[968gene]

I have heard a few guys running very wide tires on 944/968s complain that it, takes a lap or two to bring the tires up to temp. Eric, any issues?

I have heard a few guys running very wide tires on 944/968s complain that it, takes a lap or two to bring the tires up to temp. Eric, any issues?

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[pmcrespo]

Jim,

do you know what offset works on front with the 10"s?

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[Jim Child]

I don't know what my offsets are, but if you contact Forgeline they will be able to tell you what works.

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[flash]

there is a wheel calculator here

you will need to factor in your particular brands actual tire width, as measured (not calculated by the listed size)

adding negative camber can allow a slight push outward, but not more than a millimeter or two, though the more you push outward, the less net tire contact patch you actually have for the same amount of negative camber - draw it out on paper - you'll be amazed - many people fail to reduce their negative camber when they increase offset or tire/wheel width, and often end up with less tire on the ground in a corner than they had before

get the chassis set first - get all the bracing and such in there so you know how much the chassis will move, and how much the camber will change - then get the springs and such set so you know how much clearance you need to accommodate your suspension travel - then start fitting wheels

if you do it out of order, you can easily spend a bunch of money on something that you will want to change later

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[pmcrespo]

Thanks Jim. I have the car set-up for GTS2 and would love to run 285s all the way around if that works and it is as fast (or faster) of a setup.

I'll adjust camber based on in/mid/out tire temps based on track configuration....... Personally, I do prefer less camber as it helps with the breaking... But above all, i need to upgrade the hubs ASAP.

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[Torbjorn968]

What angles have you arrived at? Simmilar to Jims?

//TL

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[pmcrespo]

--------------Front------Rear

Camber......-3.1.........-2.8
Caster.........3.0
Toe............ -.04 ........ .06

I am running 2,900 lbs. Which is me fully geared, 175 lbs of lead on the passenger side floorboard, and abt 1/4 tank of fuel. Moton Club sports double adjustable with 900 front and 800 rear and Nitrogen at about 200 psi NOP. Current Nt03 Silver Enkei 18” Wheels 10” Rear, 8.5” Front, Hoosier 285/30ZR18 R6 Rear, 255/40ZR18 R6 Front.

Dynoed 212 last with just a chip and a catback on a Dynojet 248. Detuned to 200 rwhp.

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[craigawoodman]

I run an 8 inch front rim, with 21mm spacers. THe tyre just rubs the inner guard. THe tyre size is 235.40R18's. I run 285/30R18's on the rears.

As per my last post, I can achieve around 1.3 lateral G's on track tyres. The car seems to have good front/rear grip balance (rears also run 21mm spacers on 10" rims).

The rims were set-up for a Series 1/II 996 GT3.

Same issue - the rears just (and I mean just) touch the rear guards.

I have thought about machining 1mm off the spacers, but live with it currently.

I run large (I cannot tell you what the numbers are without trawling through the service invoices - and this will cause a heart attack as I will see the costs) negative camber plus castor on the fronts to even then get the front workign side tyre to wear evenly.

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[flash]

i am so looking forward to setting up my track toy - after seeing what the chassis does and how to brace it, and knowing what is out there for hubs and such, and after seeing what my swaybars do and how much roll they get rid of over the M030, i am thoroughly convinced i can get a 10" wide wheel (or bigger) all around, and keep the camber down around 2 degrees negative all around on a full on track car

of course i won't be racing this in any class that has any limitations on suspension or chassis modifications, so the doors are wide open

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[benspeeder]

Dang - I'm limited to 8.5 width rims and run 245 front and 275 rear. And I thought I had some rubber on the track!

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[Torbjorn968]

From Crespo (forum does not allow me to use the quote function).

--------------Front------Rear

Camber......-3.1.........-2.8
Caster.........3.0
Toe............ -.04 ........ .06

-----------------------------------------------------------

These angles gives you even temperature inside and out?

//T

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[flash]

remember that what produces given temps on one car, does not mean it will do the same thing on another car

spring rates play a HUGE roll in tire temps - so do sway bar size, settings, and car weight

a heavier softer car will generate more temp at an outside tire than a lighter stiffer one - consequently camber angles are going to be different between the two cars

different tire compounds will change things too

left hand track versus right hand track will too

bottom line, you need to measure your own car on the track you are running

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[Torbjorn968]

Interresting reference, getting there one day (no tire temp meter).

T

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[pmcrespo]

T,

On the average, they work very, very well in the majority of tracks I visit which do not normally have lots of straights. Also, driving fairly hard in either practice, qualifying, or racing sessions. Backing off and running at reduces pace will immediately throw the temps off. My car is also very heavy running close to 3,000 pounds. With the springs on the heavier side, the Hoosiers tend to take a lot more load/deflection which may be helping....

I use to run -.2 to -.3 more camber at times in the white car. Much lighter, but much softer. And on Bilsteins vs. Motons now... My personal opinion is that the Motons behave so awesome, that I feel truly feel the higher springs work excellent with the valving at my weight. Plus I learning that I may be liking a stiffer, flatter car.

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[firefish]

Crespo, what sways do you use? I'm curious since normally I see people running with staggered spring setups with the heavier springs out back (not talking MR now). Your car would seem to be rather soft in the back, is that to counter oversteer or to gain maximum traction during acceleration (or both)?

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[Torbjorn968]

Jim,

do you know what offset works on front with the 10"s?

------------------------------------------

Mine are ET 47 with 265s, sticking my hand in behind the wheel at full lock there seems to be good space inside. Outside things start to look tight but no rubbing.

//TL

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[pmcrespo]

I'll have to check on the spring rates again to make sure I don't have it backwards... but I am fairly sure... I'll check this week.

I do tend to like a softer rear. It takes a bit of the edge off on turn-in and it helps in bumpy tracks. I have MO30 sway bars set on medium most times even though I may try tightening up on both ends as I think it may help. I have a motorsports diff that hooks up really well and does seem to like the current setup...

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[Willem968RS]

[quote name='flash' date='Jul 4 2010, 11:28 PM' post='95573']
there is a wheel calculator here

get the chassis set first - get all the bracing and such in there so you know how much the chassis will move, and how much the camber will change - then get the springs and such set so you know how much clearance you need to accommodate your suspension travel - then start fitting wheels

Flash, what do you mean by "all the bracing"?
The strut brace under the hood?

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[flash]

well, that helps, but the most important brace is the lower suspension brace (or castor brace) - this locks in the very flexible control arm mounting points, which are the cause of dramatic camber change under load - this makes for a very compliant street car, but horrible when you push it to the edge - do a search here and you will see the reviews, all of which indicating a significant improvement in geometrical stability

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[Seven30]

"lol - as far as i know, M030 is the only spindle upgrade currently available - there are a couple of different hubs out there"


How are the M030 spindles stronger than the stock ones? I thought the M030 spindles were different than stock for one reason: To fit the 928 S4 calipers (and I thought the hub was different to center the M030 discs in the S4 calipers). Since both spindles use the same wheel bearings, I've assumed that the size of the machined rod is the same for both spindles - and hence the strength should be the same. Please correct me if I'm wrong [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

The tips on the lower chassis brace and hubs are noted, thanks [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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