[flash]

i ran the 5:33 for about 10 years in my street car.  no issues.  no lockup problems.  never drove the car in the rain though, so i never tested the ABS in those conditions, which is where problems could arise.  the vavle causes the rear brakes to activate earlier.  this could create rear lockup under the wrong conditions.

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[968workaholic]

I only recently discovered the 5/25 valve, so can't say one is better over the other. Just putting it out there that there is one in between the two

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[az968]

bias valve R&R is a pain in the butt.  dancing around the windshield washer reservoir sucks.  not enough room in there to really get your hand in there either.  take your time, and get used to the idea of brake fluid all over your arm.

Can the windshield reservoir be fairly easilyl removed to make access better? I'd rather deal with windshield cleaner than brake fluid.

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[flash]

lol - unfortunately you get to deal with both.

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[MLB]

Got the new SS braided brake lines installed

Also the 5 / 33 bias valve

Then bled air out of lines using motive power bleeder

What a tedious days work! Im slow anyway but that bias valve was a pain! Couldnt find a way to remove the washer fluid reservoir. Gotta loosen both ends and carefully pry the old one out and the new one in

Lots of F-bombs still to clean up in the garage :0)

Hope to be rewarded tomorrow as i test drive and make sure all is well

After all the work I've done on this car I'm more tempted than ever to blow 50 bucks on the PCA raffle this year; man, that Carrera GTS....

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[az968]

Sounds like a really fun day in the garage. Let us know what you think. I'm hoping to find time to do my brakes before the West Coast Gathering in June, but don't get home for two more weeks to even think about starting, and SS lines and bias valve are on my wish list.

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[MLB]

Gonna take more effort to get the brakes bled properly. Pedal was very soft, but I could 'pump it up' with about 3 or 4 presses. Then very soft again.

I kept at least a small amount of brake fluid in the reservoir while I was removing old parts and installing new, but...

after bleeding at each wheel (RR, LR, RF, LF in that order), got bubbles at rears especially but less bubbling that expected at the fronts.

Need to chase some threads here on the forum. Elevating the car in some particular direction may help but I seem to recall reading that this can be another real pain on this car. Will let you know.

 

Update: duh... oops, I was only bleeding the outside bleeder, overlooked the inside one with the wheels in place. This will just be easier for me to be thorough by removing the wheel, then bleeding each screw in turn.

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[RS Barn]

RR, LR,RF,LF

The air will be less at each corner in this sequence.

To get a really high firm pedal I also use Motive bleeder with system pressurized and have someone hold pedal down (traditional method) and crack bleeder. 

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[MLB]

Is it possible for the brake pedal to be mushy because the clutch line now has air in it?

(I got no more air bubbles from bleeding the 4 inner caliper bleed screws.)

I will bleed the clutch after work tonite.

 

Also wondering about the ABS. If I can get the brakes bled, should I drive the car and activate the ABS a couple times, then bleed again?

Does anti-lock operate on the rear brakes also, or would I only need to re-bleed the front brakes?

thanks

 

NOTE: hey, this is my post #484! Thats half-way to 968, right!? ;0)

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[968workaholic]

 There is still air in the system, it's strange that you didn't get any out when bleeding the inside calipers, since that's where the air would be trapped. I would do the bleed process again to be sure

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[RS Barn]

Anti Lock is a two channel on front and single on rear. Which means each front side is independent. So if either front wheel locks up, only that wheel releases brake pressure.

If either rear locks up, both roll free. 

It won't hurt to drive car a bit to activate the abs pump, let rest overnight and then bleed in sequence again. (using both bleeders this time)

Sure helps having a lift and all 4 wheels off. Takes minutes!

The clutch is fed from top of brake master cylinder and doesn't affect brakes. But if you are bleeding brakes and fluid becomes low, you will get air in clutch line. Yuck.

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[MLB]

Thanks so much for the replies, and the info about how the antilock system works.

Yeah, it's pretty cramped working in my garage, with a floor jack .

But all is well, brakes are bled and pedal feel is better than it's been for some time.

Pete, I used your suggestion of motive power bleeder PLUS a friend pushing on the pedal. There were no bubbles from the clutch bleeder, but two small ones from the RR outer break bleeder that I couldn't get with the motive alone (at 10 psi; maybe I need to increase the pressure next time I use it?)

Back in business!

(but I still think I'm going to spend for PCA raffle ticket this month ;0)

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[Roboman]

Can someone please let me see a photo of their SS brake lines installed - thanks.

 

I'm having trouble with a supplier who swears I have the right part and they've not previously encountered issues.

 

See my pics below ...... the SS joint is half the height of the original, so when the SS joint is pushed through the tab and clipped into place as it should be, the brake line nipple doesn't reach.

 

                 

 

I suppose the other question which may help is whether all those models 87-89, 87/88 - Turbo, S2 89-91, and 968 all have the same brake line part number ... must have a look on PeliParts .... edit ...... and they do, so a photo of the SS lines fitted would be really helpful for proof to my supplier.

 

Photos anyone??

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[Waylander]

Let me take a picture of mine,


There is quite possibly some slack in the brake pipe, give it a tug down

The collar and clip ring look to be in about the same place

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[Roboman]

I also looked at the SS photos on PeliParts and they have a joint which is the same size as the original lines .... but it could be just a stock photo

Waylander are yours Goodridge Aviation?

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[Waylander]

Yes they are, got them from Stuart

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