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Engine Oil (!) light on often, but oil level is fine?
#41

I'm pretty sure there are slopes back east. I know there are in AZ.
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#42

I'm always concerned that my parking brake which needs to be adjusted won't keep the car in place on a slope. Add that to a fear of the car mysteriously popping out of gear at the same time and well you see my slope dilemma! The track car has no parking brake which means I'm always looking at slope when taking a car on or off. Imagine living in this head?
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#43

The only slopes on the east coast are " slippery " ones . :-) ;-) Anyway, there is a reason why every instruction for measuring oil indicates the car must be on level ground , no incline whatsoever. Thus, if the car is parked on a hill for a sufficient amount of time for enough oil to move wherever it moves , it would seem the alert light is triggered and only resets back after the sender goes through a couple of " cycles " and once it determines the oil level is ok, transmits the info to the ECU. Just my guess, but I'm thinking this is perfectly normal and you have nothing to worry about .
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#44

Sounds like several of our cars exhibits this "engine oil" light when parking on a slope, slippery or dry, so i'm going to just ignore it, and curse at the light whenever it does this which requires me to cycle the engine off and on several times before heading off, just in case it ever means it....

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#45

the incline thing is true but the sender itself can also fail.  When it does, the amount by which it needs to move to trigger a "low oil" light is negligible.  That is why you then need to add a seemingly insignificant amount of oil to shut if off.  Also, it requires a certain amount of time to reset, which is why shutting the engine off an then back on doesn't help.

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#46

My oil level was a little low, topped it of to the upper mark and now will see if the light comes back on in the next day or so.  Maybe these need to be kept at the "full" level.

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#47

Previous owner of my car removed the oil level sensor.  Not sure if these are even still available as a replacement part.  I did not see any on PP.  Any issue with leaving the sensor out, and just checking the level the old fashioned way?

 

Thank you for the input.

 

Scott

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#48

Its available but very expensive
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#49

hope this saves someone some time.

The white/yellow wire coming out of the DME goes to the oil level connector.  This connector attaches to the oil level sender using a female pin bushing.     The connector is composed of 3 pieces.  All seem to be NLA now. 

 

MB part number: 007-997-61-81 rubber boot (aka grommet) replaced by 008-997-07-81 also NLA is what you see on the outside. Inside that rubber boot you have

 

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';">MB part number: 014-545-07-28 connector female pin bushing also NLA inside an snap together connector. This female pin bushing attaches to the  male output pin on the expensive oil level sender the lives inside the oil pan housing. To get to the female pin bushing this part unsnaps.

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';">to reveal the metal bushing and should have the white/yellow wire soldered to it. 

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';"> 

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';">A third part, is a friction sleeve that helps to hold this assembly onto the oil level sender.  Mine just crumbed away.  This part is also NLA. 

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';"> 

<p style="font-size:13px;font-family:'Helvetica Neue';">In my situation the white/yellow DMA wire broke away from the female pin bushing.  So I will need to resolder it onto the pin bushing.  For the third part (friction sleeve), I guess I will need to find some kind of hose and cut it short in place of the NLA part. 

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#50

Good luck with the fix. Ours is still working, but Porsche has been putting those pins connectors in their cars for a while...had a problem with one in the relay board connector in our '74 914 last year, so we understand the problem and pain.
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#51

thanks.. If my fix doesn't work, I'll just throw my hands up in the air, buy the oil sender delete cover for $20,  and tie the white/yellow sensor wire to one of the metal bolts on the cover (which I assume is grounded).  Go old school and just check the dipstick like a normal human being. 

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