[Jamie '92 968]

I've never changed out my spark plugs before and could use some advice.

First, since the plugs sit way down inside the cam cover, I assume I won't be able to get my hand down there to hand thread the new plugs.
Is there any concern for crossing threads when I put the new plugs in? Is there a trick/technique for getting it right?

Also, I have been told that you should put some sort of lubricant? on the threads of the new plugs. Does anybody know what this is?

Anything else I should be on the look out for?

Didn't find anything when searching the forum on this topic. Maybe too basic for most.
Yes, I'm clueless ... but learning.

Thanks!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[DiREW0LF]

A sparkplug socket with a rubber insert helps when installing new plugs since it holds them when the socket is held vertical. Either way you will want to start them by hand using a socket and extension. As for a "lubricant", you will want to use high temp anti-sieze on the threads. The main reason for this being the head is aluminum and the plug is steel.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[barth7]

If you have the factory tool kit, there should be a long, funny looking socket with a u-joint & spring in the middle. That's the purpose of it.

Some people that know more than I do say not to put the silver anti-seize on the plugs - just copper. Moly grease is highly regarded on the threads, as well.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[DiREW0LF]

I think pretty much all of the anti-sieze thats rated for high temp is copper.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SILVY968]

What is the plug that most have decided is the best?
Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SILVY968]

<!--quoteo(post=68666:date=Mar 16 2009, 10:39 AM:name=DiREW0LF)-->QUOTE (DiREW0LF @ Mar 16 2009, 10:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I think pretty much all of the anti-seize thats rated for high temp is copper.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Permatex copper anti-seize lubricant is the only Permatex product recommended for spark plus threads in <b>aluminum</b> heads.
I too have been using the silver standard stuff that I use for general assembly. I have read PM posts that say not to use anti-seize of any kind due to poor electrical contact between the plug and the head. I have noticed a bit of "hunting" at idle that got way worse with a bad rotor/cap, which I have replaced.
I'll clean the silver anti-seize from the plugs this weekend and use the copper; maybe there will be a difference. Permatex also says that the copper product provides superior electrical conductivity.
We shall see.
Anyone else using regular anti-seize on their plugs?
Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i have been, but i haven't seen any problems - not looking for any either though, and since i am going to change my plugs again in the next few days, i'll run the copper stuff to be safe

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Jamie '92 968]

I love this forum.

Thanks, all, for the info.

I'm on vacation next week, but will likely swap my plugs the weekend after. Need to get to the auto parts store...

I'm anxious to see if it helps the problem I've been having on acceleration at low RPM. I've pretty much convinced myself that it's an engine stumble that got better after a MAF cleaning at Pete's, but has returned and seems to be getting progressively worse.

Only question I still have is if the plugs I buy will need to be "gapped". If so, I'm assuming that the gap requirement will be specified somewhere in the owner's manual. What I don't know, is how do you change the gap? Anything special I need to know? (Clueless...)

Thanks again.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i cannot speak to other plugs, as i use ngk iridium exclusively on this car - i have checked the gap on a number of sets (at least 4 of the at least 10 i have put in the cars) - they have always been correctly pre-gapped

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SILVY968]

<!--quoteo(post=68719:date=Mar 17 2009, 07:27 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Mar 17 2009, 07:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i have been, but i haven't seen any problems - not looking for any either though, and since i am going to change my plugs again in the next few days, i'll run the copper stuff to be safe<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Went looking today and found Loctite C5-A coper anti-seize STICK.
Way better than the drippy bottle.
Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SILVY968]

removed the plugs and cleaner off the silver anti seize.
put on the copper and I do notice a slightly smoother idle.
In any case, it is what we should be using.
Unless you are having idle issues, next plug change, I would suggest the copper product to all.
Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Jamie '92 968]

Hey folks!
Back from vacation and I finally had a chance to replace my plugs.

Thanks to all for the advice, especially barth7's info about the special plug tool in the toolkit. Nothing like having the right tool for the job. I may need to post another question about the purpose of some of the other items in that kit, as some are not as obvious as the plug wrench... but that's for another day.

I went with the NGK Iridium at your suggestion, Flash. Thanks.

Good news,
The car idles much smoother, has noticeably more power, and for a day and a half now the intermittent shudder/stumble I was having on hard acceleration at low RPM is finally GONE!

One snag in the process. Although the car initially ran great for a day, it then developed a rough idle and frequent stumbles at low RPM. I tightened the plugs again, and the problem went away. Running great again. I'm not 100% positive that this problem was a loose plug or an intermittent wire contact issue.
Should I be using a torque wrench? I don't want to over tighten them.

A couple other observations:
1) The plugs I replaced were black and in VERY bad shape. It was a surprise that they would be this far gone after just 40K miles. A friend suggested that this may have been caused by my MAF sensor problem, recently fixed by Pete at RS Barn (Thanks again Pete!) causing the engine to run rich. Any thoughts?

2) There was a little bit of oil pooled around the plugs. Only enough to sit in the corner of the recess, not touching the plug itself. Where is this coming from? Should I be concerned.

3) In the recess around the first plug (closest to the front of the car) there was some light brown colored foam on the walls near the plug. Is this an indicator of a problem?

Thanks again for all the help!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

<!--quoteo(post=69675:date=Mar 31 2009, 01:04 PM:name=Jamie '92 968)-->QUOTE (Jamie '92 968 @ Mar 31 2009, 01:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->3) In the recess around the first plug (closest to the front of the car) there was some light brown colored foam on the walls near the plug. Is this an indicator of a problem?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

+1 Interesting, the same closest to front plug, but I had more of an orange color residue on the walls and the rubber plug cover. It was completely dry, almost like a thick dust coating so whatever it was, it's not fresh... but what the heck could that be ?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RPM]

<!--quoteo-->QUOTE <!--quotec-->There was a little bit of oil pooled around the plugs.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

You are most likely getting blow by through your valve cover gasket. A new gasket should do the trick - and a great opportunity to inspect the cams, chain, and tensioner.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

what's the torque setting for plugs ?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

18-22 ft lbs

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

So far no luck on finding the copper anti-seize from Permatex or Loctite in any stores I checked ( Pep Boys, Autozone, Kragen, Napa, Home Depot, OSH, ACE ..) Maybe an electrical parts specialty store, and if bnot there I guess the only other choice will be online

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Scott Collins]

I had some oil sitting on top of the cam cover. I cleaned the surfaces and replaced the worn gasket and o-ring for the vario-cam unit and that did the trick. It's one of the easiest and cheapest repairs you can do yourself.



-Scott

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Jamie '92 968]

I actually just had the cam cover gasket replaced in January... and had the cam pads checked when the car was at Pete's in Feb.
(interesting that the dealer charged me 2 hrs labor for the job and Max had the cover off in about 3 minutes...)
Maybe the oil is residual from before the repair. Will try to clean it out and see if it comes back.

Still wondering about the brown foam in the recess by the front plug. Perhaps the orange residue that ds968 refers to is old dried out foam like mine.
Anybody else ever see this?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

changed my plugs today. holy crap, the old ones looked awful - totally burned out, brown.. yuk! oddly enough, the car ran perfectly, very strong pull, smooth acceleration, not the slightest symptom indicating the plugs are shot ! 30k miles on them since last change, btw.

is this a sign of anything not quite in order, or par for these cars ?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.