Canton Mecca customer. Much neater job of changing the oil filter. I have not had any problem with the cylinder turning when I unscrew the top, the top doesn't need to be tightened down with a lot of force, just snug enough to prevent leaks. I am sure that all of the oil filter elements do a good job of filtering the oil. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[flash]

i read an article a while back that showed the K&N filtering down to something like 11 microns, and the mahle not far behind it - the canton filters down to 8 microns

here is a link to the thread about the canton filter:

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...9&hl=canton

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[xrad]

I assume that there are more holes hiding under some type of rubber flap at the bottom of the Canton aluminum cylinder?

Are the cartridges easy to get?

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[flash]

easy yes - call them and they send them

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[stewhatch]

I always buy a new filter from the dealer - I think it's $13 + change - is that a Mahle? It is black and has "Porsche" script on the filter. I heard somewhere that some filters have a check valve built in to prohibit oil from draining from the filter after you shut down. Is that true and do all 968 filters have this? Or is it just a few "premium" filters that have this feature?

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[PorscheDude]

I read somewhere that some filter do not have the anti-drain back feature.
Just don't remember which ones.

I will try a get a few pics of my canton before I install it.

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[flash]

there are two schools of thought about oil left in the filter - it is somewhat complex, and dependent on a number of factors:

1 - this oil provides a pre-lube of sorts upon startup - the idea is that this oil will find its way to the bearings while awaiting the buildup of pressure

2- this oil provides a pressure block against flow, which must be overcome before pressure can build, by essentially having to "push" that oil and the air between the oil in the filter and the sump out into the sump and thereby bleed the system - this can mean a few seconds of nothing but air at your bearings

which one is correct is dependent upon the type of system, where the pump is located, and how the pickup point is oriented

some of the origin of school #1, as applied to this engine, is due to the use of a filter designed for a different type of oiling system, but chosen to avoid a special and more expensive design of filter - it works well enough for the anticipated lifespan of the engine, so a new design is not justified

the filter on this engine is after the pump - this means that the pump, which cannot build pressure alone, must overcome the volume of oil in the filter before it can start drawing the oil from the sump and begin building pressure

with an anti-drain back valve, the system must also build enough pressure to open that valve - this requires the engine to be running - you can see this by trying to turn the engine with the coil disconnected - on other cars with a different design, you will see oil pressure build - on this design, it does not happen - that means that the engine must spin without oil in the system until it can build enough pressure to open the valve and move the oil in the filter - this generally isn't a real problem, since the rods splash down into the sump and there are squirters as well that push residual oil around - porsche has always had a different idea than most about how to oil engines, and consequently also have larger sumps than most to facilitate that process

the only evidence i have that the canton improves things is that i have seen pressure build faster with the canton than with the oem filter - this could be a function of the improved flow, or it could be a function of the reduction in back head pressure of the filter-resident oil - i would have to do more testing on the system to determine for sure how it works

for now, i am happy and have seen no signs of any kind of wear - at 48k miles i am running at or over 5 bar hot at 3k and 2.5 hot at idle - no signs of bearing wear in the sump

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[jfrahm]

I use Purolator, Mahle or Mann oil filters and have had no problems. The K&N oil filter is quite stellar but I generally just get a filter from Advance Auto or add one to a big parts order from a mail order place, and so I get the commonly available options.

The 928 oil filter some people have put on the 944/968 motors is the one that might not have an anti-drainback valve. The 928 application does not invert the filter and as such it is always full, so some 928 filters do not have the valve. The 944/968 inverted filter can drain out into the pan after shutdown if it had a non-working anti-drainback valve, so if you fit a 928 filter you might get dry starts while the filter refills with oil.

The 928 filter is bigger, that is what attracted some people to it. IMO not a good choice.

I have not fooled around trying to run a different oil filter on the 968. Finding other compatible filters is sometimes not a bad thing, for example I run a Motorcraft FL-100S oil filter on my 4runner, that is the stock filter for a bunch of Ford engines but is bigger and easier to find than the Toyota filter, plus the Motorcraft 'S' designation indicates it has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Good filter, and I can get it at Wal Mart when I buy my oil. I have not looked to see if there is a possible interchange like that for the 968 and frankly I am not inclined to blaze that trail. The Ford filter on the Toy motor had been done before by others for years, so I figured it was safe as no one has reported a problem with that fitment.

-Joel.

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[flash]

i think somehow my point was missed

due to the design, and the filter being downstream of the pump, it appears that having a full filter in our car makes for more of a "dry start" than an empty one, because it must first push that oil out, as well as the air in the system, and then open the valve, before it can build pressure and circulate oil

as i said, it is evidenced by the fact that you can spin the engine all day with the coil disconnected and it won't build pressure - i was actually quite stunned by this, as a standard thing i would do with other cars that sat for long periods was to pull the plugs, disconnect the coil, and then spin up pressure, before trying to start the engine - i can't do that with this one - that is probably why the sumps are so big - they rely on the big bath effect to lube things up during startup

there is likely a tradeoff of resistance due to the oil sitting in the filter, and that same oil going through the system, against not having that resistance, but not having any oil running through until the engine starts

probably 6 of 1 or a half dozen of the other - all i know is i see pressure sooner with the canton than i did with the oem style

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