[mpiazzola]

File this one under non life threatening. Passenger window went down fine in a few stages, quarter, half, then full with stops in between but would not go back up at any stop point. I pulled relay 7 and the fuse and re-inserted with ignition off then re-started - no dice. Window won't respond to either switch on driver's or pass door. Change the relay for the heck of it or tear the door down and replace the motor?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jaap]

I had the same thing happen to me. It actually happened when I had the passenger window slightly open when it started to rain and the window would not go up but went down each time I tried the switches ending up in a fully open window which was no fun as the rain kept on getting in. Turned out to be the window door switch.In my case it was the switch on the driver side (used to open the passenger side). They are somehow connected in series. I used a multimeter to check conductiviy and was able to open the switch and use really fine sand paper to remove some of the residue on the metal contacts inside. Be carefull when opening the swicth because there are springs and roller balls inside.



Jaap

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mpiazzola]

Jaap, thanks, that's the place to start!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

the other spot is the multi-pin connector midstream from the door to the harness.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jfrahm]

These switches can be taken apart and the contacts refreshed. Make sure you clean the middle contacts and the rocker part. These contacts burn a little during normal operation and some 800-1500 grit sorts them out. As indicated, both switches may need to be addressed for the passenger side.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mpiazzola]

Took your advice, got it done. Thanks for the assist.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Byte]

Had the same issue, fixed now!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

Looks like I'm in for this. After a flawless trip to Southern Utah last week, my passenger window went down today but won't come back up. Don't know if it's just one direction as I rolled it down all at once.

Can someone who's fond this tell me, will the switch come out without pulling the door panel off? Or does it need to come off. If so, I'll wait until I have a little more time because I need to suns out what's happening with the door handle as well.

the other spot is the multi-pin connector midstream from the door to the harness.

where is that connector located?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

[quote name="napa968" post="142640" timestamp="1368300301"]

Took your advice, got it done. Thanks for the assist.[/quote]  

Had the same issue, fixed now!

Add me to the list. I first tried some contact cleaner and excercising he switches to no avail so I tore into the passenger side switch. I ordered one today so I figured what do I have to lose?


I second what JAAP said, be cautious and have a clean work area when you do this. A few (8) little bits inside that can go flying.


Contrary to my assumption/expectations it was the passenger side switch that was NFG. Taking it apart and cleaning all the 25 year old gunk and grease with contact cleaner and reassembling was all it took. When I have the safety of a spare switch I'm going to tear apart the other two switches and clean them as well as I'm now convinced that the passenger side window is operating 10% faster the the driver's side.




FWIW, I'd suggest to anyone who doesn't have one get one of these:

   


It's about $20 IIRC and I use it just about everytime I R&R an electrical connection.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

A couple of weeks ago my driver's side window ( in the weekender 968 ) acted up in the same manner ; down function was ok, but the up function was intermittent ; it would either not go up at all, or go up only partially . Eventually, after about five or six attempts it did close all the way. So I thought it's most likely the switch contacts , but did not entirely discount the possibility of a failing lift lever mechanism or cable or some other component of the assembly . Anyway, I left that project for another day and forgot about it until yesterday when I needed to transfer something out of that car and suddenly remembered the problem. But yesterday "the problem" simply refused to cooperate ; I must have opened and closed that window more than a dozen times, and it worked perfectly fine each time ! Puzzling . Not complaining, lol, but wth ?,

The only difference ( between the day when the problem happened and yesterday ) of which I can think is this : I was driving in a very heavy morning fog drizzle when the window problem happened , as opposed to the dry condition yesterday . So maybe moisture interfered with the switch or something else in the mechanism causing the window's lift function to act up ...but not the down function ?

Does that make any sense ?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

these motors are grossly underpowered for the window they have to push.  the tracks get grimey, and the connections get dirty.  all of this adds up to resistance.  you need to periodically shoot silicone down the guide tracks, and clean the contacts on the switches.

 

also, you will notice that the window goes up MUCH more easily with the engine running than without

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Grandpa#3]

Windows that do not function as they should, 9 out of 10, is a faulty switch. Clarks tells us how to trouble shoot them and how to clean the contacts. Be super careful when taking the switch apart for flying springs and tiny ball bearings.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-20.htm

Cheers,
Larry

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

these motors are grossly underpowered for the window they have to push.

 you could've spent some time designing a mini-SC for that !!  :lol:

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[az968]

So I've taken the bad switch apart and sanded down the coorosion so nice and clean. But I can not get it reassembled. The little pieces keep falling off when I try to put the back onto the switch housing. Anyone have any tips on doing this?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MCL968]

Never did a 968 switch, but on similar ones I used grease to hold the parts in place while I snapped it back together.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[az968]

don't see any signs of grease or anything else in the original part, how did they do that?  i was thinking maybe light grease or spot of glue and working the switch so it wouldn't set up.New switch is around $75 and i think i need to fix 2 of them so i'd really like to try fixing the originals.

 

I've also seen aftermarket switches for around $20 but a little wary of them.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Ryan]

I purchased a three pack of aftermarket switches off fleabay for cheap because I had the same problem. Not only did it fix the non-up problem, but the speed of the window was faster. Don't mess with fixing them yourself when the cheap switches work just fine. You do not need to remove the door card to change them. The three pack enables you to replace all window units for a like new window experience...woo-hoo.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[az968]

Ordered a pack of three aftermarket switches for $36 vs dealer OEM $80 ea from ebay.  Yeah, not worth the frustration of getting all the little pieces back in place, if these work.  We'll see how they look and work when they get here end of next week. They don't have to last 25 years like the originals cause I won't last that long.

 

Right, only had to remove the little plastic trim piece around the switches. I have a set of "one-touch" relays that I haven't had time to install yet, guess I can throw them in now.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[az968]

So i was able to reassemble the one switch following Matt's suggestion and used light grease to hold two little ball bearing pivots in place while re-assembling.  So I then did the driver's side passenger switch, The ball bearings stayed in place on that switch so I didn't need the grease on that one.  Actually quite simple to clean all the contacts and both switches work fine now.  Didn't bother with the passenger door switch, it doesn't get used nearly as much and it works fine anyway. I guess I'll keep the aftermarket switches in case my rebuild ones ever fail again.  Just felt better having the OEM switches. Now to celebrate a successful major repair project   

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.