[DavePearson]

I thought I saw a procedure here on how to repair the glass without removing the hatch, but I can't find it now, help!



Second question, if I do remove the hatch, there are wires for the tail light and wiper motor, I am assuming there is no connector to unplug? Do I have to cut/splice the wire if I go that route? It would not be that hard, merely a pain.



Thanks

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[sasilverbullet]

From someone that tried...you'll probably break the glass trying to get it off! My ins company ended up buying me a new one for $7K, yes 7 thousand dollars!!!!

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[DavePearson]

Thanks for the <shudder> information. 7K is quite expensive.



I think I am going to try the on the car method, I think I can do it, assuming I can find the right size syringes (I did find the article here, great writeup!!). A local glass guy offered to come over and help with the glass truck (but not responsible for glass breakage). He has the tools and the cleanup materials, so I think I am going to take him up on it!

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[midblu]

Good luck and please give us an update after you've completed the process. I know there have to be many coupe owners who would like to know how this turns out for you (me amoung them).



Ron

94 coupe/6 speed

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[FRporscheman]

I took the hatch off twice and it never even came close to breaking.



I tried to repair it without completely taking it apart. I.e. I tried to clean/reglue the separated sections. It failed MISERABLY. It needs to be completely resealed from scratch, at least in my experience. Good luck.

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[xrad]

there is a faq on the 944 hatch glass (slightly different) seal/glue replacment. they say to make sure frame is on car when you fit the glass. I think it's on the web...easy to find.

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[DavePearson]

I scoped out the hatch a little better last night and it appears a repair was already attempted. Around much of the glass is a coat of what appears to be black RTV (quite rubbery) and it is moderately thick (say up to a quarter inch). I am not sure how well it would have sealed had it been done right, but it is obvious the old paint was never removed and it is leaking where the paint is in the worst condition. It appears that whoever did this job did not try to fill in all the gaps, which is another reason why it leaks (I know, I should have looked more closely before I purchased).



This is my plan (A). If this does not work, I will most likely pull the hatch and try to do it without removing the glass. If that does not work, I guess I will have to remove the glass.



First, I want to see how hard it is to remove the silicone substance currently used (it should not be too hard, I just do not want to yank the hatch around too much and bend it). If it can be done relatively easily, I will not remove the hatch.



Next, I will use a razor blade (as described in another post) to remove as much of the old paint and adhesive as possible. I will clean both surfaces to the best of my ability (have to see if I can rig something up for that purpose).



Next, I plan on masking the living daylights out of the hatch, on the outside and inside, anywhere the 3M goo can leak out (I was given a tube by a glass guy who fixed our windshield on a different car). The gentleman offered to help, no guarantees, so I will probably take him up on it.



As also posted before (Harvey), I want to use the syringe to inject the goo (I am considering just a meat syringe). I just hope the masking is enough to hold it, while allowing the goo to spread and fill all spaces.



When I actually get around to doing this, I will try to take pictures so I can post my success or failure (what not to do’s <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ).



Of course, if I see that it is not going to work, I will go to one of the many methods on the web for removing and resealing.



Thanks all for your input and have a great night!

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