[Johannvb]

I need to replace my hall sender and I was wondering if there are any tips and tricks involved with this. Flash wrote the following in another topic

"remove valve cover - remove 2 screws at the back of the distrbutor - unplug cable - remove sender - plug in new sender, reverse order to reassemble"

This seems simple enough, but I have questions:


<ol type='1'>[*]Do I really have to remove the valve cover?[*]Is there a specific method of removing the valve cover?[*]Should a torque it in a specific sequence?</ol>Any advice will be appreciated. Once I am done with this job I will publish a DIY for this job.

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[PorscheDude]

Yes, that's it! It really is pretty simple.

Biggest thing to pay attention to is reinstalling the cam cover.
Make sure all mating surfaces are clean on the head and cam cover.
Pay attention to the bolt lengths for cam cover. There are 2 different bolts.
I'm not sure about the tightening sequence, but I like to start from
the center and go left, the from center to the right. I do it in 3 step till
I get to 7ft./.lbs.

DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE CAM COVER BOLTS!!!
The torque spec is 7ft.lbs.

If your gasket and grommets are getting old now is a good time to replace the gasket set.
Also a good time to inspect the the cams and pads.

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[flash]

also watch out for the hall sender cable - it loves to get caught under the valve cover

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[Johannvb]

Thanks guys, with some luck I should have the sensor in time for me to do it on Saturday and then off to the autobahn to see if I have more power [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

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[Cloud9...68]

Johann,

Is your car displaying symptoms of a bad hall sender, or are you replacing it as a preventative measure?

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[Johannvb]

I was at the Porsche dealer this morning to have my wheel alignment done. I have replaced so many sensors and cleaned so many other things over the past couple of months but I have not had a fault code readout done on it to see if the errors have gone.

I have solved the miss firing and the car no longer hunts, but even though it is running very smooth and sweet, some days it pulls like a rocket and other days it feels weak. After the mechanic ran the diagnosis the only fault that came up was an intermittent fault on the hall sender. I was not surprised by this and he then showed me that the plug is crumbling. He glued it back together again and the fault code did not come back, but I know it's just a matter of time before it breaks again.

Once the Hall sender is replaced I will have replaced all sensors other than the oxygen sensor. I think it cost be around 1000 euro to get this done, but this gives me peace of mind and the car feels brand new.

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[jlm968]

I have a similar issue, but wonder if another Hall sender and OEM female connector are necessary. Wouldn't parts store carry 3-prong connectors that could be spliced in?

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[flash]

yes, they could, but the wire they used is pretty thin and hard to work with - i tried it that way first, only to find out that the sender itself had failed and not just the intermittent connection, so i had to take it all apart and start over

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[jlm968]

In my car, both halves of the connector are brittle and broken. If I replace the sendor, is it difficult to replace the female connector (which is available by itself for about $15)?

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[PorscheDude]

The connector is a hard to repalce without a speacial tool to insert the pins.
I have a good hall sender with good connector.
$70 shipped in the US.

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[Johannvb]

That is a really good price, pity I'm half way across the earth [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

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[PorscheDude]

Yea, shipping would be a bargin killer.

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[flash]

not to spoil a sale, but i recently bought a brand new one for about $90 - the prices on those things go up and down

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[Johannvb]

Wow, the cheapest I can get it here is 220 euro. It is Porsche Original equipment, but still that is way of mark. Normally you will pay a 20% premium for geniune porsche parts.

Flash, where are you getting the sender from?

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[flash]

as i said, these things go up and down - porsche parts pricing is subject to a LOT of factors - each dealership is allowed to set their own price - how many are available also affects the price those dealerships pay - this can mean as much as a 100% difference from one place to the next at the same moment, and as much as a 200% difference over the course of a year - i've been stunned at how widely things vary

pretty sure i got it from pete, but if that doesn't work, sunset or pelican are usually the best OEM parts pricing - when i looked it up a minute ago on pelican, i got $136 which is 90EU

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...2C%20Each%20%20

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[Johannvb]

Thanks, I think even with shipping this is a better deal than the local Porsche dealer.

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[Johannvb]

I am having trouble removing the valve cover [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img]

I have all the bolts out and the cover is loose, but I cannot get it off. It seems to be stuck under the fuel lines.
What am I missing here?
Should I remove the fuel lines?
If I have to remove the fuel line, what is the best method?

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[banditsc]

Yes, loosen the fuel lines. Just undo the connections on top of the valve cover. You will probably want to make sure the system is de-pressurized before doing that, pull the DME relay and crank the engine. Then with two wrenches, hold one side of the fitting and turn the other (only one side turns).

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[JWahlsten]

For the fuel lines you need to counter hold the fittings to keep from twisting the lines. Both connections are 17mm and 19mm just in opposite configurations. You can let the car sit for a couple of hours and the fuel system will depressurize as well if you don't feel like pulling the relays.

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[Johannvb]

Thanks for the advice guys! I have successfully replaced the Hall sender. The toughest part was removing the valve cover.

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