[MCL968]

I just discovered a leak in my 3 year old radiator. It seems quality control is not what it used to be, in that the leak looks like it has been there for quite some time- perhaps since it was installed.

 

I know someone with a 951 unit that is close to new (it was used for about a month), and he claims they are the same, with the exception of the tube that cools the turbo. They do indeed look identical. Has anyone had any experience with the 944S2/951 radiator in their respective 968?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[94SilverCab]

See post #18

 

http://www.968forums.com/topic/14721-rad...l=radiator

 

Jay

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MCL968]

If the radiator passes a pressure check I am going to get it. Now, any suggestions for how to cap that extra line for the turbo? 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

order the cap from OPC

 

 

Cap 944 106 103 02 its costs £4.50 here so i would guess about $7-8

Clip 999 512 392 00

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

I can confirm 951 (turbo) rad fits and works perfectly in my 968. Installed mine and very happy with it.

 

As the previous poster noted, the 951 rad requires a blanking cap aka "Block Off Plate" part number 944.106.103.02 when fitted to a 968. The good news is that the part was cheap and readily available - got mine from an official Porsche Centre.

 

And then came the problem.

 

The cap I fitted has just failed (after a few hundred miles). At installation I clamped it with a Porsche-provided Norma-brand clamp (20-32mm with nice rolled edges etc) - not an el cheapo clamp. The cap is a fairly thin soft material (some kind of flexible polymer) quite unlike the tough, fibre-impregnated material used on main rad hoses. The clamp cut thru' the cap - even tho' I used (what I considered to be) moderate torque to tighten it. The clamp had a 9mm band width with an embossed thread. The thread as it appears on the inside is quite rough to the feel.

 

I've ordered a replacement cap and 2 Norma clamps, this time with a 12mm band width in the hope that the wider band will not cut-in to the same extent. Two clamps so I can put them side by side to give a wider area of clamping with (hopefully) less clamping force required.

 

There seem to be 'better' (more suitable) clamps out there. For example, Norma (Americas) offer the Breeze Liner clamp -  described as "A general purpose worm-drive perforated hose clamp with extended band as an inner protective liner to protect soft surface hoses (Silicone and others) from damage, while maintaining a true concentric seal".

 

Can't seem to find these in the UK.

 

I have also looked at T-Clamps and spring clamps etc.

 

Update: Have just found a "Mikalor" Worm Drive Hose Clip - stainless steel - W: 12mm - 20-32mm available in the UK - and appears to smooth on the inside.

 

I'd welcome any experiences/suggestions from forum members on the best way forward.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kim]

Sam Sparks, I had the exact same problem with my new radiator for my 6-speed - the extra port I was told was for a tip and it was a line to cool it.  My radiator was a 968 rad that was installed by RS Barn.  It did the same thing after about 3 months.  I noticed that coolant would sometimes come out and other times not, and it was a bit of a job to figure it out.  I ended up needing to move the clamp further ahead and it seemed to work.  I never did figure out what to use to replace it. The car is gone so I haven't worried much about it.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

I have seen a few manual rads back in stock online

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

Sam Sparks, I had the exact same problem with my new radiator for my 6-speed - the extra port I was told was for a tip and it was a line to cool it.  My radiator was a 968 rad that was installed by RS Barn.  It did the same thing after about 3 months.  I noticed that coolant would sometimes come out and other times not, and it was a bit of a job to figure it out.  I ended up needing to move the clamp further ahead and it seemed to work.  I never did figure out what to use to replace it. The car is gone so I haven't worried much about it.

 

Kim, an interesting experience.

 

I've decided to buy some 12mm band-width stainless steel worm drives with completely smooth inner bands. The plan is to wrap some reinforcing tape and self-amalgamating tape (aka Rescue Tape in North America) between the cap and the clamp to smooth out the potentially hose-cutting irregularities that seem inherent in even the best worm drive clamp designs. I will then tighten carefully.

 

However, seems to me that worm drive clamps and soft hoses are not a good mix, so....

 

I've also ordered a few sizes of the MIKALOR SUPRA T-Clamp. These seem avoid the inner irregularities of worm drive clamps. Here's a vendor vid.

 

I can then see hands-on if the worm-drive or T-clamp appears best for the job.

 

Gates also do a shrink-fit clamp (PowerGrip) which seems neat but not available in UK. Ideally, I'd have put a Gates shrink-fit clamp over the cap and then further secured with a worm-drive or T-clamp.

