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What's that noise ?
#81

according to what i have been told, that is not on the tiptronic cars.  it has an entirely different setup than the 6 speed cars.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#82

Now there is an added noise symptom in certain conditions ; while the smooth rumbling noise in sharp, accelerating right hand turns has not gotten any worse or changed in characteristic , sometimes, and almost always when the road surface is even a little wet, taking off from a stop quicker than usual ( but not stomping on it, just maybe pushing the gas pedal half way down ) produces a noise from that same right rear wheel area that sounds like a bunch of large rocks clonking inside a burlap sac, and it really also feels as if the wheel is slipping / skipping a bit in the process as well. Those rumbling rocks sound is much more pronounced when taking off uphill ( never downhill , I've tried that ) but pretty audible even on level surface, particularly if the ground is wet. Does that symptom lead to narrowing down the possible culprit ?
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#83

I keep it at a worn wheelbearing.

I replaced them.at te right rear side twice in 14 years.

It makes a wonkytonky grinding noise.

Changing the bearing is an two hour job.

But you have to loose the nut from the axle. This one is tightend with 500nm. You need a big heavy tool for that and a lot of muscle power.


And inside the tip. There is no lsd I can asure you. I opened the differential long time ago when I supected the bearings. And there is only a differential inside and no lsd.
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#84

Dan,

 

87 Posts and you still don't believe it's a wheel bearing???

 

:glare:

 

Jay

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#85

out of the 87 posts , only a handful suggested  it  " could be " the wheel bearing..    but yes, will get that one changed .   maybe my former mechanic seriously overstated the work associated with changing the REAR wheel bearing on these cars, because when I had that done many years ago on the six speed, I recall a very hefty cost ( definitely not only two hours worth ..) , more like $ 800 + labor IIRC .  he did say the front wheels is a relatively easy job, but the rear is a nightmare 
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#86

You will take of the wheel after loosing the nut. And remove the brake caliper and the disc. After that you remove the axle and than. Take a big M24 spindle with fitting rings and pull the hub. After that remove the ring and then pull the bearing out of the aluminium trailerarm.


It took me two houres. But I am trained.?
Bearing cost 100 bucks.
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#87

With the right tools you can do it without removing all from the underside of the car and without an alignment.
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#88

Understood, thanks - my current mechanic-friend charges far less than my previous one and I can lend another set of hands and some heavy leverage / " muscle " if necessary ..so it won't be as bad ...unless things are seized up with age , rust , etc...
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#89

Quote:I can lend another set of hands and some heavy leverage / " muscle "  ...unless things are seized up with age , rust , etc...
 You are describing yourself, right?  Beer

 

j/k

 

Jay

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#90

That's too funny , never realized it at time I wrote that but ( sigh..) yes, your observation is not entirely wrong , lmao..
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#91

It is a porsche 968. Never had the experience that things are seized up..


Only the screw from thervs plate inside the brakecaliper...
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#92

In both of my 968s, there have been quite a few situations where bolts, nuts, sensors, ( anything with a thread practically ) would not budge, and some of which even broke because of metal fatigue. In fairness , the tip may have had some rust on those parts, but you'd think the six speed which has never seen even a drop of rain would not have those issues . And my former mechanic always used anti-seize, but some things were set in place, undisturbed for 20 + years so it's likely time has taken its toll on them. Both my previous mechanic, and my current one have every specialized tool imaginable to work on these cars and even with those some jobs took exponentially longer and an extraordinary effort needed vs. what " the book says " or what theory would suggest is needed. Quite a few times the threads stripped and the thing had to be re-drilled / tapped .


The most recent examples : the oxygen sensor replacement which took hours, upon hours, upon hours of brief back and forth unscrewing attempts, followed by a variety of loosening agents sprayed to help the cause, wait, repeat , wait, repeat , so on and so forth and only half a day later, it finally gave in.  Voltage regulator : an otherwise 10 minute job, took my mechanic almost two hours . And I was there in person for both of those jobs the entire time so it's not as if I was " ripped off " by fake labor charges ..

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#93

Glad that my 968 has respect for me.?
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#94

I had the arnworx tool for the rear wheel bearings, with a 500nm impact gun did both sides in two hours, with new bolts in the cv joints


The bearings are the same as 5 series BMW, Alko trailers also use the same size, 42x80x42 deep groove dual row bearing


The total cost including parts was $100, I did this job end of last year just before my open heart surgery


Since then I have replaced both front bearings total cost $60, new front and rear rotors and EBC red brake pads (less dust)
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#95

So just as an educational note for me - what happens to a bearing when it " goes bad " and causes it to make noise ? The reason I ask is that I thought since they're packed in grease , it's when that grease loses its propensities , gets too thin , etc that expises the bearing to maybe touch something and that's where the noise comes from , but since I need to replace the bering , as opposed to just repack the grease in there , I was wondering what wear and tear happens to the bearing itself ; grooves, pits, cracks, what ?
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#96

When you slam with a hammer on top of the bearing. Nothing will happen directly but after a couple of thousand miles it goes make noise. A low grinding noise. I can not describe it at an other way.

The bearing at the back is closed so cannot be repacked.


Otherwise there are many reasons why bearings go bad. Maybe hit a bump in the past or to much with a cleaner on the wheels.


So press the bearing inside and do not use a hammer while you are in there.
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#97

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5kf5pXl4w

 

The grease that the manufacturer uses is less than great, caused a bunch of failures on track cars. Taking them apart and re packing with quality grease solved the problem 

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#98

Quote:https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5kf5pXl4w

 

The grease that the manufacturer uses is less than great, caused a bunch of failures on track cars. Taking them apart and re packing with quality grease solved the problem 
 

Excellent! Add that to my list Smile

 

Jay
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#99

Had the bearing replaced today . I won't be able to do much until Monday when the car has been driven for at least an hour and gets hot enough to test if those noises are no longer present and if it was indeed the bearing . I sure hope so, this was not an easy job.
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Bad to hear that it was not an easy job for you. What gives you the most nerves of the job? Getting the nut loose or? Getting the bearing out the arm?

Bad to hear that it was not an easy job for you. What gives you the most nerves of the job? Getting the nut loose or? Getting the bearing out the arm?
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