Hello. It's been awhile since I changed pads and rotors on my 968, but I recall it being very easy. You might want to go the youtube.com and enter "changing pads and rotors on ___" (pick any car, like maybe a Porsche 944, 928, or 911, as I think the procedures are all very similar. I doubt there's a youtube video for a 968), and watching the video. I don't remember there being anything unique about the 968's procedure. I know there is a good description for changing the pads and rotors for the BMW E46.
Basically, the job involves the following steps:
1. Loosen the wheel lugs on the wheels whose brakes you want to change.
2. With a good floor jack, lift the car up by its jacking points (located just behind the front wheels, and just in front of the rear wheels), and secure the car with solid jack stands. I like to use a block of wood which I've modified to fit securely onto the cradle of my jack stands, and placing it under the rails that run parallel to the length of the car. This nicely distributes the load. Other people have different favorite jacking techniques. Honestly, this is probably the hardest part of the job.
3. Remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel/tire. This is a good time to thoroughly clean the inner part of the wheel.
4. Using a large screwdriver or a small pry bar (one of these is a very good investment - I'd highly recommend getting one), remove the caliper retaining clip. Remember how it went on - I once put one back on backwards on our minivan. You can always refer to the other one to make sure you have it correct when re-installing.
5. You have to remove the calipers to remove the pads, but it's very easy. The caliper is held in place by a couple of large bolts, either 17 or 19 mm. Very important - before removing the caliper, thread a bungee cord, rope, thick string, or possibly a coat hanger through one of the caliper's bolt holes, and hang the caliper from the coil spring (assuming you're doing the front brakes). Never let the weight of the caliper be supported by the brake line.
6. Take a large C-clamp, and, with the old pads still in their calipers, use it to retract the piston ALL THE WAY back into the caliper. Keep an eye of the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow. If it's overly full, use a turkey baster or siphon to remove some of it. Repeat for the other piston.
7. Now pull out the old calipers. I believe one of them has a spring thingy on its back that secures it inside the piston, but it's not too difficult to remove.
8. Before installing the new pads, smear a generous amount of anti-squeal gel onto the backside of each of the rotors.
9. Install the new pads.
10. Put the retaining clip back on.
11. As far as the rotor, first remove the retaining screw. I seem to remember it having a large Philips head. It may be stuck pretty tight (mine was). If so, spray some anti-seize (I use PB Blaster), and let it sit awhile. It would probably be a good idea to do this as soon as you remove the wheel. Then, use a heat gun to get it blazing hot. If it still doesn't come off, head to Harbor Freight and buy an impact screwdriver. These things are very cheap, yet priceless. One good whack should loosen the screw; it did for me.
12. If you're lucky, the rotor will come right off. If not, you might be in for some fun times and colorful language. Spray some anti-seize all around the back of the rotor where it attaches to the hub, try the heat gun, and then take a heavy rubber mallet and smack the rotor as hard as you can. If you're planning on replacing the rotors, abandon the rubber mallet, and go straight for the heavy artillery - find the heaviest, nastiest hammer you can, wind up as far as you can, and let it fly, understanding you will completely destroy the rotor. Keep at it; it will eventually come off. If you have to, jack up the car a little higher to give yourself more swinging room. Mine actually came off very easily, buy my daughter's '04 BMW 325i required every ounce of force I could muster, and I'm a reasonably strong guy.
13. Installation is the reverse of removal. Your car may have wear sensors; if so, you'd have to replace those as well, but if they're anything like a BMW's, they should clip right in. My 968 has upgraded calipers and rotors, and it looks like the wear sensors have been cut.
OK, that's a 968 brake job from my memory. Others please chime in if there's anything I forgot. Good luck; it's not a difficult job, but it can be somewhat time-consuming, and it is very dirty.
