[tamathumper]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1338165352' post='127492']

yes, it's possible. it won't likely happen the first time you do it though.



no, the DIY is not done. now i have an even bigger challenge, as the system on which i could edit the footage is about to die.

[/quote]

This is probably the best way to put it in my experience. Possible, but unlikely in one try. I've tensioned mine twice, both using the "twist" method and the "push it into the water pump" method, and it still whines too much for my taste so I'll be doing it again. I believe that the whine is caused by the toothed belt running over the smooth idler, but I can't be certain. It only takes about an hour at most to get in there and make the adjustment(s).

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[gbarrier]

The purist won't like it but yes it is good enough. From a vendor like Zimms you can get all your belts and a rebuilt pump for around $200. Face it, you're always three years or less away from a change on the belts and the rebuilt pumps are fine. Swap it out every couple of belt changes. Check the rollers and if they show wear you'll need to get what needs fixing but they go a long time.



I'm sure others will differ from this opinion so let your conscience be your guide.

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[astroede]

Ordered the Gates belts, the flywheel lock, the water pump gasket, radiator hose and the front balance shaft seals. Should I be replacing the crankshaft seal as well? We'll see what the situation is with the water pump when I get the other stuff removed.

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[tamathumper]

How many miles on the car? If the seals aren't leaking, I'd leave them alone. Just my $.02.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1338248270' post='127532']

How many miles on the car? If the seals aren't leaking, I'd leave them alone. Just my $.02.

[/quote]

I agree.

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[astroede]

Just shy of 78K miles. No oil leaks.

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[tamathumper]

Too many stories of good seals being replaced "while you're in there" only to end up leaking through several frustrating reiterations of the process.

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[astroede]

Once I get the belts and pulleys etc off, and I have a view to the water pump, it is possible I won't see where it is leaking. It is not leaking while the engine is off, at least not to any great extent. Of course I suspect the water pump, but is there an easy method to pressure test the cooling system to make the leak appear again if I need to? I do have compressed air available.

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[tamathumper]

This might help.



http://www.harborfreight.com/radiator-pr...65053.html

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[Lear35A]

I have jury rigged a system and pressure tested my coolant system. Frankly it was a real pain. Unfortunately I did not take a picture, but essentially it is like the Harbor Freight set up plus a bunch more. You need hoses of the right size, a pressure gauge, some valves help, plugs, etc, etc. You asked if was possible, not whether or not it was easy. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='astroede' timestamp='1338289046' post='127546']

Once I get the belts and pulleys etc off, and I have a view to the water pump, it is possible I won't see where it is leaking. It is not leaking while the engine is off, at least not to any great extent. Of course I suspect the water pump, but is there an easy method to pressure test the cooling system to make the leak appear again if I need to? I do have compressed air available.

[/quote]



I use paper , blue colored paper works the best , even a tiny leak wil make a dark blue spot on the paper .

First you need to clean and dry everything , then use the paper and press it against the suspicious spot , if there is the smallest leak it wil show .

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[astroede]

Thanks, I will definitely go with the visual / paper method first! Soon as I get my flywheel lock and remove the belts / pulleys, I'll let you know what I find.

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[tamathumper]

Rereading your first post I had this exact symptom when the largest end of the coolant hose was a little loose. There was no problem behind the belt covers, and a firm tightening of the large hose clamp solved my problem. I also experienced low coolant from the slow drip, and it was apparently close enough to have blown from wind or the fans over onto the belt cover.

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[astroede]

Yeah, I tightened the crap out of the clamp on that end, and there is no evidence of any leakage in that area. I'm going to replace the hose though and retighten to be sure. It will drive me nuts until I find out what the problem is.

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[tamathumper]

Good luck!

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[Ryan]

I would run the engine with the belt cover removed to see if the W/P is leaking. Just because it was done 2k ago doesn't mean it isn't leaking at the shaft and not the gasket. It would be a shame to replace the gasket and put it all back together only to find out it still leaks.

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[flash]

re: parts list - didn't i already post that?



i'll look, and if i don't find it, i'll start a thread

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[astroede]

Ryan, thank you for pointing out to me what should have been obvious...look for the leak with the pulley covers off and the engine running! It does appear to be leaking from the seal, not the gasket! See photos with the engine running below. When I rev the engine hot, it leaks in a little stream...and I'd say that would be characteristic of a leaky seal, agree? So, wise Porsche sages, which rebuilt water pump source do you recommend?

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[Cloud9...68]

I'm happy with the one I got from Paragon. As I recall, it was somewhere around $130.

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[DaveN]

This is the new one both Langley and I bought, no troubles so far.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-PORSCHE-968-3...3286wt_880

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