 

Greetings from Old Scotia!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

I have seen a few manual rads back in stock online

Good news. But will they be available in 20 years when my next rad replacement is due?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

Buy one now and put it away, that is the only sure fire way of having one in twenty years, I will be to old and infirm by then to worry about it

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

Buy one now and put it away, that is the only sure fire way of having one in twenty years, I will be to old and infirm by then to worry about it

 

When I was struggling to find a rad I looked at the custom-build option. Talked at length with the owner of Aaronradiator who are based down your neck of the woods in London. Great guy. He convinced me that building one was very doable and could be done at reasonable cost. He would also replace the plastic end tanks with custom metal fab'd ones if required. The vid on his website shows one of his guys refurbing an E-Type rad.

 

You are, of course, more than welcome to leave me your car in your Will - whoever gets your car in that hopefully long-in-the-future day, will be receiving a gem.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

If I have any more heart attacks that might be sooner than I might hope


Anyway had a great day out at Cranleigh classic car show, 700 cars and only two 968's, one mine


And loads of really nice unusual cars, a 1967 Honda S600 coupe not seen one of those for about 20 years.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

If I have any more heart attacks that might be sooner than I might hope


Anyway had a great day out at Cranleigh classic car show, 700 cars and only two 968's, one mine


And loads of really nice unusual cars, a 1967 Honda S600 coupe not seen one of those for about 20 years.

 

Very nice. The Roadster version of the S600 is also appealing style-wise. The design vibe reminds me of the Triumph TR6, the Jag XK120, the Sunbeam Tiger, Austin Healey, MGA 1500 Roadster, Lancia Flaminia Convertible...etc..etc....all drool-tastic in their own quirky ways. They don't make 'em like they used to, eh?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

You are dam right there

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SamSparks]

I have seen a few manual rads back in stock online

 

NRF (good European after market supplier) now manufacturing and stocking 944s2/951/968 rads once again. One style only - all need blanking cap.

 

Therefore the capping issue may be important for European 968-ers.

 

Since my last Porsche silicone cap failed after 200 miles (it tore/split), I have refitted a new Porsche-supplied silicone cap to my rad using smooth worm drives and protective reinforcing tape. Car now up and running. As said previously, the Porsche cap is not reinforced and is therefore prone to pressure failure and tearing from worm drive - I don't trust this cap to get me further than the local supermarket.

 

So, I have ordered a proper hose with an aluminium blanking plug. These should clamp nicely and be good for the trip to St Tropez.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

Last year after I had my belts done (along with pulleys, water pump, and tensioner) I noticed a bit of a coolant leak. Assuming the worst, I took it back to the shop and they diagnosed a small leak at the one of the tank/core seals.


In a bit of brain fart/backward thinking I filled the expansion tank to MAX when cold, so of course there was a lot of overflow when at running temperature. I've noticed I get no leakage at all if I leave the overflow tank at MIN, nonetheless the radiator still leaks a bit.


So, I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried these all-aluminum tanks on eBay?




http://www.ebay.com/itm/gpi-racing-ALUMI...Sy&vxp=mtr


Listed for the 944S2 but as near as I can tell from research here and on the Porsche fiche, the S2 and 968 6speed radiators are the same? Only the tip radiator is different?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[unknown4u]

Yes tip radiator is different.

This because there is a section for cooling and preheating the atf fluid from the tip mounted inside it.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MCL968]

Just make sure it has the threaded bung for the fan switch. When I was looking at them when mine started leaking I noted that some did and some didn't.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

Just make sure it has the threaded bung for the fan switch. When I was looking at them when mine started leaking I noted that some did and some didn't.

For some crazy reason, all the pictures of 968 radiators on eBay seem to be upside down. In the pic I posted, I'm assuming the temp sender for the fan switch goes in the spot that's plugged in the lower right, just above the hose fitting? Here's a better picture of it, I'm assuming that plug unscrews to reveal the threaded bit.


So going left to right the holes are: Expansion tank hose, Upper Radiator hose, temp sender (assuming that hex head unscrews to reveal the threads) and finally, drain plug. Look about right?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

Yes tip radiator is different.

This because there is a section for cooling and preheating the atf fluid from the tip mounted inside it.

True, and you know what's crazy? The more complicated Tip radiator costs half of what a manual transmission radiator costs. $323 vs $616. But for some reason, the lower radiator hose for the tip is $875!!!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.