funny stuff guys - i'm loving this.
it's so cool to see people having fun musing, confident that whatever it is, that it will work. i think that having all of the kits out there doing what they are supposed to helps that a lot. not having to be the guinea pig, fiddle around, or work things out after the fact, and having something fully tested and proven BEFORE it goes to market, does a lot in the way of instilling confidence.
lol - for giggles i did a bit of calculator fiddling.
now keep in mind that it is very easy to manipulate dyno numbers. all you have to do is make the common mistakes of entering the dyno room temp, rather than the actual intake temp at the filter, and you get higher numbers. similarly, if you use the SAE correction factor, which assumes an 18% drivetrain loss, you get artificially high numbers. on some dynos, like the mustang, which attempt to create "real world" loads, you have to enter the drag coefficients and weight of the car. if you fiddle with those, it is very easy to inflate the numbers.
garbage in - garbage out. a dyno is only as good as the operator.
that's why i turn off all correction factors and just read what it gets at the wheels, without anybody entering in anything arbitrary. we calibrate the tach to the speedo, so the dyno is reading correctly, and enter air pressure and intake temp at the filter (not ambient temp). we don't try to guess what the losses are, or what other factors "might" produce what effects.
that being said, and back to the calculator fiddling, given that the dyno i tested on reads a good 6% lower than a dynojet, and if you use the 15% drivetrain loss figures being tossed around out there as more appropriate for the 968, by adding 25hp (this is likely the upper end of my expectations, but we'll use it for the giggle factor), you end up with a staggering 334hp at the flywheel. that's over 340 if you use the 17% somebody else uses, and even higher if you use the SAE correction factor as well.
if this all works out like i think it will, you will get all that without changing injectors, no fancy complicated ignition systems, race fuel, or any of that nonsense. no loss of features. no rod stress. it should have the same drivability as the standard kit too.
on top of that, it should all be able to be installed in a little over an hour.
all that for a few hundred bucks over the standard kit.
i'm going to try to test on a mustang and a dynojet, just to satisfy everybody and remove the "dyno debate".
i can't wait to see this come together.
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