[rhudeboye]

While changing my plugs and wires I found that 3 of my 4 plugs had oil on them. Decided to head to the laptop and order a valve gasket and a set of plug rings.

Saw this and thought it was a mistake.

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/YN/C12...eek+Google+Base

Note there's one for the cab and another for the coupe.

Also thought I might ask does anyone prefer one particular brand over another.

Finally- does anyone recommend doing any additional work outside of the gaskets to fix the oily plugs?

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[wiseman]

I'd call Pete or Max and ask.

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[kwikt]

Funny. I noticed that also from Partsgeek even when ordering my dmf. It's easier replacing the hall sensor (if needed)which is behind the distributor while the valve cover is off.

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[Ryan]

Part # is the same for both and they list both cab and coupe below each. Just a goofy way to list the parts I guess.

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[Johannvb]

Yes, I figured it is because not everyone is techie enough to know the correct part number, but they do know what they drive.

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[rhudeboye]

<i>"It's easier replacing the hall sensor (if needed)which is behind the distributor while the valve cover is off."</i>

Thanks Kwik, Ill look into that.

I was just thinking. If you get bad compression they tell you add a couple drops of oil and see if the compression rises. I bet I fix my leaking gasket and my compression needs addressing next.

I'll give Pete a call on Monday, I assume he is snowed in as we are down here in the DC area.

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[flash]

lol - when i last spoke to him, he was grabbing the snowblower from the shop so he could go do the house

living in socal, that is such a foreign concept to me that i can't begin to explain it

as for the hall sender, you really can't change it without removing the valve cover - watch the wire when reinstalling - it loves to get caught under the valve cover

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[rhudeboye]

Don't know where my head was yesterday. Pete changed my hall sender last year. So I guess its just the rings and gasket.

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[flash]

cool - still - watch that wire - it's sneaky and like to get caught under the valve cover, resulting in crimping and failure (ask me how i know - arrrrgh)

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[rhudeboye]

Thanks for the tip. My guess is that I'll run into that problem.

So no DIY PDF on this procedure? I'd love to do one myself but this would be my first gasket job on the 68. BTW- I hate the shop Manuel.

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[flash]

pretty simple

let car sit for at least 1 hour to allow fuel pressure in system to dissipate

disconnect fuel lines, taking car to hold fixed nuts in place (2 wrenches required) - best to stick a rag under the lines to catch drips

remove fuel rail cover

unplug variocam

disconnect spark plug wires

remove 2 screws holding variocam sender - take care not to destroy gasket below - you can skip this entire step, and leave the retainer in place, but the o-ring gets tricky

remove valve cover retainer screws

lift off valve cover

when reinstalling valve cover, and using new gasket, smear a small amount of rtv across the "grooves" in each corner of the gasket

otherwise, it's just a reverse of the removal process

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[rhudeboye]

Even when things are straight forward there are often little tips to make things go smoother.

Thanx Flash.

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