[nifi]

Hello,



I have replaced brake pads in several cars over the years, but have not had to do them yet in on a 968. I just bought my second 968 and I need but new pads on. I have not yet started just got the pads Friday. Are there any tricks that I should Know? Does nay one have a workshop diagram?



Thanks



Matt

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[bob blackwell]

Matt, I don't have a diagram but you will not have any trouble if you have ever changed them on another car. The 968 is very simple and straightforward. The most difficult thing is trying to remove the wear indicators from the old pads and re insert them into the new pads. I don't even use them any more, just strip the two wires and wrap them together. I inspect my pads at least once a month anyway prior to our racing events. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[nifi]

[quote name='bob blackwell' date='May 30 2006, 03:36 PM']Matt, I don't have a diagram but you will not have any trouble if you have ever changed them on another car.  The 968 is very simple and straightforward.  The most difficult thing is trying to remove the wear indicators from the old pads and re insert them into the new pads.  I don't even use them any more, just strip the two wires and wrap them together.  I inspect my pads at least once a month anyway prior to our racing events.  Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

[right][post="22068"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





Thanks, Bob



I woundered about the wear indicators. I might do that as I'm looking to do so DE stuff and get in some track time in the near future.



Thanks agian



Matt

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[wrlee]

[quote name='bob blackwell' date='May 30 2006, 01:36 PM']The most difficult thing is trying to remove the wear indicators from the old pads and re insert them into the new pads.  I don't even use them any more, just strip the two wires and wrap them together.

[right][post="22068"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Can't the pads be purchases with and w/o the wear indicators? I think my indicators are messed up anyway since there appears to be a few thousand miles more wear left (and the brake fluid is topped off) but the brake indicator light is on.



Bill...

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[mike]

[quote name='wrlee' date='Sep 27 2006, 06:48 AM']Can't the pads be purchases with and w/o the wear indicators? I think my indicators are messed up anyway since there appears to be a few thousand miles more wear left (and the brake fluid is topped off) but the brake indicator light is on.



Bill...

[right][post="26453"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





Yes, the pads and wear indicators / sensors are separate parts that can be purchased and installed independent of each other. Which brake indicator light is on? There is a brake fluid warning indicator and an ABS indicator on the oil pressure / voltmeter gauge and there is a brake pad warning indicator on the water temp / gas gauge. When your pads wear down to the point that the sensor starts to contact the rotor the brake pad warning indicator on your dash will be on. At that point you still have some pad thickness and will be able to drive around, but I wouldn't go to far like that because as that pad gets thinner it wears faster and is less efficient at dissipating heat. If the fluid warning indicator is on, I would make sure that you have clean fresh fluid by flushing the system. I'm not sure if any of these warning lights need to be reset by a special tool or if just addressing the problem will turn them off.



Good luck,

mike

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[Bob Kovacs]

As the others indicate, the wear sensors are the trickiest part of pad replacement on the 968. Otherwise, it's actually easier to replace the pads than on most cars. The 968 has a pad retainer that quickly flips out of the way, letting the pads be swapped in record time. I assume this is due to Porsche's racing heritage.



For what it's worth, there was a how-to article for a complete brake job for the 968 in the April 2004 issue of Excellence magazine.



--Bob

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[sasilverbullet]

just did my rear pads and all four sensors - easy...

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[nifi]

[quote name='sasilverbullet' date='Sep 27 2006, 11:22 AM']just did my rear pads and all four sensors - easy...

[right][post="26463"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





Got mine done with not problems. I also did a fluid change went well, but took a little to figure out that there are two bleeders per caliper. Other then that easy.



Finished a DE last weekend all went great.



Thank you all for the help!!



Matt

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[Dave]

When changing pads, DO:



1) Make sure the retainer clip actually is caught under the spring plate (spent a day at the track wondering why rotor wear was so strange - DOH!)



