[SILVY968]

Has anyone replaced the hall sensor?

If so, does it require cam cover removal or is it just the piece over the heater valve?

Any tips on how to remove and replace this piece?

Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BruceWard]

I have never touched it. But I suspect it will be easy. Why not pull the plug and see what you find underneath.



I have read reports of problems with the connector. Certainly it is worthwhile to pull the connector and look at it.



Or ask Raj I am sure he knows.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

talk to dan sandru - he just had his replaced not long ago

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BruceWard]

Since I am asking a question to a sponsor this may be moderated but what do people who "have had something replaced" know about whether or not replacement is a reasonable DIY activity?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

that kind of passive/aggressive comment is out of line



that kind of question should be offline



this is a request from the moderator i am passing along the line

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SILVY968]

It may be that after someone has had work done by a mechanic they have asked about how it was done and what was involved???



I asked Montey @ redmond european about it today and he said it takes about an hour. You can not get to the sensor without removing the value cover to get at the bolts holding on the cover that is over the sensor. Add a valve cover gasket to the parts list.



For 1 hour labor I'll have Montey do it. Jeff @ Sunset Motors in OR. gave me a great price on the sensor.



Thanks for all who tried to help.



For the next guy... read and decide.

Brian

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BruceWard]

You can not get to the sensor without removing the value cover to get at the bolts holding on the cover that is over the sensor. Add a valve cover gasket to the parts list.

It would be safer to have a valve cover gasket on hand. But many have removed the cover without needing to replace the gasket. The gasket that I damaged and is more difficult to source is the small gasket around the variocam solenoid. I was able to make a new one using gasket paper and a dremel.



The most important part of the process of removing the valve cover is to wake all the bolts before removing them and to use a small accurate torque wrench when replacing the bolts. Some have broken the bolt heads after which removal is a pain!



Eric S has Derek from Sweden's variocam inspection howto posted online at http://968s.com/DIYPDF/Procedure for inspection of Porsche 968 Camshafts.pdf://http://968s.com/DIYPDF/Procedure fo...8 Camshafts.pdf

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

aaaack!!!! reusing a gasket??? not in my lifetime, no matter how new or what it looks like - one drop of oil outa that thing and i'm gonna go nuts - gaskets are cheap - spending the time cleaning the engine from the leaked oil is not - can't go out on the track with any signs of oil leakage

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BruceWard]

Not even a single drop has leaked from my reused gasket.



If it was damaged or cracked or brittle it would have been replaced.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

count yourself extremely lucky - clearly it has worked for you, but it is a classic bad practice and way too much risk against the very low cost of the gasket - i refuse to do the "rubber band and bubble gum" wrenching like that - i used to send people away from my shop who wanted to chintz like that, regardless of whether or not it may work



i would definitely not recommend it, especially to someone who was asking about whether or not something was a DIY project, indicating a limited aquaintence with the mechanics of the car - i would absolutely air on the side of caution

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

Since the gasket is rubber, not fiber, It is very likely it can be reused many times over. If it is original, I think I would (did) change it at the time of removal for variocam inspection, but knowing that it is relatively new I would not hesitate to reuse it for many years to come even if I removed it 10 times.



Don't forget to include the gaskets around the spark plug holes too. Change 'em once, reuse them over and over while they are still in good shape.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

the odds of getting the exact same seating on the sealing surface dictate to me to change it - rubber would be the first i would change, since its compression characterististics are more elastic, but still have a memory, i would think it would further complicate the chances of getting it exactly in the same spot with the same compression



if it were cork, i might consider it



i suppose a lot would depend on the compression pattern, the cleanliness of the mating surface, whether or not they used a compound, and the elasticity of the rubber



still, why go through all that? the gasket is cheap - there is a reason shops don't reuse gaskets - they don't want to do the same job a second time



i don't tend to think of my time as "free", so i do everything i can to make sure i spend it wisely and not ever go back to do the same job twice



to each his own i suppose

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

The valve cover seal(s) really are reusable until they are brittle. They are made out of a dense rubber which you apply a oil film coating each time you reseat them. As long as they aren't cracked, they are good as new, over and over.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[S_Cal968]

When it comes to gaskets, I suppose it's a person preference. The main consideration should be the material. Use once materials [cork & gasket paper etc.] are ductile and take the shape of the part being sealed and stay that way. Materials such as rubber have elastic properties which return to their original shape. If rubber has hardened and has lost these properties or is saturated with oil, then yes it should be replaced.



Also, shops always replace gaskets [whether needed or not] b/c they're in biz to make $$, [ask me how I know - I used to work as a mech.].



BTW, The only time oil is applied to a rubber gasket is on the oil filter. This is done to reduce friction and facilitate removal. In all other applications a rubber gasket should be installed dry. Oil is capable of wicking action if a path is found [ie: oiled gasket].

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Harvey]

[quote name='flash' date='Sep 14 2005, 08:46 AM']count yourself extremely lucky - clearly it has worked for you, but it is a classic bad practice and way too much risk against the very low cost of the gasket - i refuse to do the "rubber band and bubble gum" wrenching like that - i used to send people away from my shop who wanted to chintz like that, regardless of whether or not it may work



i would definitely not recommend it, especially to someone who was asking about whether or not something was a DIY project, indicating a limited aquaintence with the mechanics of the car - i would absolutely air on the side of caution

[right][post="9852"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Like Greimann, I reuse gaskets where it makes sense. I bought all new gaskets, thinking I'd need them and pulled the cam cover and found the gasket there to be in great shape, so I left it. No leaks in a year. But if it did, I have a set of the gaskets to use and pulling the cam cover is not all that bad.



However, inside the engine or in really hard to get to places, I usually replace all gasket with new, just in case.



Harvey

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

glad it's working out for you



i guess it's probably a perspective thing for me



i wax my engine compartment - having to go back in and clean up a leak, and then re-detail the compartment again, is just too much of a pain, and far less than the cost of the gasket



one drop of oil, and i'm in there changing things to stop it - as an example, i drove my car on wet roads for a bit, and now have to jack up the car, pull the wheels, yank the fender liners, and clean everything - probably nuts, but that's the way i think about it

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.