[glenncal1]

Hello all- I have a chance to get a set of 17" wheels and tires from a 2001 Boxster S pretty cheap. The sizes are 7x17 et55 and 8.5x17 et50, tires are 205/40 in the front and 255/40 in the rear (have to verify those), any problems fitting to the 968? Seems like they should fit ok.



Moderator-please feel free to delete this dupe post

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[Anchorman]

Fit should be fine.

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[JWahlsten]

The only problem people have had with Boxster wheels is the hub area. The M030 hubs will not fit with out spacers, or some machining in that area.



I don't know if the regular hubs have this problem, but I'd check before buying.

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[Dave]

If they're the standard Boxster "twists", I had the exact same ones up until a month ago. I used them for snows and they fit fine on my non-M030 car.

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[glenncal1]

Dave-see photo on other post

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[BBZ 968]

I have 17 in. Boxter Sport Classic wheels fitted with the same sizes and off-sets but my Eagle F1 Tyres GDS-3 are 225/45 ZR17 ( 91Y ) fronts and 255/40 ZR17 ( 94Y ) rears.

They fit and run fine and also look great.....much better looking than the standard cups <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

( Thats my opinion anyway ) .

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[rhudeboye]

[quote name='BBZ 968' post='35501' date='May 14 2007, 12:33 PM']I have 17 in. Boxter Sport Classic wheels fitted with the same sizes and off-sets but my Eagle F1 Tyres GDS-3 are 225/45 ZR17 ( 91Y ) fronts and 255/40 ZR17 ( 94Y ) rears.

They fit and run fine and also look great.....much better looking than the standard cups <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

( Thats my opinion anyway ) .[/quote]



could I get a pic of that plz?

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[JWahlsten]

The sport classics and the standard Boxster twists are different than the Boxster S twists. The way I understand it, these :     are a tough fit, and these:     fit easily. I do know of some cars with rubbing issues on the rear with the 996/Boxster twists...

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[Dave]

Yup, I had the latter picture above. They were fine.

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[BBZ 968]

[quote name='rhudeboye' post='35504' date='May 14 2007, 11:17 PM']could I get a pic of that plz?[/quote]

Hi...If you go to [url=http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j260/Porsche968Gallery/?start=all url] you will find lots of UK 968's. Images no.54 and 55 towards the bottom of the page show my car's Sport Classic wheels .



Cheers Shaun. ( BBZ 968 )

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[BBZ 968]

[quote name='BBZ 968' post='35530' date='May 15 2007, 09:43 PM']Hi...If you go to [url=http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j260/Porsche968Gallery/?start=all url] you will find lots of UK 968's. Images no.54 and 55 towards the bottom of the page show my car's Sport Classic wheels .



Cheers Shaun. ( BBZ 968 )[/quote]

To confirm the above...start......http:......etc.....................finish.......=all



hope it works <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[glenncal1]

[quote name='JWahlsten' post='35505' date='May 14 2007, 04:44 PM']The sport classics and the standard Boxster twists are different than the Boxster S twists. The way I understand it, these : are a tough fit, and these: fit easily. I do know of some cars with rubbing issues on the rear with the 996/Boxster twists...[/quote]





The one I would be looking at are like the first set, the Boxster S wheels. Do they have problems with fender clearance or hub fit? Or both? Thanks

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[JWahlsten]

Problems in the hub area. The offset is fine. Guys have used them with spacers, but that brings it's own set of problems. Great looking wheels...

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[Tom in Austin]

Nice thing about these Boxster wheels is they are 6.5"/8.0" front/rear, which is the 1.5" differential Porsche used for 968 17s (7.5"/9.0").



The other common solution is 911 wheels. These were typically 7.0"/9.0", a 2.0" differential which takes away some of the front grip and changes the car's dynamics slightly.



If I hadn't already bought 996 wheels I would definitely go for the Boxster S types to best preserve the car's inherent balance. Also, to my tastes anyway, 9" rears ride pretty harshly. Haven't tried this to verify, but I suspect 8s would be a little easier in the ride department.



Finally, I think the offsets must be similar enough that the Boxster wheels couldn't cause fender rub or other interference problems. After all, they're at least an inch smaller than the OEM widths ...

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[Sho968]

Got this 996 wheel, but fronts have hub clearance problem on my 968 cab.







Wheel Dynamics says 996/Boxter & newer wheels generally will interfere with front hub bearing housing/dust cap, and I tend to agree.



http://wheeldynamics.net/appguide.html



My measurement shows that the wheels need 25mm (or more) deep recess to clear front hub bearing housing dust cap, measured from wheel mating surface. The new wheels have only 19mm deep recess,

and has 5 to 6mm gap when temporarily mounted.



