[jthomson]

So...anybody got an idea why mine won't go into blink mode? I just don't wanna take a road trip to get repairs if I don't have to.

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[flash]

i never saw confirmation that it was in fact the "check engine" light, and not the big exclamation point.

 

also, i did not see confirmation that the blink test was conducted correctly.  the description in the earlier post was not quite right.

 

To trigger the flashing code, fully depress the accelerator pedal for 3 seconds with the engine off and the ignition on until the Check-Engine lamp flashes. Then ease off the throttle.

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[jthomson]

I posted earlier when I was asked if I had a US or ROW car. 

 

<p class="" style="font-size:12px;color:rgb(164,164,164);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Posted 21 September 2017 - 09:03 AM


Sold new in Fla. I believe I'm doing it correctly. Ignition on, engine not running, depress accelerator for about 3 seconds, release. CEL flashes once then stays on. No codes. 

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[jthomson]

I meant to say after about 3 seconds the light flashes once, THEN let up on accel.

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[flash]

hmmm - try ignition off - pedal down - ignition on - release pedal

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[Bulti]

I'm probably in danger of hijacking the thread, but here goes:


No orange engine icon and no red words either. I checked the manual. It doesn't mention either option. It does say that when something goes wrong, the "!" goes on together with the corresponding system warning light. For example, "!" together with the red brake pad icon or oil pressure light etc.


So no "check engine" in any shape or form.


Took me 10+ years to figure that one out, lol.

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[jthomson]

Flash, that didn't work either, although it now flashes twice and stays on rather than once. I'm gonna look around for an article on replacing the o2 sensor since I'm pretty sure from the records I have, it's never been done. Car has over 100k miles.

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[jthomson]

After looking around, I'm sure it's not the O2 sensor as since I chipped the car I'm getting 30-31 mpg on the highway driving normally. I just really need to find an adapter that actually works for my Lemur Blue Driver. Any leads?

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

This is the way it is displayed in a US car.

 

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[flash]

i have never heard of an adaptor that works.  many have tried.  you need the durametric or the bosch hammer

 

what chip is in there?  many of them over the years have thrown codes and such

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[jthomson]

RS Barn Stage 1 in March.

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[flash]

that chip should not be causing any problems.  i have only heard of 1 time that it did weird stuff, and a change of the ECU fixed it.

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[94SilverCab]

If I recall, that 1 problem was with an early 1992. There should definitely not be any problem with a 1994.

 

Ask Pete (RSBarn)

 

Jay

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[flash]

pretty sure it was a 93, but regardless, it was a weird thing that made no sense.  the OEM chip number was the same as other late ECUs, but only the stock chip worked in it.  swapped out the ECU and all was fine.

 

that being said, it can fail in the burn process.  i have had a couple of chips that just wouldn't program right.  that's why i verified each and every one of them before shipping.

 

when a chip gets weird like that though, it usually throws the big exclamation point light, and/or the check engine light, and they stay lit.  i don't think the chip is the issue here.  one way to find out though.  swap back the OEM chip.

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[jthomson]

So, every time I use the car, which is just about every day, I always try the blink test. Tonite driving back from the grocery store after work I noticed it wasn't blinking. When I pulled into the garage I tried the blink test and lo and behold it went into blink mode! Two long blinks and five short. So I guess I'm back to normal. good thing too cause I was just about to drop $300 on a Durametric. Although now that I think about I may just get one anyway as I will not be selling the car anytime soon, if ever, and I'm fairly sure I could use it down the line. Thanks, everyone. I always learn so much here, even the tangents that get taken are informative as well! 

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