[Royal Tiger]

Does anyone know of a K&N "Typhoon" style air intake mod to totally remove the air box all together? I saw the VERY informative DIY about the air box mod, I'm wondering about total air box removal for even more hp gains.

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[Greimann]

With the air box mod and a K&N, there is no restriction attributal to the air box system. We measured it and it is equivalent to the air box lid only in free air.



The next thing in line would be the MAF and throttle body, but who knows what could be substituted for those and still have everything work.

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[Brian]

didn't someone post here about a cone filter some time back....?

a search might turn it up.

sure seems like someone pulled it off.



the holes in the air box definitely help a ton from my experience. might be simpler.

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[flash]

simpler and more effective - we tested a cone filter - while it did show marked improvement, it wasn't as much as the airbox mod - the airbox mod achieved zero restriction - you can't get better than that without forcing air in

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[Brian]

can you tell it's a slow day?



here's the post i remembered.

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...9&hl=air+filter



and again

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...1&hl=air+filter

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[Kunz]

Hello everybody



Please forgive me when I ask this. I read now many times in this forum to do "the air box mod". It seems to be a standard mod.

But could somebody please explain what is really ment to be.



I personally made the experiment some weeks ago on the dyno. We messured the car with the stock airbox with K&N and then with a cone right on the MAF. The result was a gain of 9hp at the wheels from 3800rpm up the revs which is not to bad in my eyes...

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[flash]

brian - yes - pretty clean setup - can't work better than zero though, and our tests showed that the cone filter had more restriction than the modded airbox



kunz - the mod reduces the intake restriction to zero - so far, it is the only thing we have tested that has resulted in that much improvement - there was 10.8hp at the wheels - it is also smog legal, which is a growing issue



did you manage to close the hood with the cone? this was one of the problems we found - we could not get a filter large enough and still close the hood - surface area is a key factor in intake efficiency

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[flash]

just go in and hit the delete button at the bottom of your post

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[Kunz]

Hi Flash



"The Mod" you are talking about is the one from 968 Engineering (4 wholes in the front of the box) or more something like Airtek (direct pipe from the MAF to behind the bumper)?



Cheers

Andi

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[flash]

yes, i am referring to the one that dave and i worked out, was published in 9 Magazine (i'm working on getting that article up in the free DIY section on the magazine's website), and is featured at 968 engineering - dave sourced out the rings, and sells them from there, as well as the well nuts for improved retension of the box - i highly recommend getting both



we did test a similar setup to the airtek - it didn't do as well

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[Kunz]

Thanks, Flash!



If it really works that well, it is the easiest solution to go to!

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[flash]

trust me - we were as skeptical as you are - we tested it very thoroughly - stunned the heck out of us - we couldn't stop shaking our heads and laughing - it really does work



and what's more, it passes in racing too - things forward of the air cleaner are free

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[Leonard]

What about leaving the snorkel in and removing the rubber around the snorkel. I like the idea of the filter sucking air from outside the engine compartment. It could still get air from around th snorkel..no?

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[Greimann]

[quote name='Leonard' date='Mar 27 2006, 11:47 AM']What about leaving the snorkel in and removing the rubber around the snorkel. I like the idea of the filter sucking air from outside the engine compartment. It could still get air from around th snorkel..no?

[right][post="18094"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

If the concern is about sucking warm air from the engine compartment, don't worry about it. When the car is in motion, that area is awash in cool outside air. If you sit at a stoplight, it will warm up abit, but moving it is cool. This was tested with a temperature gauge. The key part of the air flow is to remove the snorkel so all the holes can get the air.

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[jeffm40]

Dave,

I just completed the airbox modification. Thanks for getting me the rings so quickly. I love the deepened moan from the engine. Can't really tell a difference in the butt-o-meter but I take you guys word for the increase in HP. I only had a 2" hole saw so I used my Dremel tool with a circular sand head to hone the holes to the correct diameter. The fit was very snug and tight, then I used a 2 part Epoxy and finished the inside of the box to a factory look. I did wrestle with the rubber mounts on the bottom of the box but finally got them in place. I would recommend buying your solution!!

Again, thanks for all the help

Jeff

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[Leonard]

Thanks Dave,



I appreciate the information. Thanks for the prompt shipment of my parts as well. Very happy with all!

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[Greimann]

Cheers guys.

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[Harvey]

[quote name='jeffm40' date='Mar 30 2006, 01:00 PM']Dave,

I just completed the airbox modification.  .... I only had a 2" hole saw so I used my Dremel tool with a circular sand head to hone the holes to the correct diameter.......

[right][post="18283"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I bought the rings but can't find a hole saw the right size. Is 2" the best size to use?



Harvey

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[flash]

if you really can't find the right one, though it shouldn't be too tough, you can get one of those "universal" ones and probably make it work

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[Greimann]

Sounds like you need to have a talk with your hardware store manager. 2 1/8" hole saws should be a standard item. Otherwise I'm sure you could find it online.

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