[Cloud9...68]

I did a search, and couldn't find anything about it. As the title says, my rear hatch is stuck closed, at the right latch. When I either turn the key, or press the release switch at the drivers footwell, the left latch releases, but the right one won't budge. I've crawled into the rear cargo area and loosened the 10 mm nuts that hold the piece that the latch in the hatch goes into, and moved the piece around, but that doesn't help. I've also tugged on the manual release cable, and I can see it moving the right latch mechanism, but this also doesn't help at all. I've also sprayed some spray lubricant into the latch area. This thing is REALLY stuck; it's as if it's super-glued at the right latch. I've tugged on it as hard as I dare, and can't get it to budge. Any ideas?

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[flash]

i'm no help with that today, but a hardtop will be here on saturday and i can look at the latch mechanism and see how it releases



but whatever you do, DON'T twist the hatch by prying up on one corner - the glass can pop, and could even shatter

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[Cloud9...68]

Yes, I know how fragile these hatches are, so I'm being as careful as I can. It appears that while the cable is moving, certainly when I pull on the manual release cable, the latch mechanism itself doesn't appear to be releasing. So I wonder if whatever holds the cable to the mechanism has slipped off, or is just plain broken. This could be a tough one...

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[Sears]

You should be able to go in through the front door, fold the rear seats down and crawl back into the hatch space. Then remove the carpet and you will be able to see the cable that connects the two release mechanisms themselves. From there, the problem will likely be pretty obvious. Good luck.

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[FraMac]

[quote name='Sears' timestamp='1288361326' post='100221']

You should be able to go in through the front door, fold the rear seats down and crawl back into the hatch space. Then remove the carpet and you will be able to see the cable that connects the two release mechanisms themselves. From there, the problem will likely be pretty obvious. Good luck.

[/quote]



Apologies if you've tried this already - press down both sides of the tailgate (over the latch pins)to ensure that the mechanism is fully engaged on each side, then try your release again - if necessary give the tailgate a gentle tug in the middle to help, but as you've already identified be gentle.



I sometimes get the same problem on my CS (which doen't benefit from the electric release) and doing this solves the problem (it happens very rarely and usually if the trunk hasn't been opened in a while).



Good luck, let us know how you fare.

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[968Syncro]

Pushing down is what I was thinking as well. One person push down on the stuck latch at the same time that another person is activating the release (electric or cable). Maybe the tension (friction) is too high to allow the latch part to release from the pin. Or maybe the person could push up and down, jiggle it, while the release is activated.



Roland

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[FraMac]

[quote name='968Syncro' timestamp='1288367604' post='100234']

Or maybe the person could push up and down, jiggle it, while the release is activated.



Roland

[/quote]



Good call Roland - that'd work well with the cable.



Fraser.

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[968Syncro]

That's because my most cherished tool in the box is the hammer.



I think there is an old saying: "If your only tool is a hammer, then every problem looks like a nail".



That reminds me, "If I had a hammer, I'd hammer in the morning...." Oh no, this is getting way to deep for us car guys. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Roland

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks for all the replies. I've crawled back there through the passenger door with the seats folded down. Even though I'm pretty limber for a 51-year-old guy, this maneuver is still pretty much the opposite of fun. I've peeled back the carpet, but unfortunately, I can't really see anything that's terribly enlightening. I've tugged on the manual release cable, and as I said, I can see the rod that drives the mechanism move in response, but this isn't moving the latch mechanism one iota. This is why I'm afraid that whatever connects the rod to the latch has broken or come loose, effectively leaving the latch in the closed position, with no way to get it open. And there's just so little space back there to maneuver (wait - I've got it - I'll just open the hatch so I can see everything better - Oh, wait, that doesn't make any sense <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ).



I'll try the two-person push-down/rotate key/lift up method. If this doesn't work, I'm going to have to get REAL creative. Everybody please keep those thinking caps on and fully engaged, please...

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[FraMac]

[quote name='968Syncro' timestamp='1288389787' post='100267']

That's because my most cherished tool in the box is the hammer.

Roland

[/quote]



Always worth having two hammers in your toolbox in my experience - that way if the small one doesn't work, you've still got somewhere to go.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[DaveN]

I have faith in you, I'm 52 and I can get back there <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Take a 10mm socket with you into the depths and undo the 2 nuts, the black drain cover should come off and you should be able to manually operate the catch. It's been too long to remember what the linkage looks like right at the pivot point but PET can enlighten you there.

Hope this helps.

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[Cloud9...68]

DaveN,



Yes, I've already done this, and unfortunately it was no help. As I said, when I yank on the manual cable, I can see the linkage move, but it doesn't appear to be activating whatever it takes to undo the latch. This is why I'm afraid the connection between the linkage and the latch (I hope I'm using the correct terms) is broken. Also, I tried pushing down on the latch while turning the key, and like everything else I've tried, no luck.



And to add move fun to the weekend, my daughter's 325i's instrument cluster went dead - no lights, none of the gauges work, and the turn signals no longer make their characteristic clicking sound when activate (thought they actually do work). It's not a blown fuse, so my hatch problem will have to go on the back burner while I remove the cluster to see if I can find any obvious wire or connection problems. Wish me luck, because a new cluster is about $1000, plus installation and re-programming at the stealer.

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[Cloud9...68]

Got it! Woo-hoo! It was just misaligned. I crawled back into the cargo area on more time, rolled onto my back so I could get a better look at the underside of the mechanism, and tugged and pushed against it until it finally broke free. No damage to the hatch, either. Once the hatch is open, the latch mechanism is very accessible, so I was able to get it aligned perfectly, and now it opens effortlessly. One more item off my list. Now, it's off to the sunroof switch - it's working intermittently. It will be nice to get this one scratched off my list as well...

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