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Steering Universal Joint Shaft - How Much Play?
#21

Could one of you guys in the good old US of A tape measure the steering shaft length across the universal joints centre to centre and post it here. Ta.
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#22

Ta? English please? Lol
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#23

Preacher Rap is in the house!
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#24

Been thinking about how this should work re bearing assemblies that are replaceable. It should be done in the manner of a CNC lathe recirculating ball screw. It is tied at one end and the play is taken up at the other end. That means a thrust race then on the other side of a barrier would be a ball race. On the opposite side of the spider would be another ball race, then a barrier to pull against then another thrust race then a lock ring with castellated lock washer to take up the slack. That would make it as free from play as you would get. The bearing assemblies would be in removable shouldered caps for easy changing out. Simple really.
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#25

There's a chap that's rebuilding LHD steering shafts. Seems like at present they cost around $200 or so. Seems legit.



http://www.emotorsports.org/prod02.htm
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-Matt

1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)

1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)

2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)

 
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#26

Doesn't look very good around the dust seals, paint just clattered on.
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#27

Bought a used one with very little, or no play with a call to Oklahoma foreign last year.

Cost about $25.

Brian
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#28

Silvy,



How bad was the play in your original steering shaft?
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#29

The price for a brand new RH drive shaft was about $150/160ish last year. The shaft is longer than US types. Must be a less direct path, Top yoke runs near the exhaust outlet. I also checked 968 power steering versus 944 manual racks and the notch for the locking bolt is orientated very similarly.
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#30

cloud 968,

About 1-1.5 inches at the steering wheel.

Amazing what we get used to if it changes gradually.

If it lets go when you are on the freeway...no good...bang and smash.

Brian
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#31

[quote name='SILVY968' timestamp='1378262752' post='148670']

cloud 968,

About 1-1.5 inches at the steering wheel.

Amazing what we get used to if it changes gradually.

If it lets go when you are on the freeway...no good...bang and smash.

Brian

[/quote]



Crikey, I feel a bit better about my 3-4mm now!



Michael
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'95 968 Sport

'73 VW GT Beetle
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#32

3-4 mm. I wouldn't worry about it unless there is a clear issue with a particular item.
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'92 Midnight Blue 968 Coupe

'94 ProbeGT, Eaton SC@9psi, Quaife, TecGT ECU, 300+HP, body sold, parting out

'98 3000GT VR-4, 400+HP AWD beast, didn't fit w/race helmet, Sold

'93 Bone Stock MX-6 Sold (in '05) sadly to the crusher in 2010

'61 Triumph TR-3, White with red leather interior; My First Car
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#33

[quote name='MB968' timestamp='1378345872' post='148737']

3-4 mm. I wouldn't worry about it unless there is a clear issue with a particular item.

[/quote]



There's very noticeable play in the top UJ, whereas the joints on the new shaft are smooth and tight - absolutely zero play, as Flash said. For the comparatively small cost of the new part I'd rather it was right <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Michael
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'95 968 Sport

'73 VW GT Beetle
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#34

yeah - steering is not an area where i would mess around. i've had a steering failure before. not what i would call fun.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#35

Sounds like you had a clear issue with one of the parts; I'd be looking to replace it too.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

'92 Midnight Blue 968 Coupe

'94 ProbeGT, Eaton SC@9psi, Quaife, TecGT ECU, 300+HP, body sold, parting out

'98 3000GT VR-4, 400+HP AWD beast, didn't fit w/race helmet, Sold

'93 Bone Stock MX-6 Sold (in '05) sadly to the crusher in 2010

'61 Triumph TR-3, White with red leather interior; My First Car
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#36

Yep <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Are grade 8.8 bolts up to the job for the UJ pinch bolts, or do they need to be high-tensile bolts?



Michael
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'95 968 Sport

'73 VW GT Beetle
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#37

As I recall from replacing one of my u-joint bolts, there are 8.8. But, check the parts list. If it doesn't ident. the grade, check the torque specs which will indirectly tell you the grade.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

'92 Midnight Blue 968 Coupe

'94 ProbeGT, Eaton SC@9psi, Quaife, TecGT ECU, 300+HP, body sold, parting out

'98 3000GT VR-4, 400+HP AWD beast, didn't fit w/race helmet, Sold

'93 Bone Stock MX-6 Sold (in '05) sadly to the crusher in 2010

'61 Triumph TR-3, White with red leather interior; My First Car
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#38

Thanks <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Michael
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'95 968 Sport

'73 VW GT Beetle
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#39

Hi all,



We swapped the shaft out today and were surprised at how painless the job was, given our previous experience with 'old' cars <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



We did the job with the car standing on her wheels (on Race Ramps for access - worth their weight in gold!). We removed the four bolts holding the steering rack to the cross-member, which allowed enough forward movement of the rack to carefully draw it off the bottom universal joint without removing the rack completely or disconnecting anything else. All-in-all, a mercifully straightforward job!



Having now been underneath and had a good look around however, I see new caster blocks in my future!



Michael
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'95 968 Sport

'73 VW GT Beetle
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#40

Anxious to hear how much the new shaft reduced your steering play.
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