So I will need wheel spacers for fronts. Rears are fine.

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[Tom in Austin]

Right, typically newer wheels require 5 - 7 MM front spacers to clear the hubs on a 968. Standard studs are long enough to still provide minimum full turns of the nuts with up to a 7 MM spacer.



Rears go on just fine as they are.



Offsets aren't that much different. There are different measuring methods, but the simplest is the "ET" number cast into the wheel. This is indicative of how 'centered' the wheel is relative to the hub. For example, IIRC, the front 17 x 7.5 inch wheels that were optional on 968s were ET = 55 mm. If you put on a 996 17 x 7 inch wheel like I did, with a 7 mm spacer, then your ET is 50 mm (marked on the 996 wheel) plus 7 mm = 57 mm. End result is the centerline of the 996 wheel is now 2 mm different that than the OE wheel, not a large difference.

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[flash]

while everyone knows i hate spacers with a passion, and feel they are dangerous, if you have to use them, and don't change the studs to longer ones to make up for the lost threads, i do highly recommend that at least you use steel lugnuts

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[rustech]

[quote name='Tom in Austin' post='36506' date='Jun 6 2007, 07:44 AM']Right, typically newer wheels require 5 - 7 MM front spacers to clear the hubs on a 968. Standard studs are long enough to still provide minimum full turns of the nuts with up to a 7 MM spacer.



Rears go on just fine as they are.



Offsets aren't that much different. There are different measuring methods, but the simplest is the "ET" number cast into the wheel. This is indicative of how 'centered' the wheel is relative to the hub. For example, IIRC, the front 17 x 7.5 inch wheels that were optional on 968s were ET = 55 mm. If you put on a 996 17 x 7 inch wheel like I did, with a 7 mm spacer, then your ET is 50 mm (marked on the 996 wheel) plus 7 mm = 57 mm. End result is the centerline of the 996 wheel is now 2 mm different that than the OE wheel, not a large difference.[/quote]



Actually, you have subtract the spacer thickness from the ET to get the updated offset. 50 minus 7 would be 43ET on that rim. The higher the number, the more "pushed in" the wheel will be, the lower, the more "pushed out" it will be.

while everyone knows i hate spacers with a passion, and feel they are dangerous, if you have to use them, and don't change the studs to longer ones to make up for the lost threads, i do highly recommend that at least you use steel lugnuts

As long as the threads get full engagement, then there is no more you can ask for. With a 7mm spacer, all the threads should still be used in the lug nuts. All they have to do is count the threads nut vs. stud.



One more note is that not ALL newer porshe wheels require spacers in the front. If you are lucky enough to find an 8" front wheel (off of a C4 or GT3), then no spacer is required. My Sport Classic II's fit on the front without spacers.

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[flash]

i know i don't have an extra 7mm of threads, so i can't do it - if i did, i'd bottom out on the lug nuts



it's not quite so simple as counting threads either - you also have to take into account the thickness of the hub of the wheel, and the thickness of the spacer - then you can count how many threads extend past that to determine whether or not they still will be fully engaging every thread in the lug nut - also consider that the first thread of each is usually worn a bit, so it will not make full torque, and should not be counted



that is why i recommend steel lug nuts - aluminum ones aren't as safe to begin with (hence why they are not allowed in most classes of racing - some classes even require longer studs and deeper nuts)

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[rustech]

[quote name='flash' post='36514' date='Jun 6 2007, 10:19 AM']i know i don't have an extra 7mm of threads, so i can't do it - if i did, i'd bottom out on the lug nuts



it's not quite so simple as counting threads either - you also have to take into account the thickness of the hub of the wheel, and the thickness of the spacer - then you can count how many threads extend past that to determine whether or not they still will be fully engaging every thread in the lug nut - also consider that the first thread of each is usually worn a bit, so it will not make full torque, and should not be counted



that is why i recommend steel lug nuts - aluminum ones aren't as safe to begin with (hence why they are not allowed in most classes of racing - some classes even require longer studs and deeper nuts)[/quote]



Perhaps you didn't understand or I didn't say it right. When I mentioned counting the threads, I was implying what is left once the wheel is mounted. Also, a simple caliper measurement of the remaining stud vs the thread depth will determine whether full engagement is accomplished. I also run and recommend steel lug nuts, esp when using spacers and less threads are used.



BTW, I measured an OEM Aluminum Lug-nut. The threads are ~790 thous, the entire depth is 1 inch 150 thous for a difference of 360 thous which is = to 9.144 mm, so no, you wouldn't bottom out.

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