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Driver's side power lock
#1

Boy, did I ever jinx myself. A couple of months ago, I posted a thread asking what repair do you dread most on your car, and I offered that for me, it would be anything having to do with removing a door panel (bad experiences on prior cars with getting them to go back properly after removing them). Well, sure enough, my driver's side door lock is acting up. It's still somewhat intermittent, and as luck would have it, I can't get it to reproduce at the moment, but here's my best recollection of what it's doing with increasing frequency:

Both doors lock fine from either the driver or passenger side, but when I try unlocking the driver's side door, it makes a sound like it's struggling to unlock, but just doesn't. When this happens, it finally manages to open on the 10th - 25th twist of the key. And here's what I think is the best clue: When I try unlocking the car from the passenger side, the passenger lock pops up just fine, but the driver's side makes the same struggling sound as when I try unlocking it from the driver's side, but again, it just doesn't unlock. So, I don't think it has anything to do with the lock itself (the part the key goes into - drawing a blank as to what it's called, as usual).

Also, Flash mentioned using a tool of some kind to make the removal of the panel safer and more efficient. Is this a special, Porsche-specific tool, or some sort of generic panel-puller? Any other tips as to how to go about the repair I'm about to take on? Is the manual's description of the R & R process decent, or is Clark's Garage a better source? Thanks, as always.
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#2

generic panel puller - i think mine is a mac, but everybody makes them
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

Sounds like the electric actuater thingy is is either dying, or loose and out of alignment. If I cast my mind back to a few months ago, the actuator must be aligned to a sweat spot that allows it to push just enough to lock and pull just enough to unlock.

Also, with ref to the door panels. Besides the screws and pop thing-a-majigs, when you put the panel back remember to get the metal hook at the top of the arm rest to slot into the door frame. If not, the panel bends when you pull on the arm rest. Other than that, work slowly and methodically and it should be fine.

There should be no need to use force if all the screws are out. When loose, lift panel up to unhook before pulling away from door frame.
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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#4

I just did this last weekend. Same symptoms you mentioned. Turns out the "Operating Rod" was loose - part 944.537.511.00. You can look up the diagram in PET.

And yes, you have to pull off the door panel. I've done it twice now, and the second time was downright easy. Just keep track of which screws go where. There is a great write-up in the DIY section with pictures. It's called Door Handle Gasket Replacement and steps you through removing the panel.

The tool mentioned is pretty much a generic item; may be able to find one in an uphostery shop ?



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#5

Thanks for the great replies! I've had some anxiety over pulling the door panels (funny, I had no hesitation in replacing my belts, engine mounts, clutch master & slave cylinder & high pressure line), but I've had some bad prior experiences with door panels on other cars not going back on properly. I'll definitely check out the DIY, and will pick up a panel pulling tool.

Niner, did you have to replace the operating rod (i.e. was it bent or damaged?), ot did you just have to get it back to its proper position/location? Thanks.

Also, if it is the actuator, any recommendations as to sources for buying a replacement? Thanks again.
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#6

The rod has a ball and socket type connection. I think the socket on the plastic rod was cracked, but it is hard to see. I reset that and will wait and see. It is working now, but if it fails again I'll just get another one. I think they're <$5.

Good luck
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#7

For the record. Note the broken/missing piece on the old part that stops the ball socket from holding the ball joint tightly.
Assembly : Unclip, insert ball joint, snap clip closed. Good for another 15 Years. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
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#8

Daydreamer,

Thanks for the great photo and explanation. As our cars age, it looks like the door locks are getting higher on the list of things that will need attention. The weird thing about mine is that it's mysteriously working again. It's funny how many problems I've had with this car are like that; I get ready to fix the problem, and then it goes away. The hard starting problem is another example; it's completely vanished, with no intervention on my part. The lock mechanism problem seems to be temperature related, so I'm sure the warmer spring weather is contributing to the "cure." This might be a project for the Fall.
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#9

Cloud968.. I agree... each time I tick something off the list, something else pops up.... I have dreams of winning the lotto and and sending the car to be completey restored [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img].. if only...
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#10

"Cloud968.. I agree... each time I tick something off the list, something else pops up.... I have dreams of winning the lotto and and sending the car to be completey restored .. if only... "

So true! And now, of all things, my sunroof drive has magically started working again! As the song used to go, "How bizarre..."
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