[apex]

Well it - finally I guess - happened to me tonight in Lowe's parking lot - started the car to leave with my bag of too many tiny pipe fittings (plumbing repairs at home) and BAM! the bottom dropped out of the clutch pedal and it won't come back up. Got the car back in neutral and was able to coast back into my parking spot.



Waited 1:45 for the flatbed to arrive... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



So... having just perused the excellent data still on 968.net I'm thinking of replacing master, slave, and both hydraulic hoses - pressure line and blue reservoir line.



There are NO leaks and the reservoir is full - can anyone explain? The clutch pedal mechanism seems fine. Can a cylinder go bad without it leaking?



Note to Dave Greimann - looks like you ever got around to adding customized pressure hoses to the 968 Engineering product line?

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[Greimann]

[quote name='apex' date='Jan 28 2006, 05:57 PM']...... There are NO leaks and the reservoir is full - can anyone explain

Note to Dave Greimann - looks like you ever got around to adding customized pressure hoses to the 968 Engineering product line?

[right][post="15207"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



The reservoir is also for the brake fluid and there is a little dam at the point where the blue hose connects to the supply for the clutch. If you loose the clutch line you won't drain the brake fluid reservoir dry. Those Germans, gotta love 'em.



So also related to this little dam, if the fluid level is way low, you could possibly suck air into the clutch line and still have fluid in the container ( I am tired of typing reservoir).



But most likely you blew the rubber clutch line. Look closer, there is probably a spray pattern of fluid down there somewhere.



And no, I don't have the braided steel lines as part of my product line. My guy couldn't source the fittings. The good news is, you can get your old one converted at just about any hydraulic shop. They reuse your fittings and braze in a stainless line. Check the yellow pages.

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[Dave]

The hose failure will be apparent (mine was) with drops of brake fluid under the car, as noted by Dave above. The only time the pedal just fell to floor and WOULD NOT come back up, it was this hose.



The original is pretty good, considering it lasted 10+ years. No need to re-engineer that piece.



By the way, a 930 hose can be made to work (ask me how I know).

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[apex]

Thanks fellas - I'll look more closely for splatter - been raining all day so not a good day to lie on the ground. Oh for want of a garage!

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Dirk]

This is a picture of what it looks like when that hose blows.

The yellow van is help arriving <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



   

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[bob blackwell]

When my clutch pedal did this it turned out to be the clutch slave cylinder, not the hose at all. I drove it to my favorite local shop by starting the car in first gear and then shifting without the clutch until I had to come to a complete stop again. Then I started the car in first again and made it all the way to the shop. Not too many months later (about three) I replaced my starter.........not a recommended procedure, the flat bed would have been cheaper. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[Greimann]

Driving without a clutch - an exercise in concentration for sure. Done that twice on a previous project car. It is like trying to rub your belly and pat your head while fighting a rabid weasel on caffeine. But, you get home without having to call a tow truck!

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[Bandini]

Bringing up an old post, because my clutch pedal dropped to the floor on me yesterday. I thought it must be a hydraulic problem for sure, and I still guess it is. What I find a bit strange is that now the car won't start.



It stalled in first gear (while I was searching for the pedal with my foot like an idiot). I leaned down and pulled the pedal by hand, and it came back with a thump. I disengaged the gear and tried turning the key. The lights came on, but not a sound from the starter. Nothing.



What gives?



A mechanic friend told me in that case the clutch might have failed with parts flying around, jamming the engine or the starter. Otherwise it would start normally. I sincerely hope he is wrong.

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[flash]

could be a bigger problem - in the case of my mechanical clutch failure, i actually cracked my pressure plate - however, the pedal was just stcuk, not at the floor



at the floor should indicate a hydraulic problem, but it could be a broken slave rod, shift fork, or release bearing - any of these could have jammed things up

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[Bandini]

I'm still hoping it's just the hydraulics. In fact, it could be that the immobilizer got activated, and I was just too stressed out to notice.



