[flash]

ring me up

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[PorscheG96]

Dave, are you sure that the slave pin goes into the clutch fork? Did you open the clutch inspection port to verify?

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[rl968]

go back to my post #4. It took my mechanic, who knows his stuff, 1000 pumps of the pedal to get it going. Keep trying

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[Cloud9...68]

This is so odd. I'm no expert on automotive hydraulics, but all it took for me to bleed my clutch was one push through the motive bleeder. 5 minutes and I was done. Now, I did replace both the master and slave cylinder along with the line, so I suspect this was a big factor in the ease of bleeding I experienced. Maybe this should be standard procedure when replacing the clutch line. They're not terribly expensive, and my clutch's feel improved immensely when I was done, even though the clutch itself was about 80% gone at the time I did this job.

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[flash]

never ever ever pump a hydraulic pedal. that generates micro-bubbles that you will later have to bleed out. there is plenty of documentation on this out there. if you have to do it manually, here is how to do it:



http://www.teamrip.c...lutch_info.html



a motive power bleeder eliminates all of this though, and works in one quick shot



the problem with dave's was an unseated slave clevis rod - PorscheG96 was on it minutes after me. we were both on the same thought.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1327632473' post='120975']

the problem with dave's was an unseated slave clevis rod - PorscheG96 was on it minutes after me. we were both on the same thought.

[/quote]

I think mine may have this issue at the moment, as I had to remove the slave cylinder as part of the clutch removal job. The slave clevis rod (I assume this is the name for the rod the protrudes out of the nose of the slave cylinder) feels like it isn't attached to anything - just sort of flopping in the breeze. I tried briefly to push it back into position, but it wasn't popping in easily, so I didn't pursue it, realizing it would probably be months before I had to put the slave cylinder back. Is there a trick to re-seating the clevis rod? Thanks.

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[flash]

no trick really, just get the fork in the right spot, and watch through the hole as you insert the slave to make sure it hits the cup and stays there as you tighten up the bolts

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[DaveN]

When I get my new one I will once again put my finger in the access hole and try to make sure the rod goes into the cup <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> again.

I was sure it was in last time but it blew out and past the cup ruining the bellows that drives the rod.

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[flash]

it happens. i had one slip out and jam up. i got lucky and didn't do any damage.

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[DaveN]

All is right in '68 land again. I removed the bellows from the old slave and put it on the new one. I was under the impression the bellows was a critial item but it's just basically a dirt shield; the new piston and seal are the important bits. Bled the clutch without any problems. There is still a funky few centimetes when you can feel the clutch pedal spring instead of the master pressure but that may have always been there. I will re-bleed the slave in the spring after a few drives.

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[PorscheG96]

You can adjust the master cylinder needle in the driver's footwell to address this...sounds like it needs to be extended a few turns. All you need is a 13mm wrench but it requires a bit of trial and error to get right.

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[DaveN]

I wasn't aware you could adjust that, tks. Of course it's upside down and you have to be a pole dancer to get in there with the seat in place <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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