06-25-2014, 06:14 PM
Hi all,
My temperature gauge needle has taken to sitting steadily on the first white mark once the engine has warmed up (the one Clark's Garage shows as 80º), just occasionally venturing slightly above. It seems to take the same amount of time as always to reach the first mark. Previously, it would gradually rise up to the next mark in traffic (100º), at which point the fans would kick in and drop it back down to the first mark. The fans still appear to be operating/responding normally.
I've tested the gauge with a 500Ω potentiometer according to the procedure on the Clark's Garage site and, although the marks on my gauge don't correspond exactly with the resistances given, the needle moves smoothy as the resistance changes, from ≈287Ω at the bottom (40º) mark to ≈1Ω at the "oh bugger, that's the engine gone then" maximum mark.
On that basis, I've ordered a replacement temperature sender but it looks like a right bugger of a job, tucked in under the inlet manifold, with precious little leeway on the connectors into the bargain! Is there anything I need to bear in mind when changing it? Am I likely to lose a lot of coolant and need to bleed and top up the system after the job? Any other tips for replacing it, given the confined space under the manifold?
Thanks in advance,
Michael
My temperature gauge needle has taken to sitting steadily on the first white mark once the engine has warmed up (the one Clark's Garage shows as 80º), just occasionally venturing slightly above. It seems to take the same amount of time as always to reach the first mark. Previously, it would gradually rise up to the next mark in traffic (100º), at which point the fans would kick in and drop it back down to the first mark. The fans still appear to be operating/responding normally.
I've tested the gauge with a 500Ω potentiometer according to the procedure on the Clark's Garage site and, although the marks on my gauge don't correspond exactly with the resistances given, the needle moves smoothy as the resistance changes, from ≈287Ω at the bottom (40º) mark to ≈1Ω at the "oh bugger, that's the engine gone then" maximum mark.
On that basis, I've ordered a replacement temperature sender but it looks like a right bugger of a job, tucked in under the inlet manifold, with precious little leeway on the connectors into the bargain! Is there anything I need to bear in mind when changing it? Am I likely to lose a lot of coolant and need to bleed and top up the system after the job? Any other tips for replacing it, given the confined space under the manifold?
Thanks in advance,
Michael