[spin]

My check engine light went on yesterday and I did the test with the accelerator pedal and it's saying it's knock sensor 2. I seems like there is a crack on the bus that's connected to the knock sensor. I tried to reset the check engine light by pressing the accelerator for 11 seconds but it doesn't reset it. Is this something that needs repair right away? I just would like to be able to reset the check engine light for now but I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any opinions? Thank you

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[flash]

if the sensor is bad, you won't be able to reset the light

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[RS Barn]

You could disconnect battery for a bit and then restart to see if code comes back and it most likely will.This will also confirm bad sensor. This is starting to be a common electrical failure . The pisiatic crystal cracks. The downside of this test is losing radio presets ect.

BTW- when replacing knock sensor you must also replace the bolt that holds it into the block. It has a special sealant to transmit perceived vibrations to k sensor

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[spin]

the light turned off on its own so I'm just going to leave it as it is for now.

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[RS Barn]

It could have been a perceived fault. ECU will record this and monitor. Hopefully it was just a glitch...

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[jg968]

I had the check engine light come on last night. When I got to my son's house we ran the blink test and it said 3-1 which is knock sensor 1. I reset it then drove it some more. It stayed dark for about 10 minutes and then it came on again. It later went off on its own and came back on.



This morning I cleaned both contacts with contact cleaner and drove it again today. No check engine light. Hmmm.



Can anyone tell me if knock sensor 1 is the one closest to the firewall or radiator? The one nearest the firewall had more oil seepage around it and actually left deposits on the Qtip I was using to clean with.

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[Remotecontroller]

Howdy Folks,



I have a Knock Sensor 2 error triggering my check engine light and can't seem to find anything that shows where this sensor is located on the block (just that it is a PIA to change)- can someone direct me to a diagram or something for where it is? Any special instructions other than to get a new bolt along with it?



Thanks!!

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[Lear35A]

This may help. They're easier to see without the head and intake manifold in the way. The front knock sensor (#1?) is the one on the side of the block with the black electrical connector. The rear knock sensor (#2?) can just be seen at the back of the picture.

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[Remotecontroller]

Perfect!! Thanks so much for your help!! Is there anything I should do to test the sensor or should I just get a new one? It is ok to drive until I get the part (I read that the timing is retarded when you get this error code to protect the motor from detonation issues)?



Can anyone confirm that the #2 Sensor is the one closest to the firewall?



thanks again!!

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[BeBe]

I'm planning to replace my #2 knock sensor. Can I reuse the bolt? The workshop manual says to reinstall with a new bolt and then has a parenthetical "micro-sealed". Do I need to order a new "special" bolt, or is the micro-sealing something I can buy locally (loctite?) to use with the old bolt?

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[Lear35A]

It is a special bolt and washer. I recommend a new one while you're in there. I'm guessing that will be a rather minor cost compared to the sensor itself.

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[BeBe]

I called Sunset to get a new bolt, which they have. When I asked about the micro-sealant, they knew nothing about it. Does anyone know what the micro-sealant is? I thought maybe it would come with the bolt, but no such luck.



What happens if I replace the bolt/sensor without sealant?

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[Lear35A]

There is no washer (I misspoke before). If you have the correct bolt and you torque it properly at 15 ftlb, you are ready to go.

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[BeBe]

Any idea what the "micro-sealed" in the Workshop Manual means when referring to the bolt? I don't want to add any new variables into my check engine light troubleshooting.

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[flash]

it's probably a sealant for threads. this would help eliminate extraneous vibrations which would falsely trigger the sensor. it's just a piezo mic. it's very sensitive to a specific frequency (usually between 5k and 6k)

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[banditsc]

From what I recall the special bolt has that stuff already on it.

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[Lear35A]

Yes, it's blue. Looks like Loctite when you take the bolt out. Out of curiosity, what is Sunset charging for the bolt?

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[tamathumper]

Someone on that other list, who claimed to have done hundreds of knock sensors, said it was basically blue LocTite, but I can't vouch for that one way or the other.

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[BeBe]

$2.53 (plus shipping). I ordered one just now. I'll see if it looks special when I get it.

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[BeBe]

I posted pictures once, but seem to have forgotten how. Maybe this will work...





[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2398]


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I got the "special" bolt I ordered. Doesn't look all that special (vs. re-using the old one).



I do have a question regarding the hose that runs parallel with the block at the height of the #2 knock sensor (to the right of the bolt head -- if the picture looking down through the manifold works). I would like to disconnect the hose to give me better access to the bolt holding the knock sensor. Is that a vacuum hose, or does it have a fluid in it?



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