[Cloud9...68]

Any tips on how to hard-wire a radar detector? I think the previous owner tapped into the interior light above the rear view mirror, but I wanted to solicit opinions before tearing into it. My cigarette lighter has an intermittent short, so rather than spending time tracing this problem, I thought it would be easier to try tapping into a source of voltage to directly connect my new-for-Christmas Valentine. Thanks in advance.

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[flash]

i would run a new power wire from an open slot in the fuse block up under the a pillar and across to where you want it, and ground right there in the header bar underneath the headliner



i would not tap existing power from a lighting circuit etc, not knowing what the circuit capacity is, or what other issues you might have going on in there

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[Larry Currie]

I tapped into the interior light, but it stays on all the time. I wish I'd done it so it would turn off when I turn the key off.

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[gryphon]

Larry, you definitely want a switched connection to avoid leaving your detector on overnight and draining your battery. Getting wires to the fuse block is not very hard on a 968 as Flash suggested.



Tom

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[Cloud9...68]

Excuse my ignorance, but by "fuse block," do you mean the fuse box under the hood in the rear left corner of the engine compartment, where the DME relay is located? Reference to the A pillar has me confused (though I guess technically the fuse box is near the A pillar)... If we are talking about the same thing, is it easy to fish a wire from the fuse box to the interior where the detector would be mounted? Thanks.

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[flash]

that one or the one under the dash - it will take some effort to get to the back side so you can tap the terminal, but it is the clean way to do it



you could also tap a switched hot wire, but again, the extra load may be more than the wrie can handle, depending on what else you have connected to it, and there already seems to be a problem in that circuit



your other option is to go straight to the battery - i do not recommend this though, because in the event of a short, it is an increased potential of harness meltdown, unless you use a very light fuse

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks for the clarification. I'll take a look.

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[Cloud9...68]

I should have read the instructions to my Valentine before posting this thread, because the detector has a very neat pinch connector for splicing into a wire, which is then connected into the unit, which should make the installation very easy, removing the need to tap into the fuse block. I just have one question - the instructions say to squeeze the pinch connector around a "switched" wire, one that's off when the ignition switch is turned off, and has 12 volts when the ignition is switched on. Any suggestions as to a good wire to choose for this? I could poke around and find one, but I was wondering if anyone out there has ever installed a Valentine using the hard-wire method. Thanks.

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[flash]

the one that powers your radio should be switched - should be red (not the one that goes to the memory wire if you have one which should be yellow)



these are the colors of the wires from the deck, not from the car

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' post='31974' date='Mar 6 2007, 08:14 AM']the one that powers your radio should be switched - should be red[/quote]



Kind of thought that might be it. Thanks for confirming.

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[oppositelock]

This is a little late as you have probably already hooked up your V1. On the left kick panel there are three additional relay blocks. I do not have the wiring diagram in front of me, but one is for the shift interlock (remove relay and dispose of in trash can), another for Japan cars and I think the middle one for Canadian day time running lights. Just hook up the power to the switched wire for that. Put a male spade on the power wire and you have switched power. I can go look at my car and get very specific if anyone would like. Mitch

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[Cloud9...68]

Actually, I haven't hooked up my V1 yet (too many other things to do), but I plan to tackle it tomorrow. I think what you are suggesting is what Flash recommended initially. What would be the advantage of connecting to one of the unused relay blocks in the fuse block, vs tapping into a switched wire using the connector that Valentine provides? What would be the best way to snake a wire from the fuse block to the detector? Is there a convenient way to run it up under the dash? And yes, if you could go to your car and describe the exact location of the relay you'd recommend using (though your explanation in your post sounds descriptive enough to find it), that would be great, and hopefully helpful to other besides just me. Thanks.

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[gryphon]

Cloud, the trim pieces that cover the A-pillar and front of the Cab top come off easily and are a convenient way to route the wires.



