Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

HELP - Coolant Explosion - all fluid gone on the ground...
#21

[quote name='xrad' post='65151' date='Jan 5 2009, 06:15 PM']Hmmm...should you get the metal or plastic version heater valve???[/quote]

Just finished replacing the HCV with the OEM part... was a pain in 30 degrees and snow on the ground! I ended up removing the old HCV with the connecting hoses as they had worm-driven clamps and then installed the new HCV outside the engine bay (on the ground <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ). When re-installing everything, including the Oil Filter, it seems as though the filter, the HCV, and the hose that goes to the Heater Core are closer than before...



Anyway, next step is how to best bleed the air out the system? I have filled it back up with coolant (yay, no leaks!), and rented the Pressure Tester from Autozone, but quite frankly I don't know how to use the thing...



I have read the suggest method of bleeding the air, seen attached, but I have also heard that using the Pressure Tester helps... any suggestions?





P.S. Is the "heater lever" just the HVAC heater? Confused... (obviously)



Thanks again!
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#22

pack some rags around beneath and around bleed screw to catch fluid



get the engine fully warmed up (at LEAST the 8 o'clock line)



turn the heater temp knob to full hot



turn fan on full



crack bleed screw loose to allow air out and remain there until only fluid comes out



repeat 3 or 4 times



top off tank to nearly "max when hot" line



remove rags
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#23

just to add...

I used a mityvac to open the HCV and found a cup that fit under bleed port. I also made a point to raise the front of the car to facilitate faster bleeding.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#24

clever
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#25

[quote name='flash' post='65818' date='Jan 19 2009, 05:45 PM']pack some rags around beneath and around bleed screw to catch fluid



get the engine fully warmed up (at LEAST the 8 o'clock line)



turn the heater temp knob to full hot



turn fan on full



crack bleed screw loose to allow air out and remain there until only fluid comes out



repeat 3 or 4 times



top off tank to nearly "max when hot" line



remove rags[/quote]

OK, did the above procedure, and let the bleed screw open with the Heater on full until only coolant came out (was very bubbly still though...). Problem is, now the water temp fluctuates greatly from above half mark when sitting yet settles back down when driving. Hot air works fine BTW.



What gives?



Thanks
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#26

now i would look into the fans - they are 2 speed, coming on determined by the temp, and controlled by the fan switch mounted in the radiator
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#27

[quote name='flash' post='65889' date='Jan 20 2009, 06:31 PM']now i would look into the fans - they are 2 speed, coming on determined by the temp, and controlled by the fan switch mounted in the radiator[/quote]

I hope it is not the fans... but I did bleed the system a number of times more, and there did not seem to be any more bubbles in the coolant that was coming out of the bleeder screw. Went for a drive and the same temperature fluctuations were happening... The car would literally get to the third hash, above half way on the water temp gauge when at rest, and then go back down to nearly cold, below the second hash when driving at highway speed... this seems extremely odd to me, especially because nothing like this ever occurred before.



I think I may have not installed the HCV correctly and the small vacuum hose is not in completely connected thus creating no suction. When I change from Hot to Cold on the HVAC, and turn the fans on and off, the Valve does not move, although I can manually push the arm on the HCV up.



Could that be the problem, simply the vacuum hose being installed improperly?



Thanks... something that seemed so simple is turning out to be difficult... but what is new?



Good news was that I did get the nerve to finally wash the car in 30 degree weather!



Thanks again everyone!
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#28

that would not account for the fluctuations, but it would account for the failure to have the valve operating



verify that both of your fans come on at both speeds
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread / Author Replies Views Last Post
Last Post by ds968
08-26-2021, 12:56 AM
Last Post by MLB
05-15-2016, 12:34 AM
Last Post by Swin
08-11-2014, 06:27 PM

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)