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Steering rack rebuild
#1

I would like to share some of the pictures I'm taking during the process of rebuilding my power steering rack. I know this is documented on a couple other places but I struggled with the level of detail. I hope these photos will help somebody doing this. I will post pictures as I progress with my project.



I have no idea how to attach the photos to the post so you will need to check the photos here



http://gallery.me.com/piresz#100147



The only issue I have had so far was on the removal of the inner tie rods. They will require a lot of leverage on the 30 mm spanner. I ended up using a piece of pipe after the notch locking the inner rods to the steering rack was removed. The other problem I have is a stuck banjo bolt. I will be cutting the bolt latter this week. I ordered new banjo bolts with hex heads from Jason (Paragon).
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#2

Great! I know Cloud9..68 went through this same process recently (and complained about it a lot). I'll be doing the same in the near future. What special tools do you need apart from sockets and spanners? I imagine seal pullers, but any in specific?
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#3

The 30 mm and the pipe was the only special tool so far. Everything was easy to remove but the banjo bolts. I would recommend anyone doing this to replace the banjo bolts. They cost US$6.50 from Paragon, there may be other providers. The only seal that was a bit more complicated to remove was the one inside the body. I used a regular home depot torch to make the area where the seal is located a bit warm and used a screw driver with the tip bent to slowly pull it up. I use this screw driver to install small springs on my racing bikes. I will post a picture of the screw driver latter today when I'm back home.



I'm putting it back together tonight and will post the assembly pictures latter tonight or at the end of the week. One last note regarding tools...I used a press and sockets to install remove the other seals (2). The press I have is nothing special...Northen tools or Harbour Freight. You can also use a hammer and the sockets for sure.
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#4

Excellent explaining every thing through pictures
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#5

Added a few more pictures. As you will see my major issue so far was to remove a banjo bolt. Took me about 30 minutes and a drill. The seal inside was removed over 20 minutes or so. I used socket to drive the seal a bit further down to break any kind of bonding between the seal and the pump body. Heat applied in the area and worked the seal up using my spring installation screw driver.
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#6

Due to shipping lag time, having to order a banjo bolt midway through the job would leave me a month without the steering rack, so good advice there. What size hex head socket do you need to get that bolt out normally? I'd like to make sure I have the tools and everything sorted prior to starting this. Will you replace the inner & outer tie-rod ends at the same time?



I don't have a press, so I'll have to pick something up locally.
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#7

You really don't need the press, a hammer will be just fine. I will post pictures of the tools I used. The banjo bolts that came on the car are an allen head 6 mm. I'm replacing with hex head banjo bolts. I shouldn't have to open this again for quite some time but since I stripped on head I didn't want to deal with the trouble again in the future if I had to.



I may be going to Chile towards the end of July. If you are close to Santiago we can meet for a drink.
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#8

Not too close to Santiago, but close enough that I can swing a weekend trip. It'd be nice to compare notes on our cars and complain about their former maintainers.
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#9

hello, I know this is off subject but could not find how to start new post. Does anyone know what this part is and should it have grease or oil onit or is some thing leaking? thanks[img]jpg[/img] Forget it I can not post a picture, keeps saying problem???
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#10

Where's the part located?
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#11

A few more photos posted. Tomorrow I may install the new hex head banjo bolts and finish this part of the project.
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#12

Does any one have an idaea what it would cost to replace the steering rack at a dealer? I have an estimate of $3,500.??
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#13

Wow. That's crazy. A rebuilt unit should run you around $300, and should take probably at most 3 or 4 hours to change out by a competent mechanic. Are they using a brand new rack?
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#14

Hell, for $3,500 I could probably install a new rack on my wife. Hard to believe it's that much to put one on her car?!
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#15

ok - that's funny



3500 is outrageous, but that is a new part, and not a rebuilt aftermarket part.



i'd go the rebuilt unit, and take it to a local shop that knows what they are doing. it's not a tough job. the issue will be the alignment afterward, but this is your chance to really get that nailed down.



going that route, i'd guess about a grand including alignment
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#16

Flash,



I agree 100%.$950 total for me.



I had my PM install a $300 re-built steering rack last December. 4.5 hours plus a $100 alignment. No leaks or problems what so ever.



You are getting screwed, or getting a NOS rack from Porsche...stupid price.



P.S. I like the wife-rack comment, but it is closer to 5K...don't ask me how I know.

brian
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#17

Silvy, sounds like you installed the OEM rack. I'd go aftermarket. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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