[RDKeysor]

I pulled the appropriate blown fuse, replaced it, and got another blown fuse when turning on the interior light.  What had I done that might have caused this?  My passenger side window dropped with the failure of the spot welds that hold the guidance system.  I  removed the door panel, window assembly and repaired this.  My exterior temperate instrument failed years ago.  I replaced it with a battery operated Chinese version, running the wire with sensor into and through the interior wheel housing.  This didn't work because it picked up road heat.  I then learned that the original sensor was in the passenger side mirror.  Since I already had the door panel off, I removed the cover at the bottom inside of the A pillar, pulled loose the ribbed rubber housing that carries the wiring from the A pillar into the front of the passenger side door and up to the base of the mirror.  I than ran the temperature instrument wire with bulb up to the underside of the mirror.  Fearing that I would break something if I rotated the mirror forward to access the removal bolt (it resisted turning), I simply stuck the señsor up into the wiring opening at the bottom of the mirror and left it there.  I then carefully replaced the ribbed rubber tubing between the A pillar and door and called it a day.  I don't know if that had anything to do with the interior light failure, and ditto the rear compartment light.  Any way to trouble shoot this without simply blowing more fuses?  Is it likely I caused an electrical short when I installed the temperature sensor wire and bulb, meaning is there a wire involved in that wiring packet that could short the interior light?  

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[Waylander]

pulled the wire off the door switch in the a pillar

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[RDKeysor]

I'll take a look.  I assume that the door locks are working ok doesn't rule this out.  Thanks.  I'll report back.

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[RDKeysor]

Undid the screw holding the passenger side door light switch, disconnected battery, and pulled out the switch.  Yes, one electrical post switch is missing, the other pole has attached a green with brown stripe wire in a black sheath with a silver stripe.  I attempted to reach the switch area by removing the glove box, pulling back the soft material ahead of the lower part of the A pillar and located the black sheath holding the wire I described.  I tried to fish around with a small wire with a hook to capture the missing wire but haven't been able to do that.  I'm not very astute with electrical issues, but I'm guessing the absent wire is a ground.  Can I simply fit my own ground wire and attach it to a screw grounding it to the chassis?  I see an obvious place to do that above where the sheath I mention plunges down to the switch.  If that isn't a solution, any idea how i can reach the missing wire?  I think I might get to it through the port where the ribbed rubber tube goes from the A pillar into the front of the door, but I'm not anxious to do that if avoidable. In any case, I'm guessing you are dead right about the missing wire.  Thanks again.

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[Waylander]

The wire to the switch is the ground, when you open the door the switch connects the wire to earth to put the light on

 

the normal causes are interior light shorting, glove box light shorting, think the same fuse does the clock too

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[RDKeysor]

I guess I understand that.  I did find the glove box light switch crumbling into pieces when I pulled out the glove box.  I have a new one on the way and will hope it is the problem.  I can tell you that the clock has continued to function, so it's not part of the circuit.  I will be away for a while and will tackle this again upon my return and arrival of the new switch, which may have shorted out given its condition.  My wonder is why there is an unused electrical pole on the door switch if it doesn't take a connection.  Thanks again.

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[Waylander]

those switches were used on a number of cars, two poles just means space for two connectors

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[RDKeysor]

This is to confirm that the fuse for my '92 coupe still blows upon insertion.  I have reread the answers and my babble on this topic back in 2021. I had totally forgotten that I had raised this issue on the Forum and was kind of surprised to read about my now-forgotten efforts to solve that problem.  Afraid this is the kind of thing one experiences at age 87. Has anyone gained any insight into this issue since I raised and failed to solve this problem.  My fear is that my 968, my daily driver for 25 years, is experiencing a gradual disintegration of the wiring system.  I have also lost the low speed and the intermittent functions on my wipers, something I wrote about and solved many years ago.  I may post on that if I fail to put that right.

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[ds968]

This is to confirm that the fuse for my '92 coupe still blows upon insertion.  I have reread the answers and my babble on this topic back in 2021. I had totally forgotten that I had raised this issue on the Forum and was kind of surprised to read about my now-forgotten efforts to solve that problem.  Afraid this is the kind of thing one experiences at age 87. Has anyone gained any insight into this issue since I raised and failed to solve this problem.  My fear is that my 968, my daily driver for 25 years, is experiencing a gradual disintegration of the wiring system.  I have also lost the low speed and the intermittent functions on my wipers, something I wrote about and solved many years ago.  I may post on that if I fail to put that right.

All of our cars are experiencing a slow disintegration of the electrical system at this age .  And speaking of age, I am in awe and inspired by you driving this car at 87 years young !    :clap:  .  I am slowly disintegrating myself , at only 68 ( a month away from 69 ) years old .. :glare:

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