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Variocam tenstioner
#1

Got my car back from the shop after having the clutch hydraulics and hose replaces, new shocks, and new front tires.



First off, they didn't do anything with the variocam because of the potential of it turning into a huge expensive job. Basically the mechanic told me the belts will need to come off, the cams, etc, which is fine. Since the belts and cams are off they can go in there and redo the front seals to stop the oil. While they're fixing the front, they might as well fix the rear too: replace the clutch to stop the oil from coming out the rear. However, he also said that if they need to replace the variocam tensioner, it will basically double the cost of that particular trip to the shop. The part weighs in at something like $1500 + labour.



My question is, do those things fail often? Is it wise to replace everything right then and there? Or can I keep using the old tensioner and save myself a lot of money. Maybe get it refurbished?



Anyways, they did replace the clutch hydraulics (no break lines because they're on back order, doh!) The clutch pedal feels SO much better; there is no play at the top, and smooth constant pressure through the entire range of travel. The mechanic said there was a slight leak in the boot of the slave (I think), and everything looked pretty old. So I'm happy I got it replaced, who knows how long it would have lasted. Next up, the clutch! (see above <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Finally, the new suspension makes the car feel a lot smoother, and more responsive. Its not as jarring going over bumps. Up front I have Koni strut inserts (86411414sport is the part number on the bill) and stock springs, and in the back I have another set of Konies (80401035sport). The car definitely drives better, they're set at a medium setting. Are these height adjustable? I wouldn't mind lowering the car just a bit. Maybe stiffening it up while I'm at it. Hey Flash, got any spare springs left? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



In the meantime, its time to start saving and order that RSBarn flywheel and clutch kit, and get this engine to how its suppose to be: leak free, and worry free <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Overall this trip cost me $900 in parts, $2000 in labour, and $400 in taxes. Yikes, these are some hefty green fees.



Edit: I should add that he was pretty impressed with the SS clutch hose <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#2

lol - yeah - still have some left - they are all on the stiff side though



unless you got the 8012 (i think that's the right number)or the now discontinued ones that paragon used to carry, the koni shocks are not height adjustable



this severely limits how stiff you can go in the front
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

It's doubtful you would need to change the tensioner. Changing the chain and tensioner pads would be wise if you are in there. Those are relatively cheap parts.

http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/...05.201.rail.htm
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#4

How many miles are on your 968? If its more than 60k its deffinetly time for tensioner pads and a new chain. If you keep them on longer than that you run the risk of wearing out the teeth on your cams and that is costly to fix. Front seals are a good idea because it only takes and extra 30 minutes to take the back half of the front cover off when the belts are off, as for the rear......is your pan gasket leaking or is it something else? If your pan is leaking it would be wise to change your motor mounts at the same time because you have to drop the cross member.
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#5

[quote name='968workaholic' post='34386' date='Apr 19 2007, 07:06 PM']How many miles are on your 968? If its more than 60k its deffinetly time for tensioner pads and a new chain. If you keep them on longer than that you run the risk of wearing out the teeth on your cams and that is costly to fix.[/quote]



Not necessarily. I replaced mine at about 85K, thinking, from all the horror stories I had read, that I was on borrowed time. The pads looked BRAND NEW, the chain was in pefect condition, and there wasn't a trace of wear on the cam sprockets. A total waste of about $600. The moral to this is that there is a huge amount of variability to the degree these parts wear, so I would highly recommend doing an inspection of the parts before blindly replacing them like I did. There's a great description of how to do the inspection that I posted on a similar thread. Live and learn...
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#6

[quote name='Cloud9...68' post='34388' date='Apr 19 2007, 08:20 PM']Not necessarily. I replaced mine at about 85K, thinking, from all the horror stories I had read, that I was on borrowed time. The pads looked BRAND NEW, the chain was in pefect condition, and there wasn't a trace of wear on the cam sprockets.[/quote]

I would consider myself lucky if i were you. It is true that a through inspection is a good idea before changing anything. But the only question i have for Cloud9...68 is if you remeber whether or not the chain had two off color links in it, and if the of tensioner pads were a darker color than the new ones. If they weren't then they were replaced at some point.
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#7

I'm just passed 150k miles on the original pads and chain. I've been carrying the new pads and chain in my parts bin for the last two years but inspections have shown the replacement not to have been needed. That said, it's likely that sometime this summer I'll have the work done because - at some point it will be needed, and I don't want to go too far down the "borrowed time" path.
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#8

[quote name='968workaholic' post='34390' date='Apr 19 2007, 07:49 PM']I would consider myself lucky if i were you. It is true that a through inspection is a good idea before changing anything. But the only question i have for Cloud9...68 is if you remeber whether or not the chain had two off color links in it, and if the of tensioner pads were a darker color than the new ones. If they weren't then they were replaced at some point.[/quote]



I'm afraid I don't remember whether the chain had two off color links in it - I replaced the components 2-1/2 years ago. Nor do I remember the color of the pads relative to the new ones, though I seem to remember that they looked pretty much identical. From their appearance, I would have sworn the were put in a week before I did my job, but the previous owner had very good maintenance records on the car, including the belt replacement that was done at 75K, and there was no indication that the variocam pands and chain had ever been replaced. Mine and Anchorman's experience, in contrast to those whose components self-destructed at 40K, just speaks to the incredible amount of variability to the life of these parts. Again, I would not assume anything one way or the other, and I would do the inspection. It sounds from the description that it's possible to get a very good look at the condition of the pads.
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#9

My car is just under 130K, and I can't find any record of the variocam being serviced, so I assume its all original. The reason why it wasn't serviced this time was because of all the safety maintenance on the suspension and tires (Bulk of parts and labour cost). Maybe sometime in May or June I'll go and get them to do everything else, but I just don't want to spend money on a new Variocam tensioner if I don't have to. Because as mentioned, it alone will likely double the cost of the repair.



I have the pads and chain riding along in a box in the trunk <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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