[Peter B]

I have a line on a used set of 968 M030 brake calipers. The seller mentioned that these calipers require "adaptations" and isn't sure what is needed.



So... does anyone know what's needed? The next question is are these worth it?



Much appreciated.

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[JWahlsten]

You'll need spindles, hubs, rotors, and pads, or adapters for the calipers, pads, and rotors.



If you're just doing the brakes, no. If you're doing the whole shooting match, maybe. The hubs and spindles are stronger for a track car.

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[Peter B]

Thanks Joel: He only has the calipers and no adaptors. I've got the M030 stabilizer bars on the car already. I thought there was more to the "M030" complete package than just the calipers.



I'll pass. I'm using my car primarily as a daily driver.



He's got other stuff, including a whole engine and the back-glass hatch. I'm thinking of buying the glass as a just in case.

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[Rap]

Where is this guy with the whole engine?

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[Paul W]

Here's a description of the M030 parts if you haven't seen it before. Unless you feel your brakes are inadequate (I don't see how they would be) or you are tracking your car on a regular basis, I would skip.



http://www.weissach.net/968_M030-Option....Components

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[Peter B]

The guy is in Kirkland Washington. PM me and I'll send you his email. He also has adds on Craigslist (Seattle). I don't think he's mentioned the engine.



He's had 3 968. He's wrecked the last 2. He's been taking the engines out and putting in 951 turbo-charged engines. So I asked him, out of curiosity, do you have an extra 968 engine? Indeed he does.

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[bombfactory]

Peter - check out this page:



http://www.weissach....030-Option.html



for all the info on 968 M030 brakes.



You can run M030 rotors and calipers on std. 968 hubs and spindles using this caliper adapter:



http://9products.com/m030-brake-caliper-adapter-kit



A few other places make adapters like this as well. So if you can get a good deal on the M030/S4 calipers, you don't have to go whole hog and also get the hubs and spindles to make it work. Real M030 rotors are expensive tho!

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[hk968]

Just one more data point: I was considering the same upgrade for the brakes since I started taking the car to the track this year. I had even found calipers, spindles and hubs for a good price. But then it turned out that I do not really need this: I changed my brake fluid in April (ATE superblue), and then ran 7 track days at Watkins Glen (~ 14hs of track time) without the pedal even going soft with 4 days in 85F+ weather. I think I could have done one more event w/o bleeding the brakes but I ran out of money. And yes, maybe I am not breaking hard enough, so take it for what it"s worth <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



I do have SS breaklines and cross drilled rotors though, maybe that helps and that is a much cheaper upgrade



The car also has the M030 suspension, but this was done by the provious owner, so I can't compare that to the standard...





[quote name='Peter B' timestamp='1382648884' post='151202']

I have a line on a used set of 968 M030 brake calipers. The seller mentioned that these calipers require "adaptations" and isn't sure what is needed.



So... does anyone know what's needed? The next question is are these worth it?



Much appreciated.

[/quote]

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[Peter B]

Thanks - I've got the same set up with cross-drilled rotors, SS lines and M030 stabilizer bars.



I'll have to upgrade on the brake fluid.

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[Paul W]

My recommendation is to change your brake fluid BEFORE every track weekend. Cheap and easy. Amazing how many people have brake issues and don't do this.



And pad compound is key. There are so many out there. I would really be amazed if you couldn't get incredible braking out of the stock set up with the right pads.

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[JWahlsten]

Concur on the changing of the brake fluid and pad compound being key to good brakes on these cars. I'm not sure when a set of the big blacks would be required to dissipate heat.



I am using ATE Super Blue or Ate Type 200, same stuff with or without dye. For pads I am running the Hawk HT-10s. Currently, they are plenty for me. I try not to be a member of over braker's anonymous...The 968 is really a momentum car, so over slowing for corners is going to seriously kill lap times.

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[Paul W]

Yes, I would have to say that even though I have not driven a 968 on the track, I am very doubtful that you would need more than the stock brake set up if you are running 20-25 minute run sessions. The car turns in so well, you just wouldn't need them (plus it doesn't have crazy HP to get it down the straight).



I was so surprised when I ran my Alfa Romeo spider on a DE day, got a set of track pads for it with the stock set up (can you believe they had baby Brembo's on it in 1973?, twin piston calipers that looks just like a Brembo), and I never challenged the brake setup, even remotely. It was like I was using 50% or less.



Now with a heavy Audi, it's quite different, and the bigger the better.

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[JWahlsten]

I've run for an hour and not had the brakes fade...If it were a brake heavy track, it might be different, but I haven't had any issues yet. I'm advanced solo in my region. It's not racing, but as close as DE gets.

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[Rap]

What color is that? Blue?

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[Rap]

I agree with changing the brake fluid before every event. I put cobalt pads on and saw a difference but still was not sure if I was happy with the stocks. An instructor drove my car after I seemed to be not braking enough. His comment was your car seems to break better the slower you are going.

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[JWahlsten]

I run with black or white depending on the region.

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[hk968]

Good point about the break pads - they are part of the equation. It seems to me that good break pads need to have these properties:



1. Get to max breaking (wheel lock-up/ABS) with resonable pedal pressure

2. Have constant braking force cold/warm and beginning/end of breaking



1. will depend on tires (stickier=more break force needed) and for me the Porterfield 4R-S work great. The only downside is that the front pads only lasted 5 track days + one year of normal driving. The rear pads still had 50% or more of their life left at that point.





Another thing that I think would influence brake fade is the thickness of the pad: the thicker the pad, the more thermal insulation you have and the less break fade to expect. Having said that, I ran the front pads at minimum thickness (same as back plates, the PCA tech guys took a long, hard look at them) in a 40 min session in 90F weather and was OK.

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[Paul W]

If you are doing track days, having a pure track set of pads is highly recommended. First, you have to change them before the weekend, so you are looking at your wheels/brakes, and this gets you to do the brake fluid at the same time.



Secondly, the pad compound is truly suited for the track, where the 4R-S is good, it's not perfect for the track. If you put a pure track pad on and only run them at the track, you will find that they don't wear much as they are in the sweet spot of their temperature rating.



Then you come back and change everything out, this gives you a time to inspect the pads, plus put your street pads back on. They will last much longer, it's kinda like wearing two pairs of shoes instead of one for everything, the shoes seem to last more than twice as long.

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[flash]

very bad idea to switch pads back and forth. pads and rotors bed into each other and form a chemical bond of sorts. switching pads will result in chatter and pulsing.

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[Paul W]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1382907074' post='151266']

very bad idea to switch pads back and forth. pads and rotors bed into each other and form a chemical bond of sorts. switching pads will result in chatter and pulsing.

[/quote]



I've never had that issue, but maybe I am just lucky. Will continue to use track pads for the track, and street pads for the street.

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