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Flat spot or cut out problem, just once.
#1

Getting parinoid maybe.



Here in the UK with some supermarkets petrol causing major damage to the lamda sensors putting the mil lights on and some cars breaking down completly others going in limp home mode etc.

This apparently is caused by the incorrect amount of Silicone in the fuel.



Anyway, used the car for my morning fix of adrenalin to work and as i started to power out of a hard bend in third the engine seemed to cut out with either flat spot or something, just the once!

Is the cars ecu programed to restrick excess full power torque before the rev limiter becomes opperatinal as this was in the lower rev band.

Could it be some rogue fuel or the start of a prob?
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#2

Did you happen to notice what rpm the engine was at when the power dropped off?

The DME with the factory chip is designed to cut-out at 6800. If the O2 [lamda] sensor is fouled, a trouble code will be stored in the DME.



If the issue with the petrol is widely known, I would think there would be some legal action{?}.



If the cut-out is intermitent, it may be the issue some have experienced with the connector to the cam position hall sensor. If the DME doesn't get the proper signal from the all the sensors, it'll pull back the timing.
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#3

Hi, the RPM and i am guessing was roughly 3500 to 4000.

Did not have a MIL light or any warning lights,just a big "jerk" loss of power then full power.

Not good for the drive train!

I have no idea where the socket is to read the codes!

This is a link about the fuel prob.

Thanks for your help.

http://www.24dash.com/communities/17387.htm
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#4

First, I would never put Grocery store gas in my CAR!



There is another issue that has occured too many times where a baffling in the gas tank breaks and allows fuel starvation under high lateral G's (IIRC esp. hard rights). See if it's repeatable on hard rights.



Also, there is a procedure for checking error codes through the "check" light on the dash. Do a search.



Good luck.
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#5

Winger: Hmm well that sounds a little different than the sensor issue.



As Rus mentioned take note if it happens when your petrol level is low. However the tank issue is more common with track cars that see more G's



Just food for thought; we had a guy not long ago that had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose connection under the DME relay, [found in the fuse/relay box]. This relay provides power to the fuel pump & DME. Perhaps check terminals for the DME relay. There's a listing of all the relays and fuses in the lid of the relay box.



re: petrol; if it's indeed bad you may need to pull the injectors and have them cleaned out if you noticed poor idle and/or less power.
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#6

Before removing the injectors to have them cleaned, try running a bottle of Chevron Techron through the engine. Just add it to the fuel tank as per instructions on the bottle and it cleans the injectors as you drive. I have used it every three or four months for years and have never had any problems with fuel injectors. Good luck, Bob blackwell.
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#7

Thanks for the help chaps.

I don't think it is fuel related, took the car out yesterday,on powering it hard up a straight road the same thing happened in the lower gear,second this time.

but no probs on hard right and left bends.

No cwl shown.

To day i will do a flash test and see if i can find any codes.

This is with the ignition on using the throttle hard to the floor,then return slowly and the codes if pressent will show in the cwl.

If ok ie no codes, will check out the dme relay for dry joint,also the fuse connections etc as suggested.

Thanks again for all your help.
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#8

is this car a manual or tip?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#9

Checked the flash codes and none stored,unless i have done an incorrect procedure.

Thought i would do a check on any vac pipes, one good thing out of this is the small water leak found on the heater valve so a new unit is comming to-morrow.

Vacum and pipes seem ok.

Still to get round to checking the dme relay and the connections.



Flash the car is manual, car has full Porsche S/h but i wonder if this problem was the reason for the previous owner selling the car!

I shall not give up as when running properly the car is the best thing since slice bread,another point that i may have only just noticed is that when cold i feel the engine is not just quite as smooth only under slight power

or small throttle opening.
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#10

Could the Variocam System be "Acting Up" in some fashion?



I personally haven't heard of such, so speculating here...
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#11

Sorry i have not replied but have only just finnished putting the heater valve and new hoses on.

picture of the valve.



regarding the Variocam cam system i realy don't know if they play up, i can tell that mine has no noises and works as you can feel the car take off at the higher rev's.



   
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#12

hey winger if you get a wild hair this might help you out <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#13

doster, thanks for that i will read up on that and do some checks after the next bit, connections etc.

Is it possible to just have the code reading procedure as i am unable to download the manual, i live out in the sticks and am on dial up!

The way i have tried does not seem to work, useing the throttle.
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#14

Turn the key on (do not start) hold the gas pedal to the floor until the check engine light blinks a few times then let the pedal up about a quarter of the travel, start counting the blinks



   



once you have that code step the pedal down and back up to read the next one (if there are no more; the codes just repeat)

Hope this helps.



PS. Not sure if Porsche does this or not but on US cars (ie. Dodge, Chevy) the system can set a "soft code"; the CEL will not come on but a code will be set in memory, a "hard code" turns the light on.
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#15

Thanks for the info but have had no luck, it seems there is a 9 pin socket on the uk spec so will get to it when found after the fitting of the new roof that is now under way.
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