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LS1 968

[quote name='968LS1' post='31911' date='Mar 5 2007, 08:46 AM']Woodie,



The 968 TT slip yoke is too large in diameter to fit through the chevy throw out bearing and it is also too short. The motor mounts on these conversions are on the engine side not the X member. I tried to utilize the stock mounts when I did my conversion but there was not enought clearance to make the extension and clear the steering shaft. The engine is almost centered over the X member, slightly toward the rear.



Tom[/quote]



I really appreciate the assistance as I consider the job at hand. I'm guessing that about 3 inches of the low part of the oil pan has to be removed for X member clearance. Does the shallow part of the pan allow enough to drop the motor sufficiently for hood clearance?
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I tried to take a picture, I hope you can see the stands. The engine mounts on the LS1 are toward the front of the engine, so even though the engine is centered the fabricated stands are angled forward from the mounting points.        
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[quote name='woodie' post='31949' date='Mar 5 2007, 02:33 PM']I really appreciate the assistance as I consider the job at hand. I'm guessing that about 3 inches of the low part of the oil pan has to be removed for X member clearance. Does the shallow part of the pan allow enough to drop the motor sufficiently for hood clearance?[/quote]



You may have to grind abouut 3mm off of the front part of the thottle body. Don't slam your hood when you think you have it!
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Badberry.............What headers are you using in your conversion?



Are they 1 3/4" ?..............G
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Thanks. If i'm looking at this right it appears that you welded a bracket to the frame rail. BTW nice headers. I'm thinking my hood is going to sprout a bubble ot the front imo much better than putting spacers under the X member.



[quote name='badberry68' post='31965' date='Mar 5 2007, 08:47 PM']You may have to grind abouut 3mm off of the front part of the thottle body. Don't slam your hood when you think you have it![/quote]
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I did'nt do any of the work on this car, so I can't really say exactly what was done. Hope the pictures help though. The hedders, I believe, are Camaro 1 3/4" heavily modified to fit, and then coated.
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Just ran across this topic after some abscence from Pcar land. I saw this car last summer at Barber. Really clean job.



[Image: 968with350.jpg]
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That looks like Tom's car, but I may be wrong.
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That really looks amazingly beautiful. Almost makes me say "can't wait" - but no quite. When there's a real "kit", I could get seriously tempted, though.
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That looks exceptional. I've just about got all my bits and pieces together and to help my project i bought a mid level lift today. I got a bit carried away with cosmetics and bought a 930S wheel. I bought the front Eibach progressive springs that Flash had laying around, lowers the front by 1/5". I'm looking at a splitter and fender flares and 18" wheels. I thinking to go with 9 1/2s all way around and put F1s on them. I got a M030 front sway bar too. So much for a budget.
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Good job, woodie. sounds like you are on the right track. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.
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what's the weight difference between these modern small block V8's and our early 90's 3.0L 4cyl?



maybe not so much as one might think??
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I remember reading 35 or 40 pounds which could easily be balanced by moving the battery to the rear. Sounds too good to be true, but it looks like it is. Bob Blackwell.
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[quote name='barth7' post='32791' date='Mar 19 2007, 02:42 PM']Just ran across this topic after some abscence from Pcar land. I saw this car last summer at Barber. Really clean job.



[Image: 968with350.jpg][/quote]





ok this is driving me nuts... WTF colour is that? its a dark silver isnt it? why have i only seen a few cars with it, is it rare?



me likey the colour too.
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looks like slate metallic grey - not common, but i've seen a few
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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oof - woodie - just noticed your post - had no idea you were planning on putting that engine into the car and running on those springs - not sure how that's going to work -



there are 2 issues with using those springs on a V8 conversion



they are progressive springs, slightly softer at the beginning than stock - you may be too low in the front - i know everybody keeps saying the engine isn't much heavier, but all the ancillary gear that has to accompany it may well make the front end too heavy to ride at the height you need



there are spacers though that can be inserted that would push it back up



i definitely would have increased spring rates all around to handle the torque - when you step on that engine, she's going to really squat the stock torsion bars, and those springs aren't stiff enough to balance against anything stiffer



yes, the car will be fun, even with the stock torsion bars, and such, but so is a 65 V8 mustang - but, it suffers from the same issues, and i wouldn't be pushing it through the corners for the same reasons
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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Flash,



If you had to guess at spring rates for a V8 car (with coilovers), what would you recommend? The shop that works on my car has as many springs as you do ( I think), so I can use whatever. Don't get too technical, IF POSSIBLE <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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obviously how you plan to drive the car plays in heavily here, but, for a street car, depending on the final front end weight change, i would look at front springs of 250-300, adding about 10% of spring rate over 250 for each 100# of additional front end weight - then a rear rate to match - that means adding 100-150lbs of additional rate to the rear



that should compensate for the all too fun extra oomph the engine is going to put in the car, resulting in undesireable excessive front to rear weight transfer



these rates will also be ok for koni struts and similar shocks



if you want to go out on the track and such, and really get the most out of it, obviously rates would want to be higher, and you would need to use other shocks and struts



hope that helps
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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Woodie,



I would not run progressive rate springs and take Flashes recommendation on spring rates 300-350- front and add 150 to the rear. With the LS1 you will not have and front weight gain issue.



FYI, I just got my transmission back in the car with a .60 6th gear conversion. Now at 75mph the rpm is just 2300rpm, much nicer for highway cruising.
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be aware that 350 is the absolute edge for the konis on the street, and the ride won't be terribly fun - been there, bounced that - they will go to 400, but you get a LOT of bumps



no front weight gain? i'm having a hard time believing that -



check this out: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/spec...s1ls6.html



according to this, the total dressed weight is 497 versus our 379 - even if the weight posted on ours is dry, there is still a good bit of a difference, and then there is the larger radiator, extra exhaust manifold, yada yada - i'm not suggesting that it's a huge amount of weight, but it's there nonetheless - i'd like to see some axle weight numbers before making any firm statements about net weights



cool deal on the tranny - that should really make things nice - who did the work?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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