[cg_weinert@yahoo.com]

HI All,

I am amidst camshaft/tensioner guide replacement on our '94 with 47K miles (only 3-4 teeth left on each cam! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] ) and was hoping for a little clarification on the method for removing the tensioner guides.

The upper guide slides off easily enough. I cannot, however, seem to bias/compress the tensioner "down" enough to get clearance to slide the lower rail off.

Does this mean I need to use an allen socket to remove the two pins on the bottom of the tensioner to gain adequate clearance to slide off the lower guide? I tried loosening one of these guide pins and it seemed like it might strip (or otherwise misbehave). SO, given the price of the tensioner, I figured it best to verify this was the right course of action before proceeding. Or did I miss the boat completely?

Also, sorry this is a bit of old news, but I couldn't seem to get good enough search terms to turn up the right info.

Thanks!

Love the forum dialogue.

Christopher

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[Cloud9...68]

Somebody else please confirm, as it's been about a year since I replaced my belts, but I'm almost positive you need to remove the pins holding the lower tensioner guide in using an allen socket. I recall it wasn't nearly as bad as I was afraid it was going to be.

To me, the hardest part of the job was positioning the timing belt properly to get it back on the sprockets correctly. I remember shoving some small pieces of wood at strategic locations to apply tension to the belt where I needed it to get it onto the sprockets. Hopefully this will make sense when you get to this step.
Good luck.

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[cg_weinert@yahoo.com]

<!--quoteo(post=68179:date=Mar 7 2009, 06:39 PM:name=Cloud9...68)-->QUOTE (Cloud9...68 @ Mar 7 2009, 06:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Somebody else please confirm, as it's been about a year since I replaced my belts, but I'm almost positive you need to remove the pins holding the lower tensioner guide in using an allen socket. I recall it wasn't nearly as bad as I was afraid it was going to be.

To me, the hardest part of the job was positioning the timing belt properly to get it back on the sprockets correctly. I remember shoving some small pieces of wood at strategic locations to apply tension to the belt where I needed it to get it onto the sprockets. Hopefully this will make sense when you get to this step.
Good luck.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Thanks cloud 9...68; I'll watch for confirmation of your thoughts.

Not too afraid of the belts or cam timing; have had a string of 944's, including an S and a 911 or two. Sure appreciate the reply!

All the best,
Christopher

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[Cloud9...68]

Ah, so you've gone through the cam timing process on these cars before. My car's compression, though very even among the cylinders, is on the low side, so, with about 106K miles, many of them on the track, on the clock, I'm probably due for a cylinder head rebuild. I'd like to pull the head and send it to RS Barn for the valve job, but I've never gone through the cam timing process. Maybe I'll ask for your advice when the time comes.

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[cg_weinert@yahoo.com]

<!--quoteo(post=68185:date=Mar 7 2009, 09:05 PM:name=Cloud9...68)-->QUOTE (Cloud9...68 @ Mar 7 2009, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Ah, so you've gone through the cam timing process on these cars before. My car's compression, though very even among the cylinders, is on the low side, so, with about 106K miles, many of them on the track, on the clock, I'm probably due for a cylinder head rebuild. I'd like to pull the head and send it to RS Barn for the valve job, but I've never gone through the cam timing process. Maybe I'll ask for your advice when the time comes.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Any time! certainly helps to have a pair of dial gauges handy....and some patience. Bugger about the compression.

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[cg_weinert@yahoo.com]

<!--quoteo(post=68193:date=Mar 8 2009, 05:15 AM:name=schnell_cgw)-->QUOTE (schnell_cgw @ Mar 8 2009, 05:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Any time! certainly helps to have a pair of dial gauges handy....and some patience. Bugger about the compression.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

OK- for anyone who is as dumb and me and needs an answer about how, exactly, the lower tensioner rail comes off, you need to suck it up and unscrew the two guide pins on the bottom of the tensioner with an allen socket; the reason they feel as if they may misbehave appears to be loctite on the threads. Not to worry though, they come out cleanly. Slide guide off, etc.

There was "only" 8mm chain stretch on our 47K mile car. Lovely.

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