[EEZATOY]

Ok this whaT I have and plan to do...



Door Speakers Infinity Kappa 52.5i (5.25") RMS 55w Frequency Resp 55Hz - 21KHz

Rear Speakers Infinity Kappa 652.5I (6.75")RSM 75W Frequency Resp 45Hz - 21KHz

Subwoofer for back right cubby Image Dynamics (8")

Current Head unit is a Rockford Fosegate RFX8330 40Wx4 channel



I plan on making a sealed Sub box to fit the rear cubby with its own dedicated amp.

and bridging the sub.



So my questions start with



Crossover Questions?

The infinities come with their own crossovers

I don't know if the rear speakers currently have crossover installed, but I believe the fronts do - so should I go with the porsche crossovers or the new Infinity's?

Or more complicated - with fronts having the split for the mids and the tweeter - could I splice into the wires before the porsche crossover and add the infinity to run directly to to them but continue the original wire the p-crossover for the tweeters? if that makes sense.



Caps/Bass blockers

With the Sub I should put some caps on the infinity's - right? So what and where would I install them? before the crossovers?



More Power?

I want to see how it sounds when I get it together - but any thoughts on needing a separate amp for the speakers? and if so How powerful



Thanks Sam

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[flash]

wow - ok - point by point



many amps for the sub have its own crossover, and bridge switch, so nothing required there



i'm working on my sub today and tomorrow as well - same idea - sealed box in the cubby with amp right there - just picked up the wood yesterday



i have the same infinity fronts and am using the porsche tweeters - i just plugged them in - no crossover changes, however, i have yet to find a crossover in the car - i do not have the mids - you do? if so, do not add another crossover - at least, do not mix crossovers - use only one, not both - ohm load is critical - you cannot add more speakers than the setup is prepared to handle, nor can you add the resistance of an additional crossoever, regardless of where you cut in in the signal path - if you have a 3 way crossover, you can use 3 speakers per side - if you only have a 2 way, you can only use 2 speakers



this is also where a parametric eq gets critical



i am using caps in my system, though on the rears, i don't actually "need" to - the speakers are capable of handling the frequency, but they do not reproduce it with the efficiency i would like, so i cut them off - this is where you have to listen to it and see what you think for yourself - sound is very subjective



adding power is not a problem in and of itself (as long as the speakers can handle it) - if you choose the right amp, you can end up with a cleaner sound, but if you choose the wrong amp, you could easily make things worse - also, you would need a pair of amp channels for fron and a pair for rear, and each would need its own feed from the deck in order to maintain fader control



i hope this helps - if you have any other questions, please feel free to call me - i think you have my number

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[EEZATOY]

Flash,



Thanks for the response (i would have called but I can't locate your number) My choice of sub and amp are from listening to Ron's (aka SilverBLT) though I am still planing to make a sealed box to fit the cubby - sounds like I can just install the fronts ok (no mids) - I'll have to check the rears to see if theres a crossover in there? Where have you installed your caps and what frequencies are they set for? and yes I know your position on the use of a parametric eq...



Thanks Sam

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[flash]

you have a pm

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[Brian]

flash, i'm very curious to hear what you come up with for your sub enclosure.

will you be posting when you get it sorted out?

let me know when you're comfortable with your results.

i'll probably work on mine over the winter holidays while i wait for the snow to go away.



eez, i have rockford fosgate amps that i'm very happy with. they have built-in crossovers in them. i'm sure other brand amps do as well. the nice thing about having the xover in the amp is that you can easily adjust the frequency on the fly. a lot of receivers have xovers in them, too. i have a sony xplod in my car that i'm extremely happy with. it has xovers and an eq as well.

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[flash]

i have the idea laid out - i have not built it yet - i'm waiting for 2 things first



1. me ot get off my lazy butt and try to see i the battery will drop down into the right cubby (i want to move the battery to the right rear cubby (the brits have it in the lfft) and the sub would go in the left)



2. some cable routing info from the UK on where they ran the batery cable



i should have that handled in the next 24 hours - i have the wood - plans to build box by this weekend



just for info - the amp i am using has a sweepable crossover, both hpf and lpf, a gain contol and a frequency accentuation control - 300W bridged mono - should be good

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[Brian]

whoa - 300w? is that 2 ohm? i've got one that's 150w at 4 ohm. it pushes so hard that my rear shelf vibrates.

when you get your sub in, let me know if you have rear shelf vibration issues. i have my top up so seldom that i'm just now realizing that my rear shelf vibrates with the top up and the sub at a decent level. i'm wondering if there's a way to secure it better?

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[flash]

oops - my bad - 2 x 200W @ 2 ohm or 1 x 200W at 4ohm @ thd of .05% - i think i read on the website that it was 1 x 300 @ 2ohm, but it's not in the manual



i won't have any rear shelf vibration issues, since i deleted the rear shelf (but i can check the attic and see if it's buzzing)



there are 2 nuts in the rear and 2 bolts on the sides that hold the shelf in place - take a look at them - also, the brackets that attach to the shelf and go to the side bolts are held down with acorn nuts on phillips head screws - the screw heads are under the carpet, and you have to peel it back to get to them



failing any of that being the problem, get yourself some thick weather strip tape, remove the box and run it down all the edges of the box and reinstall - add some little rubber bumpers between the doors and the box too

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[Brian]

ahhhhh, i see what you're talking about.

thanks for the tip, but the cubby box is long gone in my car. i like it better with the rear seats open.

i probably should have been more clear. the shelf that's vibrating is the one just under the rear plastic windshield and above the rear seat backs.

i'm wondering if something is wrong with it, because it appears to be bowed in the middle up away from the seat backs. i wonder if it's supposed to look that way? i'll try and snap a picture and post it when i get the chance.

i'm leaning toward your idea of "shimming" it to tighten it up in some clean kind of way.

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[flash]

ah - sorry - ok - that one has a bunch of plastic clips that hold it down - it's possible somebody popped them in a repair back there on either the top motors, or the top itself



it should not be bowed up - it's a real pain to get lined up right, and ou need all the clips for it to be right, but when it is, it's nice and flat, and doesn't buzz

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