[GDS968]

OK, problem across the pond. The doors on my sport make a clicking sound when opening and have managed to track it down to the door check strap bolts/plates. On both sides the bolts are spinning in their respective holes and I can not remove them!



There is access to the bottom nut from a small hole inside the car but there is no way to get to the top nut. I have contacted an OPC to get an idea of the cost etc which is ranging from $350 to $1200 depending on if they can drill an access hole in the chassis behind the door or have to replace the pillars complete.



Any one had this problem and got round it! (Someone over here recommended using rivnuts but they are really only suitable for sheet metal).

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[sp4149]

[quote name='GDS968' date='Apr 25 2006, 12:53 AM']OK, problem across the pond.  The doors on my sport make a clicking sound when opening and have managed to track it down to the door check strap bolts/plates. On both sides the bolts are spinning in their respective holes and I can not remove them!



There is access to the bottom nut from a small hole inside the car but there is no way to get to the top nut. I have contacted an OPC to get an idea of the cost etc which is ranging from $350 to $1200 depending on if they can drill an access hole in the chassis behind the door or have to replace the pillars complete.



Any one had this problem and got round it! (Someone over here recommended using rivnuts but they are really only suitable for sheet metal).

[right][post="19750"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



HI,

I used NutSerts (rivnuts) to replaced the lower nut on the driver's side. I couldn't find any access to either nut on our 95 Cab and the material isn't thick enough to thread, the reason for the nuts welded on the back. This is the type of application to use rivnuts as the material is the thickness of sheet metal. My concern was the holding power of the rivnut, so far it has stayed tight.

I considered epoxy using pop-rivets to clamp the plate in place on the door frame. Rivnuts were a better solution.

-sp4149

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[GDS968]

[quote name='sp4149' date='Apr 25 2006, 01:29 PM']HI,

I used NutSerts (rivnuts) to replaced the lower nut on the driver's side.  I couldn't find any access to either nut on our 95 Cab and the material isn't thick enough to thread, the reason for the nuts welded on the back.  This is the type of application to use rivnuts as the material is the thickness of sheet metal.  My concern was the holding power of the rivnut, so far it has stayed tight.

  I considered epoxy using pop-rivets to clamp the plate in place on the door frame.  Rivnuts were a better solution.

  -sp4149

[right][post="19752"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



SP



Thanks for the info, I know this is a lot to ask but do you know what the length of the rivnut you used was in its uncompressed format? I have some here but not sure if they are long enough etc Did you drill the hole out and was the old captive nut left on the back or did you manage to remove it?



Gary.

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[sp4149]

[quote name='GDS968' date='Apr 25 2006, 06:38 AM']SP



Thanks for the info, I know this is a lot to ask but do you know what the length of the rivnut you used was in its uncompressed format? I have some here but not sure if they are long enough etc Did you drill the hole out and was the old captive nut left on the back or did you manage to remove it?



Gary.

[right][post="19753"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Gary,

Yes I had to drill out the hole. The original nut just fell down into the pillar when the screw was removed, if it is spinning it is no longer attached. I think the choice I had was in thread size, there is plenty of room for longer threads and longer rivnuts. The important thing is to match the thread for the strongest grip. When you get the screw out you can match the threads, I think they were 6mm but I could be wrong.

-sp4149

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