[Downunder968]

Had a rare 30 minutes the other night and thought I'd check the rotor and cap condition. Unscrewed the 3 screws and pulled but didn't budge. Have I missed something here? Have full service history and there is no mention of these having been replaced etc so maybe its just never been removed. Car has done 180K so probably about time I checked this stuff out. Also do you just yank on those spark plug covers (thicker rubber boot near the plug - not the leads) to get at the spark plugs?



Simple questions I know but better safe than sorry. Thanks in advance



Andrew

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[PorscheDude]

Pull the plug wires very carefully, grab them as close the cam cover as possible.



The screw that hold the cap on needs to be pushed in and given a half turn.



They can be a little tricky to reinstall.

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[Downunder968]

thanks for the tip there - I'll give it a go.



Cheers

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[PorscheDude]

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[artysan]

<!--quoteo(post=62110:date=Oct 23 2008, 04:28 PM:name=smokiemon968)-->QUOTE (smokiemon968 @ Oct 23 2008, 04:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Pull the plug wires very carefully, grab them as close the cam cover as possible.

The screw that hold the cap on needs to be pushed in and given a half turn.

They can be a little tricky to reinstall.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

The captive 'hook' screws on the distributor cap are certainly the case for 944. But my 968 has straightforward screws threaded into the cam belt housing cover. I just removed my cap for the first time, and two of the three screws sheared off at the heads, necessitating their removal with visegrips after sliding the cap off over the remaining 'studs'. Has anyone else had this problem?

Peter

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[flash]

and when you change the rotor, don't forget the spacers

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[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=74821:date=Jul 1 2009, 05:17 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 1 2009, 05:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->and when you change the rotor, don't forget the spacers<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Spacers? I don't remeber there being anything like that when I changed my rotor and cap a year or so ago [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]

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[Jamie '92 968]

   

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[flash]

yup - there they are - way too many people forget these and then have issues with misfires and uneven running - the spacers give the proper alignment of the rotor to the cap

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[Jamie '92 968]

   

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[Cloud9...68]

And when putting the plug wires back, be careful not to put them on upside down (ask me how I know.). I would advise marking the cylinder number on the wire and the distributor cap, if you don't ve s sticker that shows which cap connector goes to which plug wire.

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[Johannvb]

Ah yes, now I remember!

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[SILVY968]

Can anyone tell me what may be the problem with my rotor/cap change?
I got the Bosch parts new from Sunset Porsche. Put it all back together without a problem. When I started the engine I heard a scraping noise from the cap. Pulled it apart and found that two of the posts, at the right side of the dist. cap were notched bu the rotor.
I loosened the three screws holding the rotor and was able to get a slight movement in the opposite direction. I tightened it down and replaced the cap.
Ordered a new cap, replaced the damaged cap and had the same thing happen.
Bad out of round rotor or something else?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Seems to be a very simple repair that is not going well.
By the way the old cap does not have notches in it.
Thanks
Brian

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[flash]

are you missing the 3 spacers that go on the screws behind the cap?

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[SILVY968]

Flash,

Do you mean the rotor spacers? I have the spacers installed under the rotor. My cap fits flush. Missing rotor spacers would change the in and out of the rotor as it relates to the distributor brass contacts, not the out of round, right?

The rotor scores 2 of the cap contacts about 3/32" from the bottom. Looks ok in that dimensional plane, just the out-of-round that has me stumped.

Is the plastic center section of the rotor an accurate and no-slop fit against the mounting shaft? Where can the run-out be coming from?
Brian

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[Ceenit]

Since you've already tried to caps (and will need a third), the only other variable is the rotor itself. Possibly wrong part number or defective. Strange that it would not score all 4 contacts versus just two, but the cap and rotor are pretty basic, so I'm betting one of them is the wrong or defective part number.

Did you have any issues before replacement? Any possibitly that the post that the rotor sits on is bent?

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[Ryan]

That "post" is the end of the camshaft, so I doubt it is bent.

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[SILVY968]

Thanks for the help guys!

No issues before. Just preventative maintenance.
Old cap had no cut lines, just pits.
This is really pissing me off. Each time I play this game it is $50! Now with a rotor it becomes a $100 game!

Old rotor Bosch part is 1234 332 389 R1. Part I ordered is 944-602-213-00-M14.
It actually came from Pelican as their price was $47, (Sunset had a higher price for some reason.)

Only problem now is that I have to get a new rotor and cap and try again, but there is no way to tell...wait...I just had an epiphany.
What if I take one of the bad caps and cut it open so that I can see the clearance between the new rotor and the bad cap, that way I could check before I put on the new cap!

OK...
If I remove the coil wire I could bump the engine to measure the rotor tip to cap contact all the way around. It There is going to be an issue, I can see it before I sacrifice another cap.
<b>Does anyone know what the gap distance should be?</b>
Is there another way to turn the engine over slowly without using the starter?
Brian

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[Ryan]

Brian, you could remove the spark plugs and then turn the engine over using a ratchet on the crank pully. This will allow a smooth easy turn of the motor.
Do the new parts look different than the old parts? I don't understand how this is happening.

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[Ryan]

PET shows cap as 928 602 211 01 rotor 944 602 213 00

Part numbers change, but I would make sure old and new look the same.

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