[ampegboy1]

[quote name='ds968' timestamp='1412213305' post='162677']

I never trounce on it for at least the first few minutes of driving when cold ( not sure how much time it takes before it's considered warmed up though..). In fact, I try not to even exceed 4k rpm for that initial couple of minutes. That aside, either you ( ? ) or my mechanic, or both of you ( having a senior moment now so I can't recall.. ) told me that once week I should lug the car uphill in high gear, so at very low rpm , for maybe just one minute which supposedly forces the rings to expand and also supposedly that's a good thing for the engine . Yes ? No ? Maybe that will even out oil consumption as well..?

[/quote]



Same here, no nailing it for at least the first 12-15 minutes and keep the revs below 4k while it warms up. I think the owner's manual considers the engine to be warm once the coolant temperature gauge is up to the first white mark (haven't got it with me to check), but I always wait until the oil pressure gauge has settled down to 'warm' idle pressure as well, which takes a bit longer.



Michael

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[ds968]

10-15 minutes ? I was talking about maybe 3-5 minutes . It really takes that friggin' long for these cars to fully "warm up" ?! Wow, never heard of any other vehicle requiring that kind of time.. Is this a 4 cyl thing, or aluminum engine thing, or just another 968 peculiarity ? I suppose I will have to give that a try and stay off the boost for at least 10 minutes just to see if the oil consumption changes, but since I'm on a wide, sweeping five lane highway with relatively light traffic less than two minutes after I leave the house in the morning, fighting the temptation to stomp on it the moment I see clear space in front of me will not be an easy chore. Ugh.

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[williamoss]

When i got my 968 about 4 years ago my coolant over flow bottle so so black inside I could not tell if it ws full or empty. So I got a brand new one from Sunset, at the same time i change the presure cap. So now i tlooks brand new. but after I took out the old one I noticed a tiny crack on the bottom.of the old unit. I never saw any leakage but there was that crack.

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[Bulti]

The oil has to be warm, not the coolant. The oil takes more time. I never rev it beyond 3 to 3500 rpm when cold, and I certainly do not floor it to any rpm range. Depending on outside temps it would take about 10 to 15 km to warm it up fully.



3 to 5 min is definitely not enough time! I mind the km's, not the minutes...

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[ampegboy1]

Hi all,

 

I connected up my Durametric to measure the oil and coolant temperature in relation to warm-up time for a thread on another forum and just remembered this thread. The measurement was over a 15-minute drive with a minute or so of 50mph at the start and the rest normal 'round town' driving at 30mph.

 



 

The "Engine temperature" (I assume coolant temperature) settled down after about 4 minutes (≈87ºC), however the oil temperature was only just settling down (≈93ºC) at the end and coincides with the pressure at idle settling down to about 2.5 Bar.

 

Michael

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[Rap]

My new engine drinks a qt of oil a day at the track. No blue smoke out of the tail pipe and no oil to be seen anywhere else. It's perplexing.

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[flash]

you won't see the blue smoke from inside the car.  you can only see it from behind.  have you asked anybody following you if you were smoking?

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[Waylander]

Hi all,

 

I connected up my Durametric to measure the oil and coolant temperature in relation to warm-up time for a thread on another forum and just remembered this thread. The measurement was over a 15-minute drive with a minute or so of 50mph at the start and the rest normal 'round town' driving at 30mph.

 


 

The "Engine temperature" (I assume coolant temperature) settled down after about 4 minutes (≈87ºC), however the oil temperature was only just settling down (≈93ºC) at the end and coincides with the pressure at idle settling down to about 2.5 Bar.

 

Michael

Takes a while to warm up 7L of oil,

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[Rap]

I'm sorry I should have been more specific and said that someone who I play with at the track made this observation.

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[ds968]

Still experiencing an incredibly inconsistent oil consumption ; sometimes I get no more than 300 mi per quart, other times I may get as much as 700 mi + . No leaks, no oil in the coolant, no smoke from the tailpipe, just drinking up oil. Everything appears to be pointing to a vacuum leak, considering the car has a few other symptoms which would suggest that . Will have my mechanic check it out when the car is there next week for a few other trouble-shooting & repair jobs..

