[caffine]

When replacing the stock struts and rear shocks - should the mounting bolts be replaced as well? Since the nuts are the locking variety I'll be sourcing them for sure. (100K miles on vehicle) <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[chudson]

I just ordered the bolts that attach the struts to the spindles yesterday. I am building new strut assemblies complete from wheel bearing dust cap to top strut mount dust cap including new calipers and rotors. My original stock strut assembly will go into storage and the new coil over assembly will be installed. Obviously I needed new bolts to accomplish this without dismantling the original unit.



It's not common in the industry to replace these bolts when changing struts but since they are loosened and retightened every time the camber is adjusted AND fastener engineers claim that critical fasteners should be torqued only 3 - 4 times before discard you may want to. Sunset's price was cheap.

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[flash]

agreed - while most people don't do it, if you stop to think about the consequences of having it slip, it seems like a no brainer



a good example of one that should be replaced is the rear camber adjuster - it is known to slip under heavy load (ask me how i know)

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[chudson]

LOL - understood and thanx for the heads up. I'll add those to my order! I'm an anti-slip guy!

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[flash]

there is also a fix to make sure it doesn't slip on the track - the turbo cup cars used to do it - put a bolt, nut, and 2 washers in the open slot to add resistance to plate slip

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[chudson]

Ah yes - good idea. More bolts - more better

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[Cloud9...68]

"there is also a fix to make sure it doesn't slip on the track - the turbo cup cars used to do it - put a bolt, nut, and 2 washers in the open slot to add resistance to plate slip"



I've been scratching my head as to the purpose of that empty slot... Sounds like a good idea - thanks

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