[timbits]

In getting everything up to date to install the lower suspension brace I ordered a new set of Elephant Racing castor blocks from RSBarn to replace the aging originals on the car. After I ordered it all I started thinking that it might be a good idea to replace the front bushings as well with matching monoballs (http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension...oballs.htm) as well. I'm going to need an alignment after this anyways so I was thinking it'd be good to do them both at the same time.

What I was wondering is what's the job involve to replace the front bushings here? Should the old ones pretty much just slide out and the new slide right in? The castor blocks look to be pretty straight forward, just not so sure about these.

I've done some searching and there are threads talking about replacing these, but no specifics on the procedure to do so.

Tim

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[flash]

step 1 - start grumbling about stupid german engineers



step 2 - get REALLY pissed off that you didn't alot more time for this project



step 3 - go get a beer



step 4 - go to the store and get more beer - you're going to need it



it is a HUGE pain - they are pressed in - to top it off they are made of 2 halves, and no way to push them out easily - add to that the fact that you really have to remove the control arm completely to do it



well worth the effort, and definitely the time to do it, but a lot of work

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[PorscheDude]

Your gonna need an alignment anyway, so I would remove the control arms (only 15 minutes a side) and take them to your local automotive machine shop.

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[timbits]

Hrmm.. that's what I was afraid of. Oh well, I knew I was going to need an alignment anyways, I'll just go for it so I don't have to get back in there anytime soon.

It sounds like the control arms shouldn't be too much to remove, so I'll do that and plan on stopping by the shop quickly to get the new ones put in.

Thanks for the advice!

Tim

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[flash]

yeah - not hard, as long as you have a pickle fork

don't plan on any "quick" stop at a shop to R&R the bushings - it's still a bugger to get the old one out - it's likely gonna be a "drop it today and pick it up tomorrow" kind of thing

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[stewhatch]

I've learned something new today. I was always under the impression that the control arm bushings were permanently installed. Removal was possible - AFAIK - by machining the retaining lip on the control arm then pressing the bushings out. Then you were left without that "lip" to hold things together & having to weld a new retaining lip. I think I've heard of some guys uising 944 control arms which are bushing-friendly and easier to rebuild, but they are not exactly the same as the 968 control arms. Do I have this right? I know the 968 control arms are getting harder to find now - and they are expensive. I found an almost new pair last year off a totaled (rear-ended) '94 and they are now on the front of my car. I still have the old arms. I feel a whole lot better knowing they aren't useless anymore. Glad I hung onto them.

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[Ryan]

Stew, you may be thinking of the ball-joints as they are epoxied into the 968. The early 944s had a VW pressed metal control arm that you could just bolt and unbolt the balljoint. The first (86.5-87) 9442 to use the aluminum control arms had the lip and "c" clip holding thing together, but on the 968 it changed so you had to replace the entire arm for a balljoint.

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[stewhatch]

Ah yes, you're right. My mistake.

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[flash]

pete tells me there is now a place where you can get 968 ball joints changed

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[danderson]

I am finally going to change my castor blocks and figured I would do the front bushings as well. I believe that I need 4 bushings as replacement, 2 per side. Is this correct? From the posts I was reading, I will need to press out the old bushings. Is there anything in the way of doing this? Are the bushings rubber or is there any metal in the way of pressinng them out? Flash, what is it that make sit so hard? Thanks for any help.
Dwight Anderson
1994 Red Coupe

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[flash]

they are rubber, but have a metal liner, and a sleeve - there is just no way to easily get them out - you can't drive them out, and you can't pry them out - you really have to wrestle with them - you'll see as soon as you drop the control arm

good luck

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[danderson]

Thanks Flash. I need two bushings per side correct? I saw them at Paragon but not at OEM parts places. The posts above seemed to indicate that the factory did not sell it as a separate part. Is that also correct?

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[flash]

hmmm - i've never reinstalled rubber ones, so i don't know

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[danderson]

I changed the castor blocks and the front A-arm bushings this weekend. Flash, you are correct, they are a pain to remove. Everything else was easy. I was using only hand tools and was able to extract them with a hacksaw and a wheel puller. These are the worst in my experience. I can't tell yet if it feels any better. The alignment is way off. At least it is done. Thank you for the warning.
Dwight Anderson

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[flash]

lol - no worries - i like to make sure the fridge is well stocked before somebody takes on that job

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[firefish]

I just did this - not funny! Took me the better part of three hours despite good tools.

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[Cloud9...68]

I've just started working on the front A-arm bushing, and am mentally prepared for a battle. They seem to combine the worst aspects of our other two favorite 968 suspension components: The tenacious rubber of the spring plates, and the two halves of the metal sleeve meeting in the middle of the opening, making it hard to get at them with a punch, just like the rear trailing arm fbushing, except there's remnants of the rubber in the way, making it even more challenging.



One question - does it help to remove the strut from the A-arm, allowing the A-arm to be placed into a vice? If so, what's the procedure for removing the strut? It looks like I'd need to remove the 17 mm retaining bolt, and then using a pickle fork to drive the strut off the ball joint pin. Is this correct? Believe it or not, in all the years of working on cars, I've never used a pickle fork before. Has to be a first time, I guess. Thanks.

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[flash]

yup - that's about it - i recommend liberal use of silicone spray on the rubber boot first before using the pickle fork - that will allow a better shot at not tearing it

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[Cloud9...68]

Ah, I was wondering about that. Thanks.

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