[94SilverCab]

Porterfield R4's seem to be the most highly reccomended. I think they wil be my choice next time around.

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[flash]

specifically R4-S



the R4 is a track pad - the R4-S is a street pad - i have them, love them, and put them on everything

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[Anchorman]

I just had the Porterfield pads installed on my car. All I can say is WOW!!! Incredible improvement in my braking power.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Anchorman' post='63204' date='Nov 17 2008, 09:42 PM']I just had the Porterfield pads installed on my car. All I can say is WOW!!! Incredible improvement in my braking power.[/quote]

Did you get the track or street version? I'm wondering because you track your car a lot. Thanks.

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[Ryan]

Don't forget about proper break-in of the new pads. Ten fast 60 to 5 mph stops to set the pads to the disc. NO complete stops.

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[Anchorman]

I'll have to confirm from my receipt (which I've momentarily misplaced) but I'm 99% certain I got the street version. (To date, I've only had the car on the track for 2 events, or 4 days, per year. The vast majority of my driving is street.)

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[flash]

actually the process is an increasing and decreasing braking - it is NOT merely 10 fast stops



you do a number of firm slow downs from increasing speeds, and then decreasing speeds (i.e. 30-10, 40-10, 50-10, 60-10, 70-10, 80-10, then 70-10, 60-10, 50-10, 40-10, 30-10) - do about a half dozen of these going up, and about a half dozen going down - then drive around normally for a few minutes, allowing the brakes to cool evenly

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[Anchorman]

I have my receipt from RS Barn where my brake work was done, and can confirm that Porterfield Street Performance Pads are now on the front of my car. (For reasons related to what was on the shelf and my need for pads NOW, the rears are now KFP Street Comp pads.)

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[barth7]

<!--quoteo(post=63237:date=Nov 19 2008, 10:53 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Nov 19 2008, 10:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->actually the process is an increasing and decreasing braking - it is NOT merely 10 fast stops

you do a number of firm slow downs from increasing speeds, and then decreasing speeds (i.e. 30-10, 40-10, 50-10, 60-10, 70-10, 80-10, then 70-10, 60-10, 50-10, 40-10, 30-10) - do about a half dozen of these going up, and about a half dozen going down - then drive around normally for a few minutes, allowing the brakes to cool evenly<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Great article on bedding and all other braking related questions:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

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[durtkillon]

<!--quoteo(post=37686:date=Jul 1 2007, 08:10 AM:name=sasilverbullet)-->QUOTE (sasilverbullet @ Jul 1 2007, 08:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->wrlee - My local Porsche shop, gurus since 1961, say do NOT turn Porsche rotors!!!!

Just check the thickness of them and if they're close to the minimum, replace them with new ones.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I'm diving in to my brakes this weekend for the first time. I gotta ask. Why would you not turn rotors? Mating scored rotors with new pads sounds like a bad idea to me.

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[Anchorman]

I believe it has something to do with heat - the ability of the rotors to withstand braking heat without warping, etc. I imagine, though, that others will opine, possibly with more factual information.

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[H2Ojazz]

Hi, this question is re the Porterfield 4 vs 4S pads. I currently have the 4 pads on front - very noisy (I bought them from a buddy in a pich while at the track).

They are very noisy on street. I am thinking of switching to 4S pads. My car is a summer daily drive and sees about 5-8 track days each summer. Would the 4S pads hold up on track?

Thanks!

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[banditsc]

<!--quoteo(post=81608:date=Oct 11 2009, 02:14 AM:name=durtkillon)-->QUOTE (durtkillon @ Oct 11 2009, 02:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I'm diving in to my brakes this weekend for the first time. I gotta ask. Why would you not turn rotors? Mating scored rotors with new pads sounds like a bad idea to me.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
If there still in spec and just plain old solid rotors, I see no problem with it. They are only going to take off enough to remove the grooves and any warpage. How much thinner depends on there current state. I can have a rotor turned for $10, so it's a cheap way to get a little more life out of rotors that are still in spec when putting new pads. on.

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[flash]

rotors almost never warp - this is often a misdiagnosis - what happens is uneven depositing of material - this causes the pulsing sensation misdiagnosed as warping

beside removing grooves, you turn the rotors to remove the chemically transferred material of the previous pad - failure to turn your rotors very often results in uneven braking and noise

as long as you have the minimum spec left after surfacing, there is nothing wrong with doing it on a street car - on a track car, this can present an issue of reduced cooling capacity due to the reduction in material

as for the R4-S pads, i use them for DE events, and i have yet for them to fade, but would not use them for racing

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[H2Ojazz]

Thanks, Flash. I only do DEs so will give the R4S pads a try.

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[flash]

no worries - happy to help - they have been very good for me - i never have had brake problems though - i came from a much lighter car, with less power, where you learned quickly to throttle steer and use the weight transfer more than brake, and pretty much just keep the right pedal mashed the rest of the time

crossing over to this car i had to use the brakes more, but i still freak out some of the guys behind me a lot, because i am not on the brakes, and i'm just using weight transfer to sling the car around - i even had an instructor come over to me during a break at one event and ask me what i learned to drive in, because based on my speed through tight "s" turns, it was very clear to him that it was a much smaller car - it's definitely more like dancing than driving, but it works for me

anyway, i've done a half dozen DE events and about 25k of driving and the pads are still more than half there all around, no bluing and no fade - i am now getting more dust than when they were new though, so it would seem that the temps seem to be climbing a bit - i'll be watching that

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[rxter]

That's fabulous. I've easily gone through pads in 25K on other vehicles. Glad I put the R4S's on.

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[olddragger]

Hello all,
I have tracked a good bit but not in a 968. I plan on getting one (coupe) before next year and I am doing the due diligence thing before purchase.
Questions are:
1- do they have speed bleeders for the 968
2-is there a good bit of rear bias?
3-Does the chassis allow a steady trailbraking without drama?
Great forum and thanks
olddragger(yes I am old)

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[flash]

1 - not sure - not had a need for them, as bleeding has only been necessary as a standard routine bi-annual flushing item, and not that big of a hassle with a motive power bleeder (HIGHLY recommended)

2 - no - in fact the car is front biased more than would be desired for track - recommend installing a 5/33 valve - do a search here on "brake bias" using my screen name as a filter for the part number

3 - short answer is no - see #2

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[olddragger]

Thanks flash--I will f/u
OD

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