As far as tapping into an existing wire, it probably would work fine, but be warned that if the voltage drops a bit the Valentine will emit continuous beeping sounds indicating low voltage.

Tom

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[Cloud9...68]

OK, I got my voltmeter, poked around the fuse block, and found a connection in an unused relay block that has 12V going to it when the key is in the on position. It's the only unused block I could find, but it's pretty easy to get to. The only somewhat odd thing is that the connector with the 12V accomodates a VERY skinny spade connector - only about 3 mm wide. None of the other connectors had any voltage on them, which seems kind of strange. I also found a very convenient connector for ground, so I'm off to Radio Shack to get a spade connector that will fit the female connector in the fuse block.



As far as routing a wire, this should be no problem. There will only be a short section of wire visible on the front of the dash, near the left-most vent. It will be much less visible than if I had usd the cigarette lightor connector. Plus, I have a dash mat that will hide the wire to the detector. Hopefully I'll have this put together later this afternoon.

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[oppositelock]

OK, just looked at my car. There are three open relay holders (two if you still have shift interlock). The one to use is the most towards the rear of the car. The power location is the very upper rear corner. And yes, it is a narrow spade (like a fuel injection connector). To answer an earlier question, this will provide a much more reliable connection than a "Scotchloc". This source of power is much cleaner so you will not have the problems like gryphon said. It sounds like you are mounting the V1 on the dash. Know that detectors work better the higher up they are (get signals faster). My V1 is mounted to the windsheild between the header (Cabriolet) and the rear view mirror using the suction cup mount. The power cord (looks like telephone wire) is under the header panel and also under the A pillar panel. Easy to do. I notched (very small) the header panel so it will still lay flat. Very clean and permanent install and I can still take down the V1 when parking with the top down. Enjoy your V1, massive butt saver. My personal oppinion only, typist does not condone speeding or breaking any traffic laws <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Cloud9...68]

My car only had one visible open relay, but I think I used the same one as you're describing, and the same connector within the block. The installation was very clean and easy, and the detector is getting powe when I turn the key. I just waxed the car, and it's been raining today, so I haven't taken the detector out for a test drive yet.



I mounted the detector a few inches above the dash, so it will clear the wipers, but it sounds like it would be better if I mounted it higher. I'm going to Germany to pick up my wife's new 2007 328i next weekend, so I won't be able to do anything on the car until the weekend after, if then, so I think I will leave it where it is for awhile. I was able to tuck the wire between the windshield and the dash, and my dash mat keeps it there, so the install is extremely clean. I'll check to see how easy it is to hide the wire inside the A Pillar, and the healdiner at the top of the windshield. Hopefully it's as easy as it is in a cab. Thanks for all your advice.

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[flash]

mounting is best so that it has a clear shot past obstructions, and slightly toward the right side of the road (that's where the guy with the badges sit)



the valentine has the added complication of the rearward antenna - this is known to give a lot of false reports, primarily due to oversensitivity and reflection, so the best you can do there is to give it a clear shot to the rear as well



this may not be easy - good luck

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[Larry Currie]

There is no problem with the V1 staying on overnight if it is not switched. The drain is very small on the battery. Even though, I'd like mine switched I'm not going to the trouble to change it.

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[flash]

yeah - i leave my detector on all the time too (not on purpose) - not sure why they don't have a power button on the adaptor on those things (it's got a mute button though) - i move this one from car to car, and it would be nice if it had one



looks like i'm buying multiples though, and hardwiring them in to solve the problem - i hate the coilcord hanging down and getting in the way



mike - what did you do about the fuse? i assume you snipped the power cord - did you add an inline fuse, or did you tap the backside of the fuseblock, thereby using a fuse there?

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[Sears]

Bringing this back from the dead...what spot do folks use for a ground that use this third relay block under the dash? I follow that but I glanced under there the other day (just got a V1) and didn't seen a super obvious spot to hook up the ground.
Thanks,

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