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Engine rotation direction
#1

I'm about to get to the part of the clutch removal procedure (the release fork shaft, to my amazement and delight, came out with minimal struggle) where I'm going to need to rotate the engine by hand to reveal the various bolts I need to remove. Common sense says I should rotate the engine in the direction of its normal rotation. I did a search, and even looked through DIY's that I thought should mention the engine rotation direction, but nothing turned up. The owners manual doesn't say, either. So, which direction does the engine rotate? Or specifically, when I place the socket on the giant pulley retaining nut, which direction should I turn the breaker bar? Thanks.
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#2

Cloickwise as you look at it. And it's not so giant, only 24mm. Pull the spark plugs and it turns easily with a normal 1/2" drive socket wrench....no breaker bar required.
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#3

Thanks! I thought it was 27 mm, but you're probably right...
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#4

make sure you loosen the bolts a little at a time, and work your way around the flywheel - it will take a few rotations, and it's a royal pain, but failure to do that will result in it coming out unevenly and jamming up
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#5

Yes, thanks, I caught that in Erik_K's excellent DIY write-up.



By the way, when I get to the flywheel removal step, I know there's a pretty high risk of stripping the bolt heads. Clark's Garage gives some tips on how to "wake up" the bolts prior to trying to loosen them. He says to tap on the bolt head with a center punch. Does anyone have any other suggestions for tips to prevent stripping the bolt heads? I understand about keeping the socket perfectly square and fully seated in the head, using two hands to accomplish, this, etc. Anything else that's helped others? Thanks.
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#6

not really - access is difficult - patience and good leverage have been the key for me



remember to get new bolts, as you really should not reuse those
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#7

Yes, by the time I'm done wrestling the old ones off, I'm sure they won't be in any condition to go back in...
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#8

it's not just the heads though - the prolonged exposure to heat from use and the torque applied, stretch the bolts - depending on a lot of things, there is a fair chance they won't hold the same torque spec the second time around
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#9

Don't forget to remove the speed sensor before removing the flywheel.
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#10

??? i've never done that, and it's not in the instructions in the workshop manual for the 968 - maybe that's a 944 thing?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#11

Same here - I don't remember reading anything about a speed sensor in the flywheel removal procedure...
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#12

Remember there is a tight air gap between the sensor and the flywheel ring. So while removing the flywheel or installing one there is a great possibility that you CAN damage this sensor even by rocking the flywheel on the crankshaft end. Just a precaution!!!!!
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#13

i know the 944 one has been talked about a lot, but it's interesting that they don't mention that on the 968, nor did i see it or feel it any of the times i yanked my flywheel (don't get me started on how many times i've had to do this) - my guess is that it isn't really that close, because i'm generally clumsy enough to screw something up given half a chance



i'll have to look the next time i'm in there - i'm really hoping that's a long way off though - i've already had way too much fun doing clutches on this car
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#14

Yep Flash, I believe they call for a .8mm gap between the ring gear and the sensor. It seems to close for error.
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#15

interesting - like i said, i've neither ever hit it or even seen it in there - there has always been plenty of room - maybe i've just gotten lucky
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#16

Here's what this sensor looks like going into the bell housing. It would be a pain to reset it with the engine in the car. However, it does sit very close to the ring gear and one should be aware of this when removing/replacing a flywheel.
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#17

Is the sensor on top of the bellhousing? If so, I guess this means to never lift up on the flywheel when attempting to remove it, and to be similarly careful when putting it back. Given the weight of the thing, it seems like it would be fairly uncommon to break the sensor, though.
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#18

yeah - i knew where it was, i just never ran into it from the inside
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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