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Not goodbye time! I'm baaaackkk! Got it repaired at a shop this past few weeks. And very happy for the decision. Here is a picture of the broken one which now resides in my garage.
The technicalities: anywhere from $1182 to $1500 for the part. Sunset was $1182, the shop said the lowest they could find was a little over $1500. I asked them to buy from Sunset but the shop added 10% (fine with me) since I wanted a turnkey warranty on parts and labor. Book spec is 14 hours of labor, so do the math. He also did a new rear main seal, torque converter seal, and new crank speed sensor (about $240).
Nice experience, the tech who did the work has been to Porsche factory training many times. He invited me in back to take a look. He showed me a metal plaque on his toolbox from when he attended the new model introduction factory training for the 968 in 1992! So this was the right guy, works on all Porches, but he is a big fan of the 968s.
I looked at alternatives, mainly boxsters and Corvette C5. I don't fit in a Boxster, and wouldn't want it anyway because if I want to drive in a cocoon I'll go get an MGB again. C5s are a dime a dozen, and just don't stir my heart after 27 years in only Porsches. The 968 just has a great styling and design which I very much like, and exclusivity, and it is still a great car.
After driving my VW van for 5 months ..... well imagine the joy of having this car back.
Only two things left to do:
1. fix the other nagging things: sunroof gears, new radiator fans, etc.
2. buy a second 968 before the prices go up too much!
Roland
Roland
'93 Coupe Tip Silver on Grey, '02 911 C4S, '89 Vanagon Syncro -- (RIP: 944, 911SC, 931, MGB, VW Bug, GTO, Sprite.)
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The part number is 944 116 065 04. The picture above is the broken one, but I don't have a picture of good / whole one.
Here is the spec from the PET (picture below). It is part number 19 in the image, sits inside the bellhousing. The 2 little tabs visible on the inside ring facing the flywheel are important. If the rubber fails, the car will still drive because these two tabs interlock with equivalent tabs on the flywheel. But they are not a tight fit, it is a loose fit. So when it fails, there is much "clanging" as these 2 tabs rattle back and forth against the flywheel. Generally not a good idea, could be risky, something else could break, but I drove mine for a few trips after failure, for example drove it to the repair shop but always placed the trans in idle during deceleration and while stopped to take the load off. Then back into "drive" when the light turns green.
Here is a PDF the same image in case the image isn't clear enough.
Also be aware that there is an inspection hole on the bellhousing so a mechanic can take a look inside to see if it is broken.
Roland
'93 Coupe Tip Silver on Grey, '02 911 C4S, '89 Vanagon Syncro -- (RIP: 944, 911SC, 931, MGB, VW Bug, GTO, Sprite.)
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The 944 clutch damper is a lot like that but with a couple of fingers that would catch and hold if the rubber ripped out. This way it would not leave you stranded when the rubber went by by. I did the clutch on my 944 and went with a spring center replacement. That was a lot of work on jack-stands by my self. The only down side to the spring center is the tranny rattle than you now get at idle.
92 968 cab (cobalt blue/black top/grey int)
87 944S
19 Audi A6 3.0T
03 Toyota Tundra
