[968gene]

Went to replace the water pump on the 944 race car this weekend and the PO had broken a stud on the last replacement. Any ideas? We tried heating the surrounding area and turning the nub with Visegrips, no luck. Now I have a very short nub. Thanks in advance for ideas.

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[flash]

drill and easy out?

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[968rz]

Grind the stud flush to engine, center punch the stud then drill and extract, if this still wont work you will have to drill and retap the hole (maybe helicoil it)

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[orphanowner]

[quote name='968rz' date='Jun 27 2006, 03:04 PM']Grind the stud flush to engine, center punch the stud then drill and extract, if this still wont work you will have to drill and retap the hole (maybe helicoil it)

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As 968rz suggests, this is the best method to deal with a broken waterpump bolt. I've never had much luck removing these, but they are very easy to drill out and tap. You can even drill and tap to the next metric size up without any problems. There is lots of meat in that area of the block.



Use a right angle drill and a very sharp bit.

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[968gene]

engine was out of the car and it went something like this: centerpunch the old stud, drill small hole - went well, step up to next size bit - went well too, step up to easyout bit size - broken bit. spent several hours with a Dremel and diamond bits removing the broken bit end. drilled out to proper Helicoil size and installed new Helicoil. Water pump back on and I'm closer to a track day.



I just read about CRC's Freeze Out and this product makes sense for those who might have a broken ferrous stud in aluminum. Applying heat expands the stud and the aluminum. Since the aluminum cools quicker, I'm thinking that heat might work against the process. Freezing the stud might actually reduce its size and hold on the surrounding aluminum making extraction easier. Any thoughts?

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[Etnier]

My mechanics generally tack-weld something to the remaining stud in situations like these and remove them both. Maybe your stud is down to too little for this, however.

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