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Hard to open door.
#1

I have wind noise and a small amount of water leakage on the driver's side of my cab.

I have noticed that the door is not pulled in as tight as it should be by looking at the body fit, the window glass placement and by comparing it to the passenger side. I can see no signs of damage or repair and my paperwork is clean.

If I adjust the door latch pin inward, the door comes in closer to correct body alignment, but the door is either very hard to open or can not be opened at all with the latch from the outside, It seems like the door finger lever engages almost at the end of it's travel.

The passenger door is in good body alignment, but it's finger lever also engages late in the door handle.



Is this a linkage adjustment issue from the door handle to the latch, or is the door handle itself worn out?
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#2

look closely at the door alignment to the body all the way around - it is very possible that the bottom o the door is pushed in, bringing the top out



alignment of the door to the body is provided at the hinges - be careful, and do it a little at a time - it may take a while, and you will probably have to make at least a half dozen adjustments



alignment of the latch is a bit tougher, and may require pulling the door panel if simple receiver alignment doesn't do it



if you get stuck, give me a buzz, and i'll walk you through it
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

Checked the door at all sides and it seems OK. I removed the vertical moulding assembly on the driver's side, where I am having the leak problem. I found that both of the mouldings had been glued down with black silicon adhesive/sealer. I removed all of the sealer and cleaned out the tracks on the metal mounting plate, also clogged with silicon. With all three items cleaned I re installed the moulding, the metal plate and then slid in the second rubber moulding.

The assembly now sits where it should and seals properly.

Since the door pin was moved inward, the door sits much better in the frame and the wind noise is gone. Clarks Garage has an article about door handles which was very helpful. It said that if the inside handle opens the door fine and the outside handle does not, an adjustment is required. There is a threaded assembly that attaches the outside door lever to the lock mechanism that needs to be adjusted to make it longer.

Since there is an electric door opener on the 968's, you must pull the door panel to disconnect it before you can remove the adjustable link.

I'll pull it apart the next chance that I get and adjust.
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#4

cool - sounds like you're on the right track - i had to do that kind of thing when my doors got put back on my car when it was being painted
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

I'm having this same problem. The inside door hand opens the door fine, but at times the outside handle takes two hands to get it to open. (The lever just doesn't seem to engage right away so you have to get some leverage in there to open it) Any details exactly how to adjust this? Do you have a link to that Clarks Garage article you referenced?



Thanks!

Mark
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#6

Here you are:



http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-12.htm



Because we have electric door release the interior panel has to come off to disconnect.
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#7

Brian,

Great article from Clark's. I had trouble with my handle from the outside. The lever went all the way into the handle before the thing would release. I went at it sort of blind, but a good lube job seems to have sorted it out.
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#8

Excellent, thanks!
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