07-12-2006, 07:06 PM
this is certainly developing - cool - this is fun - here's a few more things to think about:
i think the entire concept of such a project is being missed - for somebody to contemplate such a thing, it is because they want to drive faster than they can with the stock motor - to drive faster means to drive harder, rev higher, and subject the engine to a lot more stress - this means higher tolerances, more service interval, and less life expectancy - scrimping on such a thing is illogical and a direct conradiction in concept
as for cost, since headers and exhaust alone are good for an easy 2.5k, and the bellhousing is another 4-500 minimum, i see this adding up in a hurry - 6k is an easy figure to get to - i've now dropped well over 30k on mods, and i haven't even gotten to the engine yet
on the motor mounts, i disagree - the dampening needs require a soft mount, not just a strong one - there are only 2 mount points up front, and not 4, like in a chevy - the rear cross member is not there this means a different kind of mount than those inexpensive chevy things - all vibration dampening is done with only the 2 mounts - if you think those hard rubber mounts will do the job, try sticking some in the car and driving it - you will quickly rattle your teeth loose - i am going through this dilemma right now, in contemplating aftermarket mounts to lower the motor - i am looking at over $300 for mounts that can do the job on this motor - i could expect nearly twice that to handle the torque and vibration of a V8
on the wiring, i think you are overlooking the engine management system, and all of its wiring, along with the interface to the instrument panel - getting that right is goof for a grand - the fact that they are selling it at $450 frankly amazes me - i could see easily spending a day figuring that out - that's a grand in my book
there are a lot of costs that seem to be forgotten when contemplating such a a project - i just spent over $200 just moving my battery to the trunk, and that was parts only - good parts are expensive, but they work - cheap parts don't - i would guess you would have to spend about $300 in wire and connectors alone, without even factoring in the cost of the time involved - my time is not free, and if i can get somebody else to do something cheaper than for me to do it, it's a good deal - such would easily be the case of a $450 wiring harness - having spent way too many hours reparing hack job harnesses, a good harness is an absolute must
by the way, what are they charging for the computer to control that thing?
and as for the used motor, would you put one in one of your planes? i subject my car to the same kinds of risks every time i get in it - we aren't talking about a commuter car here - who would think about this kind fo power if they weren't going to use it? by definition, that means high revving, hard pushing, heavy stress use - this is not something that is wise to subject a used motor to - i plan to rebuild my motor every 80k - that is as long as i expect an engine to last and still run right, given this kind of use - at 90% compression, it's done - why would i cut that life expectancy in at least half? at a bare minimum, i would take the used motor and rebuild it
6k seems cheap to me IF it's complete - but, my issue is not, and has never been with the cost - at 20k, if it worked well, i think it is well worth it, and i would quickly open my checkbook, and drop off my car - after all, i budgeted 60k originally, and have recently bumped that up to 75k, to get this car up to the level of performance i want - i wanted something to stand up to the supercars, and that costs money - you know the old saying "if you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch"
there is another one "no good sports car is cheap, and no cheap sports car is good"
my issue though is with the feasibility of the concept - i don't think the car can withstand the torque driven hard for very long, without a lot of modification
on top of that, i just had to increase my spring rates AGAIN to handle the extra power i have now - i was squatting too much and losing hookup - this means more money on such a conversion than i have already spent just to handle what i have now
then, there's brake upgrades to haul the thing down from the speeds it will be capable of
but, if you can get a V8 in the car for under 6k out the door, and not lose any of the features and reliability, i think you could stand to make a bit of money
lol - but, maybe that was the point you were trying to make all along - it can't be done, and therefore isn't worth it
ah - choices
i think the entire concept of such a project is being missed - for somebody to contemplate such a thing, it is because they want to drive faster than they can with the stock motor - to drive faster means to drive harder, rev higher, and subject the engine to a lot more stress - this means higher tolerances, more service interval, and less life expectancy - scrimping on such a thing is illogical and a direct conradiction in concept
as for cost, since headers and exhaust alone are good for an easy 2.5k, and the bellhousing is another 4-500 minimum, i see this adding up in a hurry - 6k is an easy figure to get to - i've now dropped well over 30k on mods, and i haven't even gotten to the engine yet
on the motor mounts, i disagree - the dampening needs require a soft mount, not just a strong one - there are only 2 mount points up front, and not 4, like in a chevy - the rear cross member is not there this means a different kind of mount than those inexpensive chevy things - all vibration dampening is done with only the 2 mounts - if you think those hard rubber mounts will do the job, try sticking some in the car and driving it - you will quickly rattle your teeth loose - i am going through this dilemma right now, in contemplating aftermarket mounts to lower the motor - i am looking at over $300 for mounts that can do the job on this motor - i could expect nearly twice that to handle the torque and vibration of a V8
on the wiring, i think you are overlooking the engine management system, and all of its wiring, along with the interface to the instrument panel - getting that right is goof for a grand - the fact that they are selling it at $450 frankly amazes me - i could see easily spending a day figuring that out - that's a grand in my book
there are a lot of costs that seem to be forgotten when contemplating such a a project - i just spent over $200 just moving my battery to the trunk, and that was parts only - good parts are expensive, but they work - cheap parts don't - i would guess you would have to spend about $300 in wire and connectors alone, without even factoring in the cost of the time involved - my time is not free, and if i can get somebody else to do something cheaper than for me to do it, it's a good deal - such would easily be the case of a $450 wiring harness - having spent way too many hours reparing hack job harnesses, a good harness is an absolute must
by the way, what are they charging for the computer to control that thing?
and as for the used motor, would you put one in one of your planes? i subject my car to the same kinds of risks every time i get in it - we aren't talking about a commuter car here - who would think about this kind fo power if they weren't going to use it? by definition, that means high revving, hard pushing, heavy stress use - this is not something that is wise to subject a used motor to - i plan to rebuild my motor every 80k - that is as long as i expect an engine to last and still run right, given this kind of use - at 90% compression, it's done - why would i cut that life expectancy in at least half? at a bare minimum, i would take the used motor and rebuild it
6k seems cheap to me IF it's complete - but, my issue is not, and has never been with the cost - at 20k, if it worked well, i think it is well worth it, and i would quickly open my checkbook, and drop off my car - after all, i budgeted 60k originally, and have recently bumped that up to 75k, to get this car up to the level of performance i want - i wanted something to stand up to the supercars, and that costs money - you know the old saying "if you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch"
there is another one "no good sports car is cheap, and no cheap sports car is good"
my issue though is with the feasibility of the concept - i don't think the car can withstand the torque driven hard for very long, without a lot of modification
on top of that, i just had to increase my spring rates AGAIN to handle the extra power i have now - i was squatting too much and losing hookup - this means more money on such a conversion than i have already spent just to handle what i have now
then, there's brake upgrades to haul the thing down from the speeds it will be capable of
but, if you can get a V8 in the car for under 6k out the door, and not lose any of the features and reliability, i think you could stand to make a bit of money
lol - but, maybe that was the point you were trying to make all along - it can't be done, and therefore isn't worth it
ah - choices
94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com
"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
(This post was last modified: 07-12-2006, 08:52 PM by flash.)