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[MLB]

My intake was coated with wet oil last year, and i found a telltale gaping crack in the rubber vacuum elbow on top of the AOS. Might be worth checking that elbow? I will be taking the intake off again soon and hope to find it clean, confirming that vacuum leak was the culprit. However, that did not translate to significant oil consumption in my case, so u may have something else going on...

The crack was in the hidden "tight part" of the bend, so not readily visible until i removed the elbow, if that makes sense.

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[MLB]

Adding to this older thread to Report excessive oil consumption, in conjunction with vacuum leak

Just got the car out of storage a week ago and had put in a quart with only about 100 miles on the clock

I have suspected the worst for almost a year now, that being oil blowing past the rings

But never a cloud of smoke out the back

I just hooked up a Bosch vacuum gauge and saw only 10 or 11 pounds vacuum at idle. Engine was not fully warmed up, but thats still a massive leak somewhere.

Im actually relieved and hope to fix this leak soon

I hope to hear from any other owners that have found and repaired vacuum leaks to help me narrow my search

But high on my list is that metal adapter on the intake manifold, next to the driver side fender well

I tried to seal that thing in with RTV a couple years ago but maybe its failed

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[MCL968]

In the old days we used to find vac leaks with an UNLIT propane torch (unlit being key to the success of this process).

 

Let gas leak out from the tip at a slow to medium rate and pass the tip around the suspect areas with the engine idling. When the vacuum pulls in the propane, the idle will rise and you will know where the leak is located.

 

Also helpful for finding leaking spark plug wires, just look for the fireball.

 

M-

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[ds968]

My mechanic / friend will run a vacuum leak test on my 968 using a smoke machine . He has one in the shop , not sure if you can get those at Autozone, or PepBoys, etc . but I'd imagine most auto repair shops have them , or , you might be able you to find them online . Also no idea what they cost.



And before anyone replies that you can get a smoke machine from a left over 80s rock concerts props warehouse , or, simply a hookah from any of the pot dispensaries in canabis-legal states ..haha, I beat you to it !

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[Rap]

Vape

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[MLB]

Hmm, well so far no joy blowing propane in the vicinity of the (fuel) vac lines I know about.

 

At least, I did not notice any increase in engine RPMs at idle.

Referring in particular to WSM diagram on page 20-1, and PET diagrams 107-15, 201-15, basically covering the area from around throttle body, intake manifold and vacuum valve by the brake booster, and back of fuel rail by the air/oil separator.

Any other "hot' spots I may have overlooked?

What is that vacuum valve behind the cam sprocket, under the hall sender plug?

 

At times, the reading on the vacuum gauge, which I connected in line with the "Y" connecter next to the FPR, was even well below 10 inches of mercury (I misspoke above referring to "pounds of vacuum" duh). So there has to be a major leak somewhere.

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[Waylander]

try the little vac connector below the ICV in the side of the Plenum Camber of the inlet manifold, the metal tube was loose in my car, i had to glue it back in with epoxy,

 

also at cold idle the ICV will be letting loads of air into the manifold

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[MLB]

Ok thanks Waylander, i will test again on fully warmed up engine, and re-seal that metal tube.

May also end up trying to R&R the ICV, while im in there...

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[John]

MLB asked "What is that vacuum valve behind the cam sprocket, under the hall sender plug?"

That's the heater control valve, and the small elbow-shape hose often cracks due to heat from the nearby exhaust manifold resulting in a vacuum leak.

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[MCL968]

MLB asked "What is that vacuum valve behind the cam sprocket, under the hall sender plug?"

That's the heater control valve, and the small elbow-shape hose often cracks due to heat from the nearby exhaust manifold resulting in a vacuum leak.

 

Yes. If there is a leak, the valve defaults to hot and the cabin gets really warm.

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