I'm off work in half an hour. Can't wait to give it another try...

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[Bandini]

[quote name='Bandini' date='Oct 20 2006, 03:38 PM']In fact, it could be that the immobilizer got activated, and I was just too stressed out to notice.[right][post="27034"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Phew! I'm very happy and a bit embarrased; It probably was the immobilizer, cause today it started normally...

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[Kim]

Happened to me about a month ago, 1.5 km after having the clutch and brake fluid replaced. The clutch line went and the clutch stayed on the floor. I took Flash's advice and replaced the master and slave cylinders at same time. Works good now. It's just money.

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[jpk]

I just replaced the master, slave and high pressure hose. (I still need to do the blue hose, but I'll get to it eventually)

The job is really not that bad. The procedure in clarks garage spells eveything out pretty well. The key is patience - there are times that you think it's impossible to do what you need to do, but keep at it and it somehow happens.

By far, I'd have to say the most difficult part of the job was getting the pin out from the clevis attaching the MS to the clutch pedal; once you figure out how to get the clip off, then somehow pressing with enough force on the pin to get it out (I ended up getting it with the tip of a screwdriver). All while lying on your back with your head up under the dash where there isn't enough room to get your head down far enough to see everything... I ended up taking the seat out.

The Motive power bleeder was a very well spent $50. The entire bleeding operation took only a few minutes - I could hardly believe how easy it was.

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[robinm]

HI guys. I am going to revive this one again, because I am having a hell of a time gettimg my clutch fixed. I have read, and re-read these postings just to make sure. My clutch pedal hit the floor, as has been the common theme here. Lots of fluid in the reservior, no spray patterns anywhere...

So... I just replaced the Master and the Slave cylinders. I know the Clarks Garage procedure better than the back of my own hand. When doing the bleeding, we thought we had all the air out of the line, but when I close off the bleeder valve, my helper (mechanic Dad), continued pumping on the clutch to build up some pressure. He also said the pedal force was feeling better, but still not coming back on it's own...when... POP! the rubber line burst.



OK, obviously replace the rubber line as well, but it seems like there is a bigger problem here. When installing the Slave cylinder, I did notice something a little strange about where the Slave cylinder piston pushes against. (I believe it is the wishbone??) When looking through the inspection port, I was able to freely move the "wishbone" forward and back. I did not think anything of it at the time, but afterwards, when we blew the rubber line, it seemed odd.



Any thoughts or ideas. I am pretty much done with this car. I bought it in September, and have literally drivenit for no more than 3 weeks since then. I have already paid upwards of $3000 to $4000 making other repairs. Now I know these cars are a little older, but I am clearly thinking mine has an Italian Gremlin living in it, wreaking havoc on my poor, unsuspecting German car.



HELP



Tired and frustrated....I just want the car to work. This has been a dream car for me since I was a teenager, and it has quickly soured me against them with all the problems. I think the previous owner was a lot harder on it than he led me to believe.





Thanks guys.

Robinm

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[wingers]

When i had a heavy clutch one of the things i lubricated as well as the recomendations given was the fork pivot ball.

Have known these on some cars to wear right through or snap off looseing clutch pedal pressure and excess travel.

Also have had rubber hoses baloon, giving a feeble clutch.

This may help with checks!

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[flash]

yup - this happens all the time - sorry to hear it, but that's why i tell people to change all 3 parts at once - hydraulics are like that



ok - two things:



1 - replace rubber line with new stainless line - you can get it from rs barn



2 - visually inspect the fork and release bearing - make sure the slave rod is in the cup at the end of the fork and the fork is pivoting on the shaft bearings - also look to see that the release bearing is properly seated - you will probably have to remove the side cover to do this - i don't think you can see it any other way - this is not a simple job, but not the worst one either



if the fork or release bearing turn out to be the problem, you are looking at a pretty substantial job to get to it, involving taking the clutch out

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