2) Loosen and re-tighten the two little phillips screws that hold the rotor onto the hub and give it a spin to ensure it is centered. It may just be from racing, but my fronts have started to "wander" from their correct centered position twice now.



When changing pads, DON'T:



1) Get into the habit of "filing" pads to make them fit. If the spring plates are corroded and gunked up, it really pays to remove them. Porsche sells replacement kits with spring plate and screws. The screws can be the devil to get out. But, once cleaned and refitted... pads slide in like a dream.

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[ether_joe]

how do you guys deal with pushing the pistons back to get clearance for the thicker new pads?



That's been my headache so far, trying not to impact the rotors while I pry the pistons back with a long slotted screwdriver. . .



?

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[wrlee]

[quote name='ether_joe' date='Oct 2 2006, 01:56 PM']how do you guys deal with pushing the pistons back to get clearance for the thicker new pads?

[right][post="26575"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]I have not changed pads on my 968 yet, but on other cars, I usually use the old worn pads: compress the pistons by prying the old pads apart with a screw driver. Then when I insert the new, thicker pads, there will be room for the rotor. Just keep slow steady pressure on it... they'll move, eventually.

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[Bob Kovacs]

[quote name='ether_joe' date='Oct 2 2006, 04:56 PM']how do you guys deal with pushing the pistons back to get clearance for the thicker new pads?



That's been my headache so far, trying not to impact the rotors while I pry the pistons back with a long slotted screwdriver. . .



?

[right][post="26575"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

You're gonna laugh but I use a big-ass pair of Channelock pliers to squeeze the pistons back in. I slip a piece of cardboard under one of the jaws so that it doesn't scratch the "Porsche" on the outside of the caliper. It works great, even if some mechanic somewhere is shaking his head.



--Bob

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[Dave]

I, too, use the old pads. I get them started (gently) with channel locks or vise-grips... then use the old pad to slowly press each of the two pistons all the way back in. Take care not to pinch the rubber boots on the pistons.



Seems to work pretty well.



Watch your fluid. If you're changing both front and rear from thin worn pads to big thick new ones... you'll displace enough fluid to overflow the reservoir. Thus, you'll need to remove some before or during the operation. I large syringe (like the ones you use to give liquid medication to a dog or child) will work nicely.

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[mike]

I stick a pair of pliers between the tab on the inner pad and the tab on the outer pad. I then open the pliers to push the tabs away from each other and push the pistons into the calipers. When reinstalling the new thick pad, if the pistons are not fully compressed I will use an old thin pad to pry the pad into the fully compressed position to make room for the new pad.



mike

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[tsj9197]

open the bleeder when retracting the pistons so you don't force old nasty fluid back up in to the ABS pump and master cylinder.



I like to keep the fluid only moving in one direction.

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[nifi]

[quote name='ether_joe' date='Oct 2 2006, 03:56 PM']how do you guys deal with pushing the pistons back to get clearance for the thicker new pads?



That's been my headache so far, trying not to impact the rotors while I pry the pistons back with a long slotted screwdriver. . .



?

[right][post="26575"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Joe,



I have always used a c-clamp, the kind used on funiture.



Matt

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[wrlee]

When replacing pads, what should I do with the rotors? Is it safe to have them turned? What are the rotor thickness tolerances that I should be aware of? Or should I just replace them? They seem to be in pretty good condition but I do not know when/if they were last replaced.



And, I guess I should bleed the brakes while I'm down there... what are the suggestions for fluid replacement?

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[sasilverbullet]

wrlee - My local Porsche shop, gurus since 1961, say do NOT turn Porsche rotors!!!!



Just check the thickness of them and if they're close to the minimum, replace them with new ones.

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[Fox944]

For those of you who have problems with the sensors, Porsche recommmends you change th sensors everytime you change the pads....they are very delicate.

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[rickh]

Where do you guys buy your pads? Any specifc brand that has a good cost/performance ratio?



Thanks,

Rick

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