[mefforddk]

Has anyone had their actual clutch pedal break? Mine did right at the pin/bushing interface. Sitting here holding it in my hand. I am pretty sure the PO had the local shop install a new clutch and they put in the incorrect part. It has always been stiff, possible even clutch fork dragging as well. Seems all that stress was on the pedal and it failed.

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[mefforddk]

Does anyone know a secret to removing the clutch pedal from the shaft? I can't see how i can get the shaft past all the electrical bundle. There seems to be a screw on the end of the shaft on the clutch side, but I can't tell. Thought someone might have replaced a clutch pedal with an aftermarket type might know.

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[flash]

i don't know of any aftermarket pedals out there - i'll see if i can figure out how the pedal comes out tomorrow

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[mefforddk]

Flash,



It appears that the pivot rod is for both the brake and clutch pedal. The clip is on the brake side, implying that the rod has to come out the clutch side. however, there is a bundel of wires that feeds the bank of relays under the hood. I think that if you remove the two retaining screws on the bank of relays under the hood and lift up on that bank it may extend the wires enough to "fish" the rod past and remove the clutch pedal.



if that doesn't work, I am out of answers. I did see where Pelican Parts offers an after market Al clutch pedal set, but I have not found anyone who has used them.



Thanks for your help Flash, let me what you find out.



BTW: the pedal broke because the clevis and pin had worn down and instead of the pin engaging the clevis to push the clutch rod in, the clevis impacted the inside of the clutch pedal until it cracked and eventually failed. I can tell where the clevis wore into the pedal. So make sure your pin/clevis/bushing are in good shape.

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[flash]

that main fuse block does indeed go up rather high - you have to give it a half twist as you go, but it goes up pretty easily - BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!!!

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[mefforddk]

Ok, thanks Flash. I was thinking that might be the only way to go. I'll give it a try in the next day or so. The part should be in by Tuesday.

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[mefforddk]

So here is the failure mechanism.





A worn clevis and pin can caused the clutch pedal to break. The clevis and pin wore down until the back of the clevis bottomed out against the inside of the clutch pedal. It wore a groove until the plastic fatigued and broke. I had been hearing a squeak that I could not stop with simply lubrication.

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[TonyBray]

Mefforddk,



I came home a few weeks ago from a trip with a new noise when I released my clutch. It was a loud clicking sound. I replaced my clutch clevis, pin, and bushing this weekend. Mine were worn but not as bad as yours. However, I still get the clicking. I'm thinking I need to replace both bushings on the pedal shaft. Got any tips for the r&r of that shaft?

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[ds968]

Oh, oh...my clutch pedal has been squeaking for a couple of years now, but only once in a while. Since it happens infrequently I have ignored it, but I better check it out in case that might be a symptom of eventual failure of those components ( clevis and pin)

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[951968]

That is exactly what my pin and clevis looked like when I had to replace the clutch, pressure plate, master and slave cyl. I took the pin and clevis off and could not believe how it looked. This was in 2009. In July, 2010, I pushed the clutch pedal in as I was leaving a store and the pedal snapped. Had to get it towed home. Germany was the only place with a pedal. Had to wait a month for the part, then it was several more months before I fixed it. It had a mark from the clevis pressing against the plastic pedal, causing it to eventually fail.

Yes the easiest way was to remove the fuse box. Make sure you correctly adjust the booster spring, The measurements are just a guideline. Mine was feeling really stiff, so I loosened it up a bit.



The genious I bought the car from really hid a lot of faults of this car and claimed it was a 9 out of 10 in and out.

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[TonyBray]

Are there any bushings on the main shaft or is it just plain?

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[bva]

can you confirm that the problem parts that initated your failure mode are call-outs number 21 and 28?

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[TonyBray]

Brian,



Yes, parts 21 and 28 but don't forget part #22. That's the bushing that fits between the pin and clevis. When it wears out, you get metal on metal between the pin and clevis. When you get enough slop, the head of the clevis will push against the plastic pedal body until it causes it to break.



--Tony

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[gbarrier]

Talk to Pete at RS Barn and get the correct pressure plate if yours is stiff. The right part cost a little more but it feels oh so much better.

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