[Vedder]

Hi, today for the first time i connected a vacuum gauge to the FPR line to check what values the engine would do, well i have an ideia that at least 15 Hg at idle would be ok, but at idle cold or hot the engine is only pulling 9 Hg <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , im sure that not normal, any ideias? i checked for vacuum leaks the best i could but nothing obvious stands out.

What values should i be pulling?

Common places for leaks?



Compression values hot are around 180 to 190 across the 4 Cyls



cheers

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[Tom in Austin]

Sorry for a trivial reply, but if you haven't already done so, consider replacing all your vacuum hoses. Some of mine were falling apart and it made a nice improvement.

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[flash]

there are little ones that hide in there, with tees and such you really can't see - pulling on one may have is connected another



i have 18"-19" of vacuum at idle

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[Vedder]

Well ive checked every vaccum line, even the ones out of sight, i re-checked the cam timing and its dead on.

ive pressurized the intake and its holding pressure quite well, no obvious leak sounds,also checked the seating of the inlet manifold and its seated correctly. im running out of ideas.

Ive been reading up on the matter and the general opinion is that a low and steady vacuum is due to very late timing. So can it be that the hall sender is retracting timing and vacuum suffers? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

i switched the ECU, sparkplugs, coil, and still nothing i keep having 10 Hg at idle or running and hot or cold <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

also can the FPR be bad? if so what are the sympthoms?





PS: the gauge could be bad too... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[sp4149]

[quote name='Vedder' post='38572' date='Jul 21 2007, 08:23 AM']Well ive checked every vaccum line, even the ones out of sight, i re-checked the cam timing and its dead on.



So can it be that the hall sender is retracting timing and vacuum suffers?[/quote]





It's easy to check if it's the hall effect sensor, just disconnect it at the plug above the heater control valve. If there is no change in the way the engine runs, it's bad or has a bad connector.



-sp4149

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[Vedder]

Well, i tried and teh car runs the same with or without the sensor connected, and it starts too, that i find a bit odd.

tomorow ill try to get th eecu to spit the codes out, that involdes some wiring being done, cus european car dont have CEL light.

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[968rz]

Hey Vedder,

I had a problem with my car when I first got it, ran like a raped ape then one day it had low power, did the hall sensor test like you and notice the car started (seemed better) and ran the same so I pulled the sensor and found the plug was dry rotted. wired up a different plug (had one; just not for a porsche) and the problem went away. something to look at anyway.

FYI- yes the car will start if the hall at the front stops working but will not if the one at the flywheel dies.

Hope this helps

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[Vedder]

Can somebody with time and patience unplug the hall sender, and test and check if the vaccum suffers?

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[Vedder]

Update, i blinked the codes out of the ECU, and it came out 1-5, so i understand it all fine, also tested the Hall sender, just for signal, and its responding, with 5V present at the plug, so i can rule out the hall sender.

Today im cleaning teh ISV and checking the if its leaking. wish me luck

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