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Pagid Orange HELP !
#1

This is my setup, M030 sway bars & S4 calipers in the front. My problem, at the last DE I was getting a very harsh chatter & vibration when braking hard. After inspection I found my drilled Zimmermans had very small cracks & the Pagid orange pads were flaking apart. The leading edge to middle of the backing plate was not orange but brown. This was the short course for Sebring.

Now I changed the proportioning valve to send more to the rear brakes. New OE front rotors & new Pagid Orange pads. The rear has stock rotors & used pADGID oRANGE.

First session was 5,000 RPM & no hard braking. Next sension was flat out. After 15 min started getting my shudder back. Was told maybe brakes were smearing & got hot too fast?. On the ride home for the first 50 miles still shuddered but the nex 50 is smooth.

I changed the pads back to my Green stuff & all is well.

HELP!

Chris
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#2

no experience wiht the pagid orange, but....



i have not had the best luck with zimmermans - on both bmws i've warped them with hard pads - seems the heat isn't transferring well



so far so good on the zimmermans on the porsche, but i am using porterfield 4s carbon/kevlar pads - they tend to take heat better than the semi-metallic pads i had before - i have noticed though that i am grooving the rotors in concentric patterns
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

I almost always use Pagid Oranges and have never had a problem. Mostly likely they were not bedded correctly. How did you break them in?



Your rotors are probably getting pickup from the pads. The pad material is being transferred to the rotor unevenly (you can't see it). Once it is scraped off the shudder goes away. Either the pads were not bedded properly or they are not being used at their designed temperatures. It is normal for the orange paint to burn off the pads. Usually when I'm done the backing plates are no longer orange either.



Eric
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#4

I broke them in by driving to the track 100 mile, then the first session by running at about 60% with 2 cool off laps.

the comment about the transfer seems right on. I used a belt sander to take the surface off be fore i put them away. it was very dark, now look like new pads. how do you bed them & then bring them to operating temps.

I amnot a rookie to racing, raced a 510 in SCCA for years but used JFZ super pads
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#5

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#6

hi all



new to this board...



i yield to Eric's experience and would like to second his explaination. i've never used Pagid Orange but have heard similar complaints from 944 and 911 users. they've also complained of braking vibration from rotors....some saying rotors became "glazed" from pads and later resolved from removing "glaze".



cooz

aka

norm mandell

94 968 racer in progress

95 993 C2 coupe (for sale to support 968)
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#7

Hi!



I have had the same problem with orange Pagid's and what I have heard it can be a problem when using new rotors and orange Pagid



I had the problem with pad material on the rotors causing vibrations and I solved the problem by using other brake pads to "clean" the rotors and then I switched back to the Pagid again and did the bed in process one more time.



Pagid Bed in process



Now I use Sebros rotors and PFC 97 pads front and rear and this is the best setup that I have tried.



Magnus
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#8

Try the Pagid Blacks instead...I think you'll be happier with them.



Jason
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#9

I second the motion on the Pagid Blacks. Bloody expensive pads, but I really like them so far at the track. I'm running about 2 sets of pads to 1 set of rotors on wear, mild cracking (solid - not drilled).



For fun, you might pull the offending wheel and check to see that you have both Phillips screws, properly locating the rotor. I seemed to have gotten one loose just before a 3-day DE at Road America. An out-of-round rotor creates some "interesting" vibrations!



Next time you order parts from one of our sponsors, ask for a handful of those little Phillips set screws as spares. They're inexpensive, but handy.



While you're at it, order a front wheel bearing dust cap. One of these WILL elect to fling itself into the grass at the track at some point. Quite handy part to have on hand when it does.
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#10

Oh, and start flogging that car... Power doesn't even come on until 5000 rpm. That's the lower end of the fun range <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Keep 'em wound up and you'll keep up with all but modded 